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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

sswilson

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Alright, now I remember why I was having trouble with the L bracket design. In order to get screw clearance to the X carriage, I need to have the hotend mounted in a way that brings down the carriage plate 3mm to the bed. Is there any reason why this would not be desirable ?
I cant really think of any reason why its not a good idea... am I missing something? If its too close I could shim the top of the hot end to bring it down, but then I would need to buy longer screws...

View attachment 29341

The only thing that comes to mind would be to ensure that it won't affect your "touch" sensor mount. That requires a certain amount of clearance.

My overnight print went well.... 230 mm wide on a 235 mm wide print bed is cutting it awfully close... :) Managed to print off a 230 X 135 mm flat base without any curling at the corner(s). Not sure if that was due to finally getting the bullseye installed, or 3.0Charlie's advice about slowing/stopping the part cooling fan (I had it set to 50% which doesn't kick in until several layers in).
 

danmitch1

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The only thing that comes to mind would be to ensure that it won't affect your "touch" sensor mount. That requires a certain amount of clearance.

My overnight print went well.... 230 mm wide on a 235 mm wide print bed is cutting it awfully close... :) Managed to print off a 230 X 135 mm flat base without any curling at the corner(s). Not sure if that was due to finally getting the bullseye installed, or 3.0Charlie's advice about slowing/stopping the part cooling fan (I had it set to 50% which doesn't kick in until several layers in).

Aha, didnt think of that! But I could design the 3d touch mount to hold it at the appropriate distance, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Yeah, I read somewhere that better part cooling helps keep down warping but thats with PLA I believe. Ive been printing with PETG lately and they say no cooling is best. Not sure then at that point what the cure would be for curling edges.. I guess better bed adhesion, hotter bed temp?

Whats the large print for, pray tell?
 

sswilson

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Aha, didnt think of that! But I could design the 3d touch mount to hold it at the appropriate distance, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Yeah, I read somewhere that better part cooling helps keep down warping but thats with PLA I believe. Ive been printing with PETG lately and they say no cooling is best. Not sure then at that point what the cure would be for curling edges.. I guess better bed adhesion, hotter bed temp?

Whats the large print for, pray tell?

It's a side corner plate / palm rest for the wooden pinball controller I'm making. Next up is a few front plates to simulate a pinball lockdown bar for the front, and then some front plates that'll incorporate the buttons but I'm hoping to incorporate the button function text(s) into those as well as possibly make up a fake coin slot.


Nothing fancy, it's essentially an elongated 3 sided calibration cube. I do believe however that I managed to successfully use the mirror function to adapt the initial model to the opposite side.

As far as warping goes... yeah, aside from mucking about with the fan speeds the other options are mostly about improving bed adhesion, but the bigger your print gets (print surface area), the more likely you're going get higher layers pulling slightly upwards on your corners.
 

lcdguy

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PLA benefits from cooling, Pet-g can be cooled but the max i ever run a cooling fan is 50%. normally in the 35-50% range, and no cooling for the first 3 layers.
 

danmitch1

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possibly make up a fake coin slot.
Make it at least lead to a piggy bank lol! your tinkercad link isnt working.

@lcdguy Oh ok, I thought you shouldnt use it at all.. maybe thats why my infill is printing like shit.. I had slowed it down to try and fix it.

So here is V2 of my dragon mount, not sure if its over kill lol... now just to figure out how to mount the bmg extruder to it. Speaking of the BMG extruder.. I do believe I need more parts than included with the kit I bought seen here . I think im missing m3 threaded inserts and some super long m3 screws m3 30?

v2.png
 

sswilson

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Make it at least lead to a piggy bank lol! your tinkercad link isnt working.

@lcdguy Oh ok, I thought you shouldnt use it at all.. maybe thats why my infill is printing like shit.. I had slowed it down to try and fix it.

So here is V2 of my dragon mount, not sure if its over kill lol... now just to figure out how to mount the bmg extruder to it. Speaking of the BMG extruder.. I do believe I need more parts than included with the kit I bought seen here . I think im missing m3 threaded inserts and some super long m3 screws m3 30?

View attachment 29342

So, do you print any of these off during the design phase, or do you normally get the final design on paper first and then print?

It takes up a bit of filament, but one of the things I like the most is the ability to make a physical copy in order to see how it fits and then adjust from there... hell... it's not uncommon for me to be halfway through a print when I decide on a slight tweak to the design....

I don't imagine that would be a popular thing in a prototype lab, but it's not excessively expensive (outside of time) and helps my thought process when I'm spit-balling an idea.
 

danmitch1

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So, do you print any of these off during the design phase, or do you normally get the final design on paper first and then print?

It takes up a bit of filament, but one of the things I like the most is the ability to make a physical copy in order to see how it fits and then adjust from there... hell... it's not uncommon for me to be halfway through a print when I decide on a slight tweak to the design....

I don't imagine that would be a popular thing in a prototype lab, but it's not excessively expensive (outside of time) and helps my thought process when I'm spit-balling an idea.
I test print cutout sections that im afraid wont fit together or to check screw hole placement.
Having a virtual workspace helps alot though. Most of my planning goes on there. But i do agree, having a part physically in front of you does help. Im just realllly cheap lol.

Edit: I do draw out ideas first on paper or on my tablet.
 

danmitch1

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I think im onto something here. Only issue is the tool clearance for the hotend, ill have to sacrifice an Allen wrench and chop off a half inch off the short end.

v3 1.pngv3 2.pngv3 3.png
 

sswilson

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It'll probably take a while to populate on thingiverse, and it's done on tinkercad so it's a bit crude (+ wayyyyyy overbuilt) but it is what it is....



Haven't printed it up yet so I'm not even completely sure it'll work for what I want, but if it does work, I suspect it'll be yet another legacy product that'll still be clogging up the landfills long after we're gone..... :)
 
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