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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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If its glass, it won't. Even on a normal sized bed when using glass, the edges will be 5-10s cooler than the center.
This just made me think, the setting for borosilicate bed in marlin does what exactly? I guess it compensates for the extra time needed to reach your temp.
 

sswilson

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@danmitch1

While I'm thinking about it, how is the 3D Touch unit you bought working out? Was it a direct drop-in replacement for a BLTouch or was the coding in Marlin different? Looks like it's significantly less expensive than a BLTouch so if it is a drop-in replacement might be a good option for anybody looking for ABL.
 

lowfat

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This just made me think, the setting for borosilicate bed in marlin does what exactly? I guess it compensates for the extra time needed to reach your temp.
Honestly not sure. I'm not a real big fan of glass beds and don't use them any more. Even w/ aluminum / steel I have my starting gcode wait for 60s after reaching temp so the bed more evenly heats up before doing the mesh leveling.
 

sswilson

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Honestly not sure. I'm not a real big fan of glass beds and don't use them any more. Even w/ aluminum / steel I have my starting gcode wait for 60s after reaching temp so the bed more evenly heats up before doing the mesh leveling.

I'm sure it's overkill, but I wait a minimum of 5 minutes after selecting "pre-heat" before I select "print" to get the bltouch started.
 

lowfat

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Decided I wanted to try a 0.4mm nozzle in my Prusa yesterday. So since I was going to have to take the hotend apart, I decided to finally try the 'titanium' heatbreak I bought over a year ago from Triangle Labs. Also install the OMC 0.9 degree stepper I bought around the same time.



Just over a year ago I reprinted all the extruder body out of PC-ABS. Holding up surprisingly well considering how much ABS I've printed. Only just a small melt on my probe mount. No sagging.


Also the Nylon PA16 fan shroud I printed about a month ago is holding up awesome. Even after a couple of KGs of ABS printed. Zero sagging.

Finished the mods yesterday, finally updated firmware, and totally forgot what settings I needed to change on the Prusa firmware to get it to work. Finally just now getting some clean printers.
 

danmitch1

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@sswilson the 3d touch is working well. I dont have anything to compare it to but the web says its a tad less accurate that the original. Its an exact clone, i actually had to enable bltouch in marlin so its exactly the same.

@lowfat what build surface do you now prefer? Also, a couple of kg of ABS in a month!? Holy crap you print alot..
How do you like that style of probe?
What are the advantages of a titanium throat?
Lol, i see you have been in touch with the teaching tech guy.
 

lowfat

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@sswilson the 3d touch is working well. I dont have anything to compare it to but the web says its a tad less accurate that the original. Its an exact clone, i actually had to enable bltouch in marlin so its exactly the same.

@lowfat what build surface do you now prefer? Also, a couple of kg of ABS in a month!? Holy crap you print alot..
How do you like that style of probe?
It was a couple of KGs in like 3 days. :p

I use PEI on all my machines. Although I still like using a bit of glue stick on it as it really does make things much easier.

Inductive sensors are awesome, if you have a metal bed. And you have to use very thin print surfaces. Mine are like 0.2mm thick otherwise the sensors won't work.

The screenshot @ 12:37 was just a post on reprap forums from 3 years ago. Just kinda cool just randomly seeing my name when watching a vid. :)
 

danmitch1

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Holy sh*t , 3 days! Im guessing on multiple machines right?
And that titanium throat, what are the advantages?
 

lcdguy

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i'm guessing the titanium allows thinner walls to be used reducing heat creep from the heater block into the heatsink.

also finally got my MMU2S working with the prusa :)
 

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