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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

SugarJ

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I'm using a copy of an Openbuilds Workbee kit from Aliexpress, with an Openbuilds Blackbox controller & PSU, and a 500w spindle off Amazon. I'll put links below. Mine is a 750mm x 1000mm which gives me a cutting area of about 610x750mm. It's great for wood projects, but I'm in the midst of upgrading to linear rails instead of wheels as I do cut aluminum prototypes fairly regularly and find it needs to be a bit stiffer. I'm into this one for about $1600 CAD all-in before I started buying parts for a rail upgrade. The only problem with buying off Aliexpress right now is the greatly inflated air shipping costs these days, due to the limited number of flights from China to Canada.

If you're interested in building your own, OpenBuilds.com is a great resource to get started at.

Kit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32910691183.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.68346319Sq6jI3
Controller: https://makerparts.ca/collections/c...-motion-control-system?variant=16052426637406
PSU: https://makerparts.ca/collections/p...24v-14-6a-power-supply?variant=16033684357214
Spindle: https://www.amazon.ca/RATTMMOTOR-Spindle-12000RMP-AC110V-220V-Controller/dp/B0814SQMMS
 

sswilson

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Doesnt that mean it was exposed to moisture for too long? maybe try the oven trick first?

I'm assuming it was moisture, but it's also from a supplier who had had some issues with brittleness in the past. There isn't enough left on the roll to bother trying to dry it out (I can see the hub through the filament).
 

danmitch1

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Ahh ic gotcha.

I just ordered a roll of TPU, first time, pretty excited! Luckily im reading to use 100% part cooling as for now, all I can do is 0% or 100% lol...
first design will be custom crampons :)
 

sswilson

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Think it might be time to swap out my bowden tube. I ordered a replacement fairly early on, but stuck with "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" so long as the stock stuff seemed to be working well.

I noticed over the last few days that swapping out filament was becoming difficult (specifically removing) and thought that perhaps the existing tubing had shifted thus inducing a restriction. Now I'm seeing a weird issue where it doesn't appear to be extruding properly on one side of the bed so I'm thinking that the tube is restricting movement based on how it's being stressed on that side of the bed.

I've got one mail-away print that I'd really like to get done before I potentially break the printer though... :)

edit: Nope... that was bizarre. Changed print surface and everything seems fine now. Not sure if it was the surface or I nudged whatever was causing the issue back to normal.
 
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lcdguy

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i can think of 2 possible issues.

1. There is a small gap between the bottom of the ptfe tube and hot end causing issues with the filament path.

2. If it's not an all metal hot end, the tube will need to be replaced as it would then be in the meltzone and will deform over time.

I really like capricorn xs tubing but it can be pricey.

I see that changing the print surface also appears to have fixed the issue, perhaps it was just needing replacement or slightly out of alignment, in any case if it were me i would probably still double check the ptfe tube to make sure it still in good working order. :)
 

sswilson

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Scratching my head here...... I'll keep looking but maybe I'm missing something obvious that can be pointed out to me... :)

Just recently wiped my main cura/octoprint setup and am starting from scratch, but for some reason am not getting the same 9 point bed leveling prior to print that I was getting previously. Nothing on the printer has changed, I haven't done anything with the firmware flash that was previously working as I'd expect. 9 point leveling works as expected when selected from the printer's control panel.

I've added G29 to cura's machine settings after the G28 and it appears to be doing that, but it's only doing a single point probe and then going direct to cura's nozzle clearing line. (Once I figure this out, I suspect I can remove the G29 from Cura and insert it into octoprint instead).

Any ideas of what I've missed?

edit: Hrmmm..... going from manual terminal commands, what it's doing is the G28 command (auto home then probe center) but it's not performing the G29 (it does that from the command line).
 
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sswilson

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Double hrmmmmmm......

Seems to be working now. :)

Here's a question..... during my searching for a solution I came across a post from one of the printer manufacturers devs suggesting that they removed G28 / G29 from their script because it wasn't really necessary prior to each print as the mesh is saved to the eprom. They suggested that a person would only need to do a G29 periodically.

Now, I'm not completely sure about removing the home command (G28), but the comment on G29 does actually make some sense.

What D'ya think?
 

danmitch1

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Double hrmmmmmm......

Seems to be working now. :)

Here's a question..... during my searching for a solution I came across a post from one of the printer manufacturers devs suggesting that they removed G28 / G29 from their script because it wasn't really necessary prior to each print as the mesh is saved to the eprom. They suggested that a person would only need to do a G29 periodically.

Now, I'm not completely sure about removing the home command (G28), but the comment on G29 does actually make some sense.

What D'ya think?
Im really no expert in this, but if you are using the removable magnetic print surface maybe it would be useful to do a probe before each print as maybe removing and replacing the surface could slightly effect the previous mesh saved?

I actually added a m500 after my g29 as i wasnt sure it was being saved to the eeprom, probably just paranoid..

As for the home code, i think its necessary as when idle for too long, your printer puts the steppers to sleep so to speak so they loose track of what position they are in. Im guessing this could cause a crash?
 

sswilson

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No pics, but I just made one of these for a half-height K600. Had to do a little bit of filing around the display port cut-out, but other than that it worked like a charm.


Going to the display port connection on the k600 vice the HDMI / DVI ports on a GT 1030 let me set 1440p/120hz rather than being stuck @ 60hz.

It's this kind of small thing that I absolutely love about having a 3D printer. :)
 
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