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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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So I went to the local KMS Tools yesterday and picked up a 120 grit flap wheel to put in my drill press, then sanded the edges I felt needed definition on the Mandalorian model I carved a couple weeks ago.View attachment 30842

It came out better than I expected. Since I was doing that, I decided to try staining it as well to see if it would help some of the definition. I didn't want to go with a dark stain as I thought it would hide some of the fine detail, so I used some of this "Birch" colored Minwax I've had in the cupboard for years. It's got more red in it than I remembered. It was a very light coat, and wiped almost immediately after.

View attachment 30843

At this point my son came in the garage, said "Cool, can I have it?" so I put a hanger on the back, sprayed a coat of shellac on it to seal it and let him have it after it dried. I can see that the stain soaks in more on any vertical edge (makes sense, it's endgrain) so it adds some definition to Grogu and the gun stock that wasn't really visible before.

I've ordered a 0.5mm ballnose bit (this was done with a 1.5mm) and will be looking for another model to carve when I find a piece of oak to try it on. I think harder woods will have better results.
Nice finish. That flap wheel work was all done by hand?
 

danmitch1

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So my adventure with the constrained lead screw by pillow block bearing was un eventful, it did not help at all. So ive returned it and picked up an anti backlash nut which I think should help. I read that it doesnt help with vertical load as gravity pulls the Z axis down but if the bed is shaking (as the ender 5 does) it could, in theory, move the bed upward. I think the best way of installing it, would be with the spring pushing up from under the bed? .. BUT in the meantime, I ordered the dual Z kit from aliexpress over the weekend and Im nearly positive I should see a large improvement with it installed.
 

SugarJ

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Nice finish. That flap wheel work was all done by hand?

I cranked my drill press up to top speed (3200 rpm), stuck something similar to the picture below in it, then held the carving up to the spinning wheel.

IMG_3545__27124.1570197472.JPG
 

danmitch1

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Oh ok, I wonder if you could automate that process with your cnc.. im guessing you could
 

SugarJ

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I'm hoping that using a hardwood will result in less tearing of the grain leaving fuzzies, along with a different tool path. I also grabbed a smaller bullnose bit which will triple the run time but should produce finer detail. I agree that it should be possible to have a sanding or grinding tip go around the edges, but it took me all of 5 minutes to do what sanding I wanted manually. It would have taken me longer trying to figure out the toolpath.
 

danmitch1

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This is quite annoying.. I bought an anti backlash nut off amazon (3 pack 14$) and its the wrong fit.. its a 4 start (side rant: none of these amazon nuts clearly indicate how many starts they have). I cant seem to find any 2 start anti backlash nuts for under 25$ unless I order from China... I believe the ender 5 used to come with a 4 start lead screw that has the steeper threads, this caused the bed to drop after printing. The fix was an anti backlash nut BUT.. Creality changed the lead screw to 2 start, which is far less steep which stops the bed from falling on its own. Not sure im understanding this right...

Im guessing there is less demand for anti backlash nuts for 2 start as its not really needed ?

My dual kit comes with one and I wanted to make sure both leads where Identical..

I guess ill have to order a nut from China.
 

danmitch1

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I cant help but feel like im spamming this thread lol.. ECHO ECHO ECHO..... HELLO IN THERE THERE THERE THERE...

Anywaze.. I found a proper anti backlash nut made out of POM.. I sent a test print to see if my z wobble was any better and something else fishy is going on now. Crazy stringing and like, blobs followed by what looks like under extruding..

Using PETG, temps at 230 (thats the lowest recommended temp) ive got retraction set at 2mm and 45mm speed..

Also, just started a return on a flexible print surface ( the magnet one) as after one print, removing the print ripped a hole in it!
I purchased this fancy one, people apparently swear by it.. well see

For those who have a direct drive extruder, what settings are you using for retraction distance and speed?
 
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