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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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Really eh, I would have thought the bearing would be the culpret of that? Also seems like that artifact is mistaken for ghosting/ringing no?
 

lowfat

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Really eh, I would have thought the bearing would be the culprit of that? Also seems like that artifact is mistaken for ghosting/ringing no?
You'll be able to find lots of people online that have also had issues w/ cheap teethed idlers failing. Think they just can't take the belt tension. Looks like the bearings I'm using for my smooth idlers are also failing.

Ringing should only happen on corners. For this issue it is consistent across the entire part.
 

danmitch1

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You'll be able to find lots of people online that have also had issues w/ cheap teethed idlers failing. Think they just can't take the belt tension. Looks like the bearings I'm using for my smooth idlers are also failing.

Ringing should only happen on corners. For this issue it is consistent across the entire part.
I guess the most economical way would be to order new idlers from aliexpress..
To the un trained eye though(mine) I would have thought it was ringing :)

Look what I did last night as a temporary enclosure to print my first ABS model lol...🧑‍🚒🔥🚒

IMG_20210427_203807432.jpgIMG_20210427_203815317.jpgIMG_20210427_203821834.jpgIMG_20210427_215456679.jpgIMG_20210427_215507920.jpgIMG_20210427_215530684.jpgIMG_20210427_221921171.jpg

First print looked like it was going well.. and then several lines didnt stick to the bed and looked like they were going to cause major issues so I canceled the print... Ill try again later today.. I think my z offset was to blame..

Oh btw do you guys use a M500 after your G29 ?
 

lowfat

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Is that reflective mylar? Not sure its going to work well when the printer has that much volume. Really if you are just printing a fan shroud you really don't need an enclosure. Use some Elmer's purple extra strength glue stick, bed @ 100-110C, and try using a draft shield.
 

danmitch1

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Its those emergency blankets you find at the dollar store lol... It was holding in the heat really well actually, I was thinking of putting a 100watt incandescent light to add a bit more heat. Im going to finish the roll on various projects as its such a friggen PITA to change a roll with that extruder... I was printing with 100c bed, the roll suggested 80-100, should I go to 110? Will that glue mess up my PET sheet though? Do you model your own shield or is there a setting in the slicer somewhere?
 

danmitch1

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So I might just have been lucky but my second attempt at printing ABS went very well.

I used the draft shield as suggested (yup, included in the slicer), I also used a brim and brought up my zprobe offset a touch to get some added squish on the first layer.

No glue was used.. as im not sure what effect, if any, it will have on my 40$ PEI plate :p .

I up'd the temps by 5c from the first attempt and printed at 235c tool 105c bed. Ive always stuck to the temp range suggested on the rolls but I think that I should have perhaps used them more as a guide rather than a rule?

As I monitored the print, it seems to have printed better than my PETG prints... I might have found my new goto filament!
 

lowfat

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Forgot to reply yesterday. Glue stick absolutely has no affect on PEI. PEI is an engineering plastic and is pretty much resistant to everything. I love glue stick.

ABS is awesome BUT any part not small is hard to print. You won't be doing large parts w/o a heated print chamber. I have a 300W heater in mine to maintain 50C ambient. And even then i can still get warping. Can't take it higher I'll get missed steps.
 

danmitch1

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Ahha, well, ill have to try the glue some time then!

I definitely got lucky as the part I printed yesterday wasnt exactly small:
diam.png

I was hitting 40- 45c ambient inside my hobo tent :)

What creates the missed steps when exposed to +50c temps? do you have a cooling solution for when it gets above 50c?
 

sswilson

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First kick at the cat so it's rough but I think it's going in the right direction.....

Stock cooling for my new Dell G5 Desktop is a single 80mm rear mounted fan, but while the rear grill is only slightly over 80mm wide it's 120mm high.... my thinking is to feed that open grill into a 120mm fan mounted on the exterior of the rear of the case in "pull" config....

There are a few 80 - 120mm adapters on thingiverse, but I want the 120 to be drawing from the whole available rear grill rather than just a 80X80mm hole so I had to head over to tinkercad and scratch my head a while figuring out how to do what I wanted with my minimal modeling skills.

The basic shape is there, now I need to figure out some mounting points.

rear grill.jpg
 

sswilson

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Currently printing this off. We'll see how it fits and then decide if I want to just drill the appropriate holes out or if I want to try to incorporate them into the design (so much easier just to mark and drill... :) ).

I'm not even completely sure if this is a good idea or not.... the grill is an area of 12Kmm while a single 120mm fan is 14Kmm area. The noctua fan I plan on using is relatively high pressure so I'm thinking it should have no problems drawing the air through a slightly smaller grill area.

edit: And damn..... the default Ender 3 settings for the new Cura version sure as hell seems like they've bumped the printing and travel speeds wayyyy up. :)

edit2: I'm going to let it complete the print to see how it turns out, but I suspect there's a fatal error in the initial modelling that'll bring me back to the first early steps..... I made the walls of the "pyramid" that I used for the fan angle way too small when I hollowed it out.

It won't require a redesign, I'll still be putting the same "blocks" together in pretty much the same way, but it's back to something like step 4 out of 20(ish) steps.
 
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