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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

Izerous

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Was doing something dangerous and looking at all the various bit and pieces that can be swapped out. If I ever wanted to do flexible I should look at x or if pla and abs only look at y kind of stuff.

Something when it comes down to things like the various hotend though I'm not always finding the kind of detail and explanations I'd like. Microswiss keeps coming up but other articles say they are dated. Was looking at trinaglelabs and there are spirals, mosquitoes, dragons, v6, spirals in v6 or CR10 formats etc. Ince you enter the all metal/bipedal category how much does one to the other really make a difference. Why go V6 top instead or CR10 top?

I think the CR10 top would be direct replacement with v6 top being mean for things like the direct drive bmg units?
 

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
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2,140
So I was only printing with the included sample, which has since run out. I then switched to the spool that I bought with the printer (also Voxelab branded), and I assumed to be the same as the sample. However, The first small print I did with the new filament ended up lifting on one side, and the top layer looks/feels like the nozzle was dragging on it some, though I am not sure (a bit rough to the touch).

Any ideas? It is labeled as PLA+, which I assumed the sample was the same, but maybe not... I had no problems with the sample on any prints.
Those glass beds are difficult to print on IMO. If you have a ir thermometer, check that the surface of the bed actually reaches the desired temperature. You might need to bump it up above your desired temperature to compensate for the glass.
Was doing something dangerous and looking at all the various bit and pieces that can be swapped out. If I ever wanted to do flexible I should look at x or if pla and abs only look at y kind of stuff.

Something when it comes down to things like the various hotend though I'm not always finding the kind of detail and explanations I'd like. Microswiss keeps coming up but other articles say they are dated. Was looking at trinaglelabs and there are spirals, mosquitoes, dragons, v6, spirals in v6 or CR10 formats etc. Ince you enter the all metal/bipedal category how much does one to the other really make a difference. Why go V6 top instead or CR10 top?

I think the CR10 top would be direct replacement with v6 top being mean for things like the direct drive bmg units?
You might need to learn CAD design to make parts fit on that printer. Unless. Thiniverse has some adapters already
 

Bond007

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Those glass beds are difficult to print on IMO. If you have a ir thermometer, check that the surface of the bed actually reaches the desired temperature. You might need to bump it up above your desired temperature to compensate for the glass.
The thing is I literally finished a print with the last of the sample filament without issue. Then started one with the new filament (same gcode) and had the issue.
 

vulcan500rider

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Regina, SK
The thing is I literally finished a print with the last of the sample filament without issue. Then started one with the new filament (same gcode) and had the issue.
It happens. I actually just went through something similar yesterday when I went from one colour of transparent PETG to a pure clear PETG. Same company and everything, but the clear PETG didn't work worth a damn at the temps I was using with the other colours--it needed another 10+ degrees to get everything adhering the way it should. You may have to play around to find the sweet spot for the new filament.

On the lifting side of things, I went through that not too long ago too. If you're not printing with a brim, try it out--say 8 lines or so--and see if that stops the lifting.

I'm pretty new to this too, so take this with a grain of salt, but it's worked out for me. Good luck!
 

Bond007

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Well...it appears you may have been right. I tried one more print with the same temps (just a bed re-level and clean) with the same results. I then increased the nozzle temp from 200 to 210, and it appears to have sorted the warping (at least for this print). I will try another after, but the colour swap from red to orange seems to have needed more heat.
 
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sswilson

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Well...it appears you may have been right. I tried one more print with the same temps (just a bed re-level and clean) with the same results. I just increased the nozzle temp from 200 to 210, and it appears to have sorted the warping (at least for this print). I will try another after, but the colour swap from red to orange seems to have needed more heat.

Yeah, not only can different brands/lots of filament require tweaking, but even different colours of the same brand/lot can behave differently.

At one point I was printing off a cube between every filament change, but now I just use the previous settings and make adjustments if I run into any issues with the new filament.
 

Bond007

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Put an order in from aliexpress for some random parts to have handy in case I get bored and want a little project...or need them:

2xreplacement 40x10 fans, pneumatic connectors, PTFE tubing, replacement springs, bed insulation, tubing cutter, clone BMG extruder. $29 all in.

I am sure some of it is bad quality, but I only really care about the springs and extruder.

Ordered it all from one seller...we will see.

 

Izerous

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Just poking around last night found liquid cooled hotends and even "waterblocks" for stepper motors. But nothing comparable for the control boards not even heat pipe based heatsinks etc.

In what situation would you need to water cool the hot end (besides noise) and the stepper motors but not overhaul the cooling for the control boards? Or is the 120mm adapter plates etc basically what everyone just does with these when going overboard?
 

lowfat

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Just poking around last night found liquid cooled hotends and even "waterblocks" for stepper motors. But nothing comparable for the control boards not even heat pipe based heatsinks etc.

In what situation would you need to water cool the hot end (besides noise) and the stepper motors but not overhaul the cooling for the control boards? Or is the 120mm adapter plates etc basically what everyone just does with these when going overboard?
Printers w/ high temp heated chambers. Like if you are printing PEI or PEEK. Steppers can only handle about about 100C. Most of the time steppers could be mounted externally, unless using direct drive.

Control boards can always be external. I still always add fans to mine tho. Have tons of 120mm fans and I just wire them in parallel w/ the hotend fan.
 

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