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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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Just watched this video


Pretty damn cool (or hot : P ) Love that "drunk octopus wants to fight", pretty creative lol...
What really caught my eye though, was the use of krazy glue (not sure how he was handling that with bare hands...) and polyurethane to smooth out the part.
 

lowfat

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For a simple part like that it may work. But PLA isn't a great material for this. FDM in general isn't great. There is a good chance the PLA won't burn out completely, and you'll end up w/ bad spots on the cast part. You generally want to use a resin printer w/ casting resin. They make 'wax' resins where you can easily add wax and post process the part w/ wax casting tools. But the casting resin is like 5x the cost of regular resin.

BUT casting is super expensive to get in to. You'll pretty much need both a kiln and a melting furnace. Both can be made if you like DIY.

I've been planning on getting in to casting for years (to make metal parts for printer / CNC mostly lol). I was going to use PLA for lost casting, but after researching I thought going resin is worth the added cost. I'm going to buy a melting furnace this week. Probably this one https://www.amazon.ca/Masters-Propane-Furnace-Crucible-Smelting/dp/B073DRQY98. Ratuken rebates coming in 3 days and I have enough from my Dell purchases to pay for 95% of it. I got a boat load of cans saved up so I can start melting asap.

Kilns tho are expensive. You are looking @ $1500ish for a 120V tabletop one in Canada. You can get used 240V massive commerial kilns on Kijiji for maybe $500. But I don't have a 240V 30A+ circuit. So I'll be making my own. Rip apart a toaster for the heating coil. Fire bricks are pretty cheap. Already have a kiln thermistor and PID controller, both were cheap'ish. Then just need a container and something else to fill the gaps. Tons of youtube tutorials out there on making one.

And then you really need a vacuum machine to remove air from the plaster mix, the poured mold, and generally when pouring the metal as well to insure no bubbles. Cheap ones you are looking $250 and they go up to $2k.


Plus safetly equipment and tools. Even with DIYing a bunch of stuff, i expect everything to cost close to $2k. :(
 

danmitch1

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For a simple part like that it may work. But PLA isn't a great material for this. FDM in general isn't great. There is a good chance the PLA won't burn out completely, and you'll end up w/ bad spots on the cast part. You generally want to use a resin printer w/ casting resin. They make 'wax' resins where you can easily add wax and post process the part w/ wax casting tools. But the casting resin is like 5x the cost of regular resin.

BUT casting is super expensive to get in to. You'll pretty much need both a kiln and a melting furnace. Both can be made if you like DIY.

I've been planning on getting in to casting for years (to make metal parts for printer / CNC mostly lol). I was going to use PLA for lost casting, but after researching I thought going resin is worth the added cost. I'm going to buy a melting furnace this week. Probably this one https://www.amazon.ca/Masters-Propane-Furnace-Crucible-Smelting/dp/B073DRQY98. Ratuken rebates coming in 3 days and I have enough from my Dell purchases to pay for 95% of it. I got a boat load of cans saved up so I can start melting asap.

Kilns tho are expensive. You are looking @ $1500ish for a 120V tabletop one in Canada. You can get used 240V massive commerial kilns on Kijiji for maybe $500. But I don't have a 240V 30A+ circuit. So I'll be making my own. Rip apart a toaster for the heating coil. Fire bricks are pretty cheap. Already have a kiln thermistor and PID controller, both were cheap'ish. Then just need a container and something else to fill the gaps. Tons of youtube tutorials out there on making one.

And then you really need a vacuum machine to remove air from the plaster mix, the poured mold, and generally when pouring the metal as well to insure no bubbles. Cheap ones you are looking $250 and they go up to $2k.


Plus safetly equipment and tools. Even with DIYing a bunch of stuff, i expect everything to cost close to $2k. :(
I opened up a can of worms there didnt I.. lol!
Awesome though, let us know how that all goes!

The guy in the video pulls out the printed part from the sand mold and pours the molten aluminum into a bare cavity,

I really want to try that krazy glue and polyurethane trick, looks almost perfect afterward.
 

lowfat

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I opened up a can of worms there didnt I.. lol!
Awesome though, let us know how that all goes!

The guy in the video pulls out the printed part from the sand mold and pours the molten aluminum into a bare cavity,
O yes, that method. I watched the video a couple a months ago so I didn't watch it again. Problem w/ that is you can only cast specific shaped parts.
 

danmitch1

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O yes, that method. I watched the video a couple a months ago so I didn't watch it again. Problem w/ that is you can only cast specific shaped parts.
yeah, it has its limitation eh, he briefly explains that there. Who says money cant buy happiness!!?? BS if hobbies make you happy :)
 

lowfat

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Ordered an Anycubic Photon Mono + Wash and Cure 2.0. Both had coupons on Amazon that amounted to $120 off. And only 2 left in stock for the Photon so I didn't want to wait till my rebates came in.
 

lowfat

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Anyone using a resin printer? Seems like these slicer choices are garbage. Both choices out there push their paid versions pretty hard. And I'm not going to pay $179USD/year for a damn slicer. Chitibox scaling is so bad on my setup I can't read anything. Lychee seems like everything you try needs 'PRO'. :cautious:
 

Bartacus

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Ottawa, Canuckistan
I managed to compile my very first working Marlin build recently, and that felt like quite the accomplishment. I hit several snags on the way, but managed to figure out where I went wrong and get er done, while learning tons in the process.

600W Meanwell PSU installed in the rear, since there's no way that monster fits in the case properly:
vfcGYsKl.jpg


Finally after 1.5 years, I'm installing the Micro Swiss hot end. About bloody time.
aXlYG8Ll.jpg


After all the Marlin-ing, I now have my Z-steppers on separate 2209 drivers on the SKR 1.4 board, and can now auto-align the z-motors with each other. Plus with the 600W PSU, there are no more issues heating bed + hot end simultaneously. Now I'm just waiting for my Ender 3 V2 to print me up a new mounting bracket for the Bondtech BMG + stock filament sensor combo. I just need to pick a name for this big boi. I'm torn between 2 choices:

1) Bartie-5 Plus (old people might remember the robot Johnny-5 from the movie Short Circuit)
2) Bender-5 Plus (Bart + Ender 5, obvious Futurama reference, who doesn't like Bender)

Decisions decisions.
 

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