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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

sswilson

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So what mainboard did you use with it? When I had a quick look it didn't look like the platform was compatible with third party mainboards....
 

danmitch1

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Wow! You are really quite advanced in this. Taking it to a completely different level. Awesome
 

lowfat

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So what mainboard did you use with it? When I had a quick look it didn't look like the platform was compatible with third party mainboards....
MKS SBase 1.3. Its pretty much irrelevant at this point. It was one of the first $100ish 32-bit boards. Its stepper drivers are garbage tho. But I have 3 of them, so I might as well use them.
 

Bartacus

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So I took a drive to a local place (Envirolaser3d in Ottawa), and picked up some funky filament, some Hello3D brass-like stuff. From the minute I saw the Gayerson-Anderson cat that was scanned at the Smithsonian, I wanted to print it in a cool filament as a little art piece. This is my first little 'tester', since I want to eventually print a huge HQ one.

Camera flash makes it look more gold than it looks IRL:


I printed this at 210C.


Looks decent to me, but I don't know what a good print is supposed to look like. This is at standard quality settings, will take recommendations for tweaks!


Head shot:
 

danmitch1

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This is my problem, I dont know what good is and I think I have been chasing something unobtainable.
Looks good man, are you going to sand it?
 

Bartacus

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This is my problem, I dont know what good is and I think I have been chasing something unobtainable.
Looks good man, are you going to sand it?
This was a tester, so I won't be sanding. Not sure I would anyway, since that would be tricky. The detail on the chest would be too easy to sand away, since it's very thin. My plan is to scale this kitty up to the maximum scale my printer will allow. But prior to that, I'd like the printing to be as perfect as it can be, and a lot of that seems to be learning the material. I'm a noob too, so I really don't know what to do to improve that. On this shiny stuff, I did increase my nozzle print temp from 200c to 210c, after talking to the guy that runs the store I bought the filament from. But that's the *only* setting I altered in Cura, everything else is default. Considering that cat is a 'standard' quality print that only took 8 hours, I think it's fine. It will be interesting to see what the bumping the quality up will do, other than triple the time of the print. :)
 

danmitch1

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Yeah exactly, you cant get "good" prints if you are in a rush. in my short experience, slowing down the print speed to 50 or 60, calibrating the extruder helped alot. Obviously lowering the layer height will help too.
 

lowfat

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Has anyone tried Unified Mesh Levelling in Marlin? This is the first time I've used vanilla Marlin before. My MK3S uses a form of bilinear leveling I think. I'm trying UBL on my CoreXY and I have no idea what its doing. :eek:

I did a 'cold mesh' and it honestly took 30 minutes and I don't even know what was the point. Sending a G29 from my computer just makes the printer beep at me.

Guess its time to do some googling to figure this out.


However otherwise the CoreXY seems to be functioning. Had some issues w/ my voltage divider for the inductive sensor, until I realized the sensor had a built in pull up resistor, messing up my voltage divider. The Z axis is also ungodly loud. I may have to try decoupling the stepper as its resonating through the entire frame. That unfortunately is a pain as I need to level 3 z axis screws at the same time. I did it yesterday and it was extremely aggravating.

EDIT: I've eventually gave up on UBL. Trying Bilinear. Still having issues. I need it to avoid my bed screws as they stick up and could alter the mesh. But nothing I try works.

Code:
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
  //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 5 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE
  #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 5 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#endif
In theory make the mesh avoid the first 5cm of the front and back of the bed. Except it don't. It avoids 10 of the front and zero of the back. If I set a -5 for back, it actually tries to go to far.
 
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sswilson

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IMO you shouldn't ever have to adjust the bed level ever after initially doing so. Remove any springs and double nut the screw so they can't move after leveling. Relevelling every few prints :oops:? I would have thrown my printer in the trash if I had to this. Even if the bed warps under heating/cooling, leveling the bed won't really fix this. That is what the mesh leveling is for.




Replacing the glass w/ PEI?
Sooooo..... I'm giving this a shot......

I ended up leaving the one spring installed on the plastic "guide", tightened it up to the max and then hard fixed the other 3 corners with nuts (still kept the wheels for the bottom) while doing a "permanent" level.

Just starting my first print after doing that... we'll see how it turns out.... :)
Quick revisit to this.... the initial level I set (3 hard points, 1 still on a spring but full tension because I didn't have an appropriate metal spacer on hand) seemed to hold fine while I did a ton of prints off of a roll of PETG on glass. OTOH I was having adhesion issues when I switched back to PLA on the standard print surface. I double checked the single non-fixed corner and the spring was no longer completely compressed.... tightening that back up seems to have brought my adhesion back.

It's always hard to say for sure if one particular change resulted in the improvement, but based on that I'm going to keep my eyes open for an appropriately high metal spacer to replace the spring with so that it becomes fixed as well.
 

lowfat

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Quick revisit to this.... the initial level I set (3 hard points, 1 still on a spring but full tension because I didn't have an appropriate metal spacer on hand) seemed to hold fine while I did a ton of prints off of a roll of PETG on glass. OTOH I was having adhesion issues when I switched back to PLA on the standard print surface. I double checked the single non-fixed corner and the spring was no longer completely compressed.... tightening that back up seems to have brought my adhesion back.

It's always hard to say for sure if one particular change resulted in the improvement, but based on that I'm going to keep my eyes open for an appropriately high metal spacer to replace the spring with so that it becomes fixed as well.
Can you fit another nut underneath? Two nuts together should eliminate slippage.




Man this weekend w/ the new printer has been a nightmare. Issue after issue. Spend a solid day and a half (12+hr days) trying to figure out issues w/ bed leveling not using the entire bed. Then the heated bed wouldnt work. Which ended up being the thermal switch I installed to prevent it from going over 130C. It ended up being a normally closed thermal switch. Then I noticed that the SD card on the LCD don't work. Only the SD card on the board itself. Spend hours trying to figure this out but eventually just gave up.

And now I'm 2 solid days in issues w/ Octoprint. Had it working on a Pi3 w/ SSD for like years. But I bought a Pi4B to replace it. Pi4B doesn't have native USB booting support yet. But its possible w/ some work. After like 6 reinstalls I got that working. But now Octoprint doesn't see any printers I hook up. Printers show up as USB devices but aren't being recognized as USB to serial devices. Reinstall to SD card, printers show up correct. Move install to SSD and once again, no usb to serial. At this point I've reinstalled the OS like 10x. :(

Still haven't even done a test print.
 

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