MKS SBase 1.3. Its pretty much irrelevant at this point. It was one of the first $100ish 32-bit boards. Its stepper drivers are garbage tho. But I have 3 of them, so I might as well use them.So what mainboard did you use with it? When I had a quick look it didn't look like the platform was compatible with third party mainboards....
This was a tester, so I won't be sanding. Not sure I would anyway, since that would be tricky. The detail on the chest would be too easy to sand away, since it's very thin. My plan is to scale this kitty up to the maximum scale my printer will allow. But prior to that, I'd like the printing to be as perfect as it can be, and a lot of that seems to be learning the material. I'm a noob too, so I really don't know what to do to improve that. On this shiny stuff, I did increase my nozzle print temp from 200c to 210c, after talking to the guy that runs the store I bought the filament from. But that's the *only* setting I altered in Cura, everything else is default. Considering that cat is a 'standard' quality print that only took 8 hours, I think it's fine. It will be interesting to see what the bumping the quality up will do, other than triple the time of the print.This is my problem, I dont know what good is and I think I have been chasing something unobtainable.
Looks good man, are you going to sand it?
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 5 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 5 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE #endif
IMO you shouldn't ever have to adjust the bed level ever after initially doing so. Remove any springs and double nut the screw so they can't move after leveling. Relevelling every few prints ? I would have thrown my printer in the trash if I had to this. Even if the bed warps under heating/cooling, leveling the bed won't really fix this. That is what the mesh leveling is for.
Replacing the glass w/ PEI?
Quick revisit to this.... the initial level I set (3 hard points, 1 still on a spring but full tension because I didn't have an appropriate metal spacer on hand) seemed to hold fine while I did a ton of prints off of a roll of PETG on glass. OTOH I was having adhesion issues when I switched back to PLA on the standard print surface. I double checked the single non-fixed corner and the spring was no longer completely compressed.... tightening that back up seems to have brought my adhesion back.Sooooo..... I'm giving this a shot......
I ended up leaving the one spring installed on the plastic "guide", tightened it up to the max and then hard fixed the other 3 corners with nuts (still kept the wheels for the bottom) while doing a "permanent" level.
Just starting my first print after doing that... we'll see how it turns out....
Can you fit another nut underneath? Two nuts together should eliminate slippage.Quick revisit to this.... the initial level I set (3 hard points, 1 still on a spring but full tension because I didn't have an appropriate metal spacer on hand) seemed to hold fine while I did a ton of prints off of a roll of PETG on glass. OTOH I was having adhesion issues when I switched back to PLA on the standard print surface. I double checked the single non-fixed corner and the spring was no longer completely compressed.... tightening that back up seems to have brought my adhesion back.
It's always hard to say for sure if one particular change resulted in the improvement, but based on that I'm going to keep my eyes open for an appropriately high metal spacer to replace the spring with so that it becomes fixed as well.