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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
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I managed to spend some time in the garage the last few days, got my new CNC build up to production ready. I just need to make some hold-down clamps.

View attachment 28498

That's 96 holes with inserts for screws. And I had enough reach I was able to mill them all out with the machine. Next Amazon order I'll add some more so I can fill in that last row.
Cool, can that cut metal?
 

Bartacus

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You didnt add anything to compress the spring more?
From what ive read on that, maybe your nozzle is partially clogged, bad filament diameter, too low temps.
I'm going to tear it all down this evening. This thing has not been behaving since I did the extruder / capricorn tube upgrade / Luke Hatfield fix. Heat should be fine, I was printing at 210C, with the bed set to 70C. But I suspect I messed up somewhere, maybe in the length of small capricorn tube I cut for the hot end.
 

danmitch1

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I'm going to tear it all down this evening. This thing has not been behaving since I did the extruder / capricorn tube upgrade / Luke Hatfield fix. Heat should be fine, I was printing at 210C, with the bed set to 70C. But I suspect I messed up somewhere, maybe in the length of small capricorn tube I cut for the hot end.
Did you notice the "washer" was really thick for that fix? I made mine half the thickness cause the Bowden tube coupler didn't have enough thread to be solid.. could be your issue.
 

Bartacus

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Did you notice the "washer" was really thick for that fix? I made mine half the thickness cause the Bowden tube coupler didn't have enough thread to be solid.. could be your issue.
Hmmmm, I did not notice that. When I first installed everything I was getting extrusion, so I assumed at the start there was no issue, but I wonder if something shifted. Once I get everything apart, I'll check that washer out. Thanks for the tip!
 

SugarJ

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Cool, can that cut metal?
It will cut aluminum and other soft metals like brass. It's not stiff enough to cut steel. The reason I built this one is my last one flexed too much while cutting aluminum. Eventually I'd like to update it with linear rails instead of the wheel system.
 

danmitch1

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It will cut aluminum and other soft metals like brass. It's not stiff enough to cut steel. The reason I built this one is my last one flexed too much while cutting aluminum. Eventually I'd like to update it with linear rails instead of the wheel system.
Does it need coolant for cutting aluminium?
 

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
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Oh nice, Im used to seeing those cnc's with enclosures full of coolant, i guess those are for harder metals eh.

So ponterface upload to sd is actually terribly slow! I decided to use a spare pc i had lying around to install octoprint on. I figured i should try it before investing in a raspberry pi system.

I used the included 12" usb cable from my SKR mini e3( why is it powered?? My lcd stays lit.. i slid a piece of paper over the 5v pin..)
Heres my ridiculous setup
IMG_20200330_184908190.jpgIMG_20200330_184917887.jpgIMG_20200330_184935523.jpg

So i got my web cam working , just need to setup the timelapse thing.
Uploading a 9.4mb gcode to the sd took 18minutes! This normal? My board says the baudrate should be 115200..

Should i be printing from octoprint and not sd?
 

sswilson

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Yes, you should be printing directly from octoprint.

As far as the usb goes... that's disapointing, I was hoping that the new board would resolve the issue of the display being powered over USB when the power supply isn't on......
 

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
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Yes, you should be printing directly from octoprint.

As far as the usb goes... that's disapointing, I was hoping that the new board would resolve the issue of the display being powered over USB when the power supply isn't on......
Ahh ok , Ive heard that it can effect quality though, that true? Maybe im ok with the 12inch cable?

Yeah I thought for sure the usb cable included would be the correct cable..
 
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