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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
Messages
1,267
Was using a raft since the mirrored bed can be quite slick. Print didn't end well though, it curled up BIG time in one spot. Plus the layering looks bad, and the extruder is obviously still a problem.


Dusting on the filament sensor too:


It stuck very well in the 'rear', not so much in the front:


Looks good from afar:


This was the part that lifted the most. Looks like a rough first layer lead to issues later on:


Once I tried to get the print off, but that didn't do too well. This was mostly support material that stuck to the raft, but still a bad sign to me:


Layering looks pretty awful:




This WAS a Hero Me Gen 3 fan shround. I think you're supposed to print this without supports, LOL! So I tried to take the supports off. A few moments later: 🙃


The pieces were VERY brittle, layer problems were obvious.


Now I have no real clue what to do, other than revert back to the stock 3d printed extruder / gears and see if that makes any difference. Or swap the gear wheels out and use old gears with the aluminum pieces. Damn I wish I had left the extruder alone!!!!
Thats fkin sucks man. Looks like under extrusion eh?
What bed temp are you using? Have you measured the temp of the surface of the bed , like does it compensate for the glass ?
I use 99% rubbing alcohol to clean my bed before printing, might be something to try..

I would run the PID autotune on the hotend and bed (maybe set the bed at a temp that will actually compensate for the glass reflecting your target temp) then tune the E-steps on your extruder.. at least before reverting to the stock setup.

Heres a pro question, whats the best extruder you would suggest (idler , filament gripper thing)?
 

Entz

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Jul 17, 2011
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Kelowna
Random thought, is there any tension issues on the filament entering the sensor block? Like the spool not rolling nicely. If you disconnect/bypass the sensor does it help any?
 

Bartacus

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Nov 22, 2014
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Ottawa, Canuckistan
Thats fkin sucks man. Looks like under extrusion eh?
What bed temp are you using? Have you measured the temp of the surface of the bed , like does it compensate for the glass ?
I use 99% rubbing alcohol to clean my bed before printing, might be something to try..

I would run the PID autotune on the hotend and bed (maybe set the bed at a temp that will actually compensate for the glass reflecting your target temp) then tune the E-steps on your extruder.. at least before reverting to the stock setup.

Heres a pro question, whats the best extruder you would suggest (idler , filament gripper thing)?
I only have 50% IPA and I'm almost out. If you have any tips on where to find that rare stuff, I'm listening, LOL! My bed temp is usually 70. I have been cleaning the glass, then hair spraying it. I will have to do that PID autotune for sure, but I ran into a roadblock with yet another mod. Grrrrrr.
Random thought, is there any tension issues on the filament entering the sensor block? Like the spool not rolling nicely. If you disconnect/bypass the sensor does it help any?
Ya know, I've never tried taking the filament sensor out of the equation. It was feeding nice and click free for the start of the print, so I hadn't suspected it TBH. It can be a tough thing to intially feed filament through if you don't angle your cut properly, but if you do that, it passes though easy enough.

Latest mod disaster: the TH3D LCD upgrade kit for the Ender 5 Plus. I'm sure this one is my fault, but I am very much looking forward to a better LCD. But mine doesn't work. Specifically, when I connect my printer to my PC in order to flash the TH3D unified firmware, required for the new LCD, the flash program refuses to recognize my printer. But if I disconnect from the PC, and plug the exact same USB cable into the Raspberry Pi, Octoprint sees the printer no problem. I'm kinda confuzzled. The fun continues, LOL!
 

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
Messages
1,267
I only have 50% IPA and I'm almost out. If you have any tips on where to find that rare stuff, I'm listening, LOL! My bed temp is usually 70. I have been cleaning the glass, then hair spraying it. I will have to do that PID autotune for sure, but I ran into a roadblock with yet another mod. Grrrrrr.

Ya know, I've never tried taking the filament sensor out of the equation. It was feeding nice and click free for the start of the print, so I hadn't suspected it TBH. It can be a tough thing to intially feed filament through if you don't angle your cut properly, but if you do that, it passes though easy enough.

Latest mod disaster: the TH3D LCD upgrade kit for the Ender 5 Plus. I'm sure this one is my fault, but I am very much looking forward to a better LCD. But mine doesn't work. Specifically, when I connect my printer to my PC in order to flash the TH3D unified firmware, required for the new LCD, the flash program refuses to recognize my printer. But if I disconnect from the PC, and plug the exact same USB cable into the Raspberry Pi, Octoprint sees the printer no problem. I'm kinda confuzzled. The fun continues, LOL!
I had a stash before the craziness broke out, shelves are definitely empty now. ..
Have you tried loading the firmware.bin onto the sd card ?
 

Bartacus

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Nov 22, 2014
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Ottawa, Canuckistan
I had a stash before the craziness broke out, shelves are definitely empty now. ..
Have you tried loading the firmware.bin onto the sd card ?
Lucky man, LOL! Nah, I never use my SD card slot. That thing has never worked from day 1, hence why Octoprint was my first "upgrade" after I bought the printer.
 

danmitch1

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Dec 15, 2007
Messages
1,267
Oh no! did you contact the seller? You should at least get a discount for the defect!
 

Bartacus

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Nov 22, 2014
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723
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Ottawa, Canuckistan
Oh no! did you contact the seller? You should at least get a discount for the defect!
Nah, didn't figure I'd ever need it once I got Octoprint going.
What board is this on? An SKR? If so you need to RMA it. It isn't possible to update firmware w/o SD card.
Stock E5P mainboard. I have an SKR board but haven't installed it yet, it's too far over my head right now.
 

Bartacus

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Nov 22, 2014
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Ottawa, Canuckistan
Ok, for some reason today I was able to flash the stock mainboard with TH3D's unified firmware. Now my LCD upgrade works, and I have basically unlocked all the goodies I didn't have before, like being able to do PID tuning directly from the LCD screen. Not sure what changed, but today the 3DP gods were kind, even though I did the *exact* same thing I did last night to flash the thing. But I will not question the gods! It works, and that's all that matters.
 

sswilson

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Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
19,115
Location
Moncton NB
Hrmmm.... if it's doing the PID tuning direct from the LCD screen (obviously incorporated with the firmware) does that mean it'll also update the settings or does that still have to be done manually from the console?
 

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