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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

sswilson

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That's really bloody cool considering it's your own 3D design. Is there a process you're using to cut it up into printable pieces that'll ultimately fit together.
 

danmitch1

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Thanks! Yeah, at the time of modeling the thought never crossed my mind that one day I might want to 3d print it. But thankfully the way I modeled it, I tried to keep the factory paneling true to show the most detail possible but, I modeled it for rendering only and was trying to budget the poly count so alot of the parts were 2 dimensional ( I deleted parts invisible to the camera to save on memory). I had to rebuild the back sides of alot of it, then virtually piece them together.. my little rotary tool is helping me for parts I didnt quite fit perfectly virtually.
1.png2.png3.png
 

Bartacus

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Well after fighting with my bloody printer so much I had to 'cool off' for 2 days and walk away from it, I discovered something. I think the E3D Nozzle X that I bought has been contributing to my issues. It was clogged badly (still is actually, LOL). I had to tear down the entire stock hot end to clear things out. Thanks to me doing the Luke Hatfield fix, clearing up a clog is a lot more complicated. You can't just rip out the bowden tube anymore, hence why I tore the entire hot end down. But here's another clue: I bought a second Nozzle X for a buddy, as a thank you gift for letting me pester him with 3d printing questions. He picked it up yesterday. After 5 prints, and only 1 success, he reverted back to his stock brass nozzle. I'm not sure if these E3D steel nozzles have a pre-treating procedure or something, or maybe we got some bad ones, but either way I'm back to stock.

After printing some calibration cubes, and re-levelling everything for the 9 millionth time, here's a print going down with my known "good" filament, Noulei silk purple PLA:


This part of the 1st layer looks pretty clean:


This part does not:


Maybe that was a hiccup in the filament / extrusion, in one corner:




The other end looks pretty sharp, I *think* these are good lines, feel free to correct me:


If this print succeeds, I will be happy. It's less than 6 hours, so I will know tonight if it does (it's a filament spool mod, got me some skateboard bearings to go with it). Now I think I need 10 or 20 disposable nozzles, just in case!!
 

lowfat

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IMO unless you are printing abrasives you don't need a Nozzle X. But it is a steel nozzle, so you need to increase temperatures to compensate for the poor thermal conductivity. Like 15-20C more generally.
 

Bartacus

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IMO unless you are printing abrasives you don't need a Nozzle X. But it is a steel nozzle, so you need to increase temperatures to compensate for the poor thermal conductivity. Like 15-20C more generally.
So THAT'S a key piece of info I missed, D'OH! I bought the nozzle X to print some carbon fibre PETG, and maybe some wood / metal filaments in the future. Had no clue you needed to compensate THAT much for the steel.
 

SugarJ

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Suggestions for a replacement board for my old i3 clone? I can figure out the Marlin config, and hopefully my LCD display will carry over. It does have double Z motors. I'm out of touch on 3D printer stuff as I've been focussing more on my CNC router.
 

lowfat

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Suggestions for a replacement board for my old i3 clone? I can figure out the Marlin config, and hopefully my LCD display will carry over. It does have double Z motors. I'm out of touch on 3D printer stuff as I've been focussing more on my CNC router.
Seems like its hard to go wrong w/ the SKR E3 Mini (w/ TMC2209s), even if you don't have an Ender 3. But I'm not sure about your LCD working. Otherwise can just grab an SKR 1.3/1.4.
 
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