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3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )

sswilson

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Why the hell does Cura allow you to drop your print below the print bed?????????

I'm redoing the long led light mount that i'd done earlier and it needs to be placed exactly right on the bed corner to corner to fit, but during the movement I guess I dropped it a bit below the bed..... an hour or so into the print I'm looking at the supports and thinking it weird that they seemed less beefy than my previous slice, then I noticed that while the "top" (printing upside down on the bed) was a complete layer, it also looked mighty slim when compared to the one I'd done previously....

That's when I realised the print was missing at least 2mm off of the bed........

I've gone back into cura and can see now that it turns the model yellow when it's sitting flat on the bed, but the "lay flat" isn't useful in this situation because it puts the print back to the original orientation which won't fit on the bed......
 

lowfat

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Is this still on the old af version? :whistle:

But the reason is so you can just print the top part of a model if you wish. Lets say you lost power 90% through a part, you could then just print the last 10% by moving the majority of the model below the bed in the slicer.
 

sswilson

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Is this still on the old af version? :whistle:

But the reason is so you can just print the top part of a model if you wish. Lets say you lost power 90% through a part, you could then just print the last 10% by moving the majority of the model below the bed in the slicer.
Nope, 4.4.1...... :)

I guess that makes sense, and again now that I know that I'm looking for the model to turn solid yellow on the bed I'll be careful to not let it happen again. That said.... the newest ender firmware now allows for print recovery after a power failure.

I'll have to give puraslicer another look now that I've got most of my initial prints done. Seems to me it drops flat to the bed by default.

It was also the fact that Cura didn't respect my bed placement when I selected "lay flat" which set me down the wrong path.
 

sswilson

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Ok.... as stated above.... I think I'm done doing printer mods until I decide to tackle the "fang". Here's where we're at.....

Full Front L.jpgFull Rear L.jpgFull Rear R.jpgZ axis knob.jpg

Mods include...

Front : LCD display back cover, Double drawer, Fan guard, RPi case, MS Lifecam mount & lens cover, Filament guide, and there's a black LED strip mount on the top extrusion that doesn't really show up well in the pic.

Rear: Gantry and bed chain as well as a PSU mounted tool kit. You can also make out the noise dampening feet under the rear extrusions (ended up grabbing some silicone anti-slip "pucks" from the dollar store to prevent them from sliding on my desk surface). Lastly on the rear there's also a Z axis screw knob.

The only hardware mod I've done so far is to change the bed leveling springs and that has made a huge difference in how well the bed stays level.

Front panel cable management.jpgRear PSU Cable Management.jpgLED display cable management.jpg

Aside from the printed rear chains I've used an assortment of extrusion covers (listed previously) and various sizes of cable channels.

I wish like hell I could get my hands on a short USB A -> USB mini (I think it's "B") to run from the RPi to the printer input, but since I don't have one, these channels will have to do for keeping the camera & RPi cables relatively neat. On the rear the PSU cables are secured with relatively flat channels while the one closest to the PSU is large enough to allow me to disconnect the PSU -> mainboard plug and remove the PSU without having to disturb the channel. Finally, on the side... most of the display ribbon cable is secured behind the drawers, but the overflow tucked in nicely into the same height cable channels as I used on the PSU cables (You can also see some of the blue covers I used for my LED light cables in that pic).

I'll post up a thread including links to all of the thingiverse builds I used but I don't want to throw those into this Post as I'm not sure how the forums will deal with thingiverse's timeouts.... :)
 
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sswilson

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sswilson

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Those aren't the right cables.... that's a straight up type b which is for peripherals like printers... I think it's a mini-b that we need for the ender (https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A ). I've seen some mini-b -> micro adapters out there and might go that route.

As far as the pi case goes... yeah, not sure if that's the exact one I saw, but was looking at a led display + pi case build the other day as well. :)
 

sswilson

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I don't use glass as its a poor conductor of heat. But I do configure my starting config in my slicer to bring the bed to temp, then hold for 60s before it starts doing the bed mesh.
Now that I've done my initial printer mods I'm going to go back to basics and start looking at things like flow calibration.

My first step in that process is to go back to the original print bed (not glass) as I had good adhesion on it with lower print and bed temps. The only reason I switched initially was that I was having brain farts WRT leveling and thought that maybe the flatter surface of the glass would resolve the issue(s).

Currently printing off my 3 sided cube @ 200/55C vice the 205/65C I needed to get good adhesion on the glass bed and it's looking good so far.
 

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