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3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )

SugarJ

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Keep in mind your temp sensor is in the bed, not the top surface of the glass. You may need 65-70C bed temps to get the surface of the glass to 55C.
 

sswilson

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Keep in mind your temp sensor is in the bed, not the top surface of the glass. You may need 65-70C bed temps to get the surface of the glass to 55C.
Yeah, that's part of the reason I'm giving the stock bed another shot. My thinking is that the stock bed will offer more reliable temps with an added bonus of quicker cool-down times. I'm also curious to see if my "no-print" zone (front/left) follows through to the stock bed.

Just finished doing a second all-in-one test print with very similar results, although I think there was slightly less stringing on the lower filament temp. Only immediate issue that came up (was in both glass and stock prints) was that the top lettering wasn't legible... not sure if that's normal or if it's a matter of having printed in a relatively low res.

Going to do a "3D Benchy" to see how that turns out and then go from there.

edit: Heh.... those layers aren't exactly very forgiving are they??? :) On a more positive note... I think a fresh leveling as well as a surface cleaning did the trick and I didn't have to change temps to get it to properly adhere.... :)
 
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sswilson

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The little boat turned out reasonably well, but of course it's hard to judge how good is "good enough" without a solid benchmark.... no obvious flaws, and I can read the printing although the 3D benchy on the back would be hard to decipher if I didn't already have an idea of what it said. I can definitely see the layers, but I think that's just a function of the resolution I'm printing at. It doesn't look like any of the "over/underextrusion images I've seen online.

That was at .2 with cura, I'm currently doing a .12 using the same cura profile and will see how much of a difference that makes. I'm also going to give Prusaslicer a shot (reloaded the alpha with the baked in Creality settings) as well as the slicer shipped with the printer to see if there's any difference.
 

sswilson

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Nope, spoke too soon. I've got a line on one side of the hull where the flat part of the stern transitions into the curvature of the bow, and it appears to be consistent between the .2 and the .12. It's probably only about as deep as a layer or two.....

L-H stich up hull.jpg

Any ideas? Just off the top of my head I'd be leaning towards one of the axis' not being perfectly aligned, but that's just an outright guess on my part.....

It could easily be filed/sanded down without affecting the profile of the model, but if it's something I can look at hardware wise I'd like to try to get rid of it.

Once the .12 print completes (I could stop it now as I've seen the same flaw on it, but I'd like to get the whole thing done for comparison with the .2 print) I'll probably move the print to a different location on the bed and if the fault moves (or goes away) I'll lean even more heavily towards an alignment issue.

edit: Just testing out my google-fu on this.... is that would would be described as a Z-Seam that's caused by the start/end point of each print layer?

edit 2: I'm guessing it's this setting here???

cura seam settings.jpg
 
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Entz

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That was my first guess when I seen it, since its pretty much in the same place all the way up and everything else looks fine. If you had shifts the curved front of the hull would be all wacky but it isn't

Yes that is the setting. Chep actually has a video on it, its not a prefect science in getting it to hide.

To confirm you can look at the G-Code viewer and see if that is where the start/end of the layer is
 

sswilson

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Ok, that's fine then, just something else to play with down the line, and something to pay attention to when I try the same print in Prusaslicer and/or the creality Cura.

That's part of what makes all of this both interesting and sometimes frustrating... it's often hard to figure out how to define/describe the issue you're having when you don't have a good background/understanding of the basics.

Thanks for setting my mind at ease. :)
 

sswilson

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Prusaslicer on the default settings produced similar quality @ .2, but did it 20 minutes faster. OTOH, the bottom letter detail wasn't as good (cura was actually recessed, prusaslicer wasn't) and my attempt at trying the "random" setting for Z seam resulted in just that.... it spread the imperfections over the entire hull as opposed to having them in a line. I'll try one of the corner settings next time.

Heh... been playing with this thing long enough now that it's started getting a rest overnight for a few days at least. The last 3 weeks it's been running damn near 24/7...... :)
 

lowfat

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Try to find the setting that removes retractions on layer change. And use aligned seam. You can never eliminate the seam, just reduce it.
 

sswilson

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So far Cura (using a profile bundle I found online) seems to be doing a better job at putting out a quality benchy. Just finished off a .12 with it using "sharpest corner" + "hide seam" and I can't find any discernible Z-seam (I think it's split between the two corner seams on the stern) . I can see it on the top chimney but you really have to be looking for it.

I'm also interested in giving Cura's "ironing" a shot.... :)

Got a new "largish" project in sight... going to try this articulating led strip lamp....

 
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sswilson

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Heh.... people claim to have not used any supports, but for the life of me I can't see how they'd do it on certain parts.... guess that's a big part of the learning experience as well... :)
 

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