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3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )

lowfat

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Sooo , i tried the gcode you linked to and had this baby dialed in perfectly and still no go. As soon as it starts printing its too high. I even resliced a the test file to .05 layer thickness and same problem.
I started the return process with Amazon... I think I might order the one from the creality storefront or even look for one with auto leveling.
Raise the Z endstop (is it adjustable on the Ender 3, not not it should be the absolute first mod done). Buying a different printer won't resolve the issue. Using smaller layer thickness is the last thing you want to do. Mesh leveling is probably the best feature on a printer. But you still need to get the first layer height dialed in perfectly. The easiest way to do this is w/ baby stepping. But I'm think you'll need different firmware to get that feature.
 

sswilson

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You can also try printing with a raft while you try to sort out your leveling/adhesion issues. It's a bit of a pain to remove the print from it after the fact, but it provides a sure-fire bed for stuff to stick to. Basically... once you can get that first layer down everything from there should work as advertised.

What temps are you using? I found I needed 205/65 when I was using overture PLA on the creality glass bed.

edit: Also... if you are using the glass bed, maybe try going back to the stock surface (don't forget to re-adjust your limit switch). I ran into a point after about a week where I just couldn't get anything to adhere to the glass surface.... went back to the stock surface, changed up my bed temps, and I was up and printing again (after realising that the small hollow wall parts I was trying to print required a raft no matter how dialed in my leveling/adhesion was).
 
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Entz

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What temps are you using? I found I needed 205/65 when I was using overture PLA on the creality glass bed.
Yes this is definitely something to try. I need to print PLA way hotter than it says like 215. Not sure if this is because of the thermal sensor or just the way the hot end is.

If it’s perfectly level I don’t think it’s z-stop it’s likely just temperature or the glass is too smooth/has a coating . I’m actually curious to see what their sample file, which printed fine, was set to.

edit: if it was added after the yeah the stops may not be perfect and it won’t home properly.
 

sswilson

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Hrmmmm.... so let's print that bloody part a third time.... :(

This time however, I practiced getting the bloody nuts into the body(s) of the previous 2 so I think I've got it down using a heat gun.

Heat up the nut, insert it closely, then center it with a scriber through the screw hole seems to have worked....
I swear... this part is cursed.... I got the first nut in place (or thought I did) and then the bloody screw ended up cross threaded and I couldn't get it back out without taking the print apart......

Plan "B" for the 5'th print..... bumped the part up to 101% scale and will see if the nuts are closer to a drop fit and then check to see if the part still fits on the printer. If not... I'll go back to 100% and keep my fingers crossed when I insert the heated nuts....
 

danmitch1

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Raise the Z endstop (is it adjustable on the Ender 3, not not it should be the absolute first mod done). Buying a different printer won't resolve the issue. Using smaller layer thickness is the last thing you want to do. Mesh leveling is probably the best feature on a printer. But you still need to get the first layer height dialed in perfectly. The easiest way to do this is w/ baby stepping. But I'm think you'll need different firmware to get that feature.
I had played for hours trying different levels of the Z stop switch and that didnt help. Its almost like there is a z offset but there isnt? If there is a setting I cant find it... I also do have the baby stepping but having to do that each time I send a print is a bit annoying, I feel like its risky too since you have to do it while its printing.

You can also try printing with a raft while you try to sort out your leveling/adhesion issues. It's a bit of a pain to remove the print from it after the fact, but it provides a sure-fire bed for stuff to stick to. Basically... once you can get that first layer down everything from there should work as advertised.

What temps are you using? I found I needed 205/65 when I was using overture PLA on the creality glass bed.

edit: Also... if you are using the glass bed, maybe try going back to the stock surface (don't forget to re-adjust your limit switch). I ran into a point after about a week where I just couldn't get anything to adhere to the glass surface.... went back to the stock surface, changed up my bed temps, and I was up and printing again (after realising that the small hollow wall parts I was trying to print required a raft no matter how dialed in my leveling/adhesion was).
Ive been printing with the raft all along too, I thought you had to ?
I was using 200 - 60c temps. There is something off though, If I watch the Z axis when it starts to print a .1mm first layer, the nozzel is at .3mm on the Z. Does it need to be .3mm high to print a .1mm bead (on the first level).

Yes this is definitely something to try. I need to print PLA way hotter than it says like 215. Not sure if this is because of the thermal sensor or just the way the hot end is.

If it’s perfectly level I don’t think it’s z-stop it’s likely just temperature or the glass is too smooth/has a coating . I’m actually curious to see what their sample file, which printed fine, was set to.

edit: if it was added after the yeah the stops may not be perfect and it won’t home properly.
Ill try raising the temps and see what happens. Ill attach the gcode for the sample file if I can find the original one I didnt modify in my testing lol.

I also find the steppers are making odd noises now, the bed is all scratched up from my trail and error. Oh my..
 

danmitch1

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I swear... this part is cursed.... I got the first nut in place (or thought I did) and then the bloody screw ended up cross threaded and I couldn't get it back out without taking the print apart......

Plan "B" for the 5'th print..... bumped the part up to 101% scale and will see if the nuts are closer to a drop fit and then check to see if the part still fits on the printer. If not... I'll go back to 100% and keep my fingers crossed when I insert the heated nuts....
I was reading for threads you are better off tapping them after its printed no?
 

sswilson

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No, not the same thing. It's a slot in the printed piece that a standard hex nut is supposed to slide into (like this https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Print-captured-nuts-without-pausing-your-print/ ) to provide strong metal threads internal to the print, but in this case, the nuts are too big for the slot. I don't know if the design is off (I doubt it... it's a major design that everybody and their dog uses) or for some reason my printing is off in spite of getting a decent 20mm calibration cube measurement.

One of the things I did notice is that the nuts I have are right on the upper edge of industry tolerance specs, so maybe that's a part of my problem as well.
 

Entz

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I had played for hours trying different levels of the Z stop switch and that didnt help. Its almost like there is a z offset but there isnt? If there is a setting I cant find it... I also do have the baby stepping but having to do that each time I send a print is a bit annoying, I feel like its risky too since you have to do it while its printing.
There are actually Z-Offsets in the firmware (or at least Marlin) but your slicer can override anything it wants really.

I am at a loss as to why if you do the 6 position leveling it isn't at 0 when it homes. Since the whole point of that thing is Move to top left corner at Z 0.

I would consider hooking it up to a PC if you havent and use the home button and see where that is relative to the bed: Once homed, move it X ways using the slicer controls (or Octo if your using it) and see how close it is to the bed.
 

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