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3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )

danmitch1

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There are actually Z-Offsets in the firmware (or at least Marlin) but your slicer can override anything it wants really.

I am at a loss as to why if you do the 6 position leveling it isn't at 0 when it homes. Since the whole point of that thing is Move to top left corner at Z 0.

I would consider hooking it up to a PC if you havent and use the home button and see where that is relative to the bed: Once homed, move it X ways using the slicer controls (or Octo if your using it) and see how close it is to the bed.
It homes to z 0, as soon as it prints it moves up too much.. Ive been fighting with it for a total of 9 hours since :O
 

Entz

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If it homes to 0 (actually not display) and when you move it over to the bed it is tight light when you leveled then its the slicer doing it.
 

lowfat

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I had played for hours trying different levels of the Z stop switch and that didnt help. Its almost like there is a z offset but there isnt? If there is a setting I cant find it... I also do have the baby stepping but having to do that each time I send a print is a bit annoying, I feel like its risky too since you have to do it while its printing.
Well keep lowering the z limit switch until it prints @ the correct height.

Baby stepping should only be used once after you level a bed. Then never again. Its just a Z-offset where you can do it during a print so you can dial in the height absolutely perfect. I've read the Creality babystepping is bad, but maybe this is fixed. It should have steps in the 0.0x mm range.
 
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danmitch1

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If it homes to 0 (actually not display) and when you move it over to the bed it is tight light when you leveled then its the slicer doing it.
yeah, thats the weird part. Even if it homes to Z 0, I see it move up when the printing begins and on the display while printing the first layer its at .3 on the Z.
Well keep raising the z limit switch until it prints @ the correct height.

Baby stepping should only be used once after you level a bed. Then never again. Its just a Z-offset where you can do it during a print so you can dial in the height absolutely perfect. I've read the Creality babystepping is bad, but maybe this is fixed. It should have steps in the 0.0x mm range.
Raising the switch would make it further from the bed though, you mean drop the z switch more?
The baby steps thing I only seem to have access to during printing, afaikt..
I think I messed it up somehow, like I was saying it moves up as soon at printing is initiated..
 

Entz

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Can you post something you sliced? Or at least look at the top. I am wondering if there is a something like
M206 or G92 Z### in there.
 

sswilson

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What if you scaled down the model a smidgen? to fit the hexnut
Gotta go the other way.... the printed hole is too small for the nut so I scaled the print up by 1%. That wasn't enough to make it an easy drop/push fit, but it looks like it was enough that I can file the slot walls a bit and get the nuts in. I've got the two hardest ones done so far (one of the slots wasn't even a 90deg... it was offset a bit and entered the print like a secret pyramid tunnel.... :) ) so I'm hopeful that I'll be successful this time around. :)

Of course... then it will be time to ensure that it still fits to the print head.... :)
 

lowfat

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yeah, thats the weird part. Even if it homes to Z 0, I see it move up when the printing begins and on the display while printing the first layer its at .3 on the Z.


Raising the switch would make it further from the bed though, you mean drop the z switch more?
The baby steps thing I only seem to have access to during printing, afaikt..
I think I messed it up somehow, like I was saying it moves up as soon at printing is initiated..
Yes sorry.

You can only do baby stepping during a print. But you don't do it every print. Just once until you get the perfect first layer height. Then its done.

If it is raising to 0.3mm, then there is a z-offset in the slicer or on the printer. Not sure what slicer you are using, but in PrusaSlicer, in layer view you can see the exact height of each layer. So if its the slicer, you could see there.
 

sswilson

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Finally manage to get the petsfang installed, but I'm going to reprint the duct to match the extra scale I gave to the base. It fits on the 101% print but the blower fan mounting slot had to be filed down for it to fit, and the M2 holes for the blower screws are obviously too small.

On another note.... with this installed, it really makes my hot end look like it's not mounted straight, but the petsfang base looks like it's square to the top rail.... once I'm done this print I'll get a closer look at it to see if the head is square or if it's just a matter of adjusting the mounting screws.
 

sswilson

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Reprinted, and seems to fit fine.

Bullseye base.jpg
Bullseye duct full.jpg
Bullseye nozzle closup.jpg

Looking at the pics, I realised that I didn't file down the support leavings.... functional, but at some point I'll drop it down and clean it up a bit. I went to use my spare blower fan (I ordered a set when I needed to replace the heatsink fan) for fitting size and noticed that the mounting frame isn't the same as what's on the fan that's installed on the printer... It's significantly wider so now I see why the duct is printed the way it is... sacrificial mount plastic that can relatively easily be filed down to account for variations in different fan lots.

I also did my best to square up the hot end with the bed... I'm assuming having it off by enough that it was visible to the eye was probably affecting leveling and the quality of initial layer.

Got some stringing going on there, but I believe that's one of the things the bullseye is supposed to help with (along with better cooling for more consistent bridging and overhang).


 
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danmitch1

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Reprinted, and seems to fit fine.

View attachment 28015
View attachment 28016
View attachment 28017

Looking at the pics, I realised that I didn't file down the support leavings.... functional, but at some point I'll drop it down and clean it up a bit. I went to use my spare blower fan (I ordered a set when I needed to replace the heatsink fan) for fitting size and noticed that the mounting frame isn't the same as what's on the fan that's installed on the printer... It's significantly wider so now I see why the duct is printed the way it is... sacrificial mount plastic that can relatively easily be filed down to account for variations in different fan lots.

I also did my best to square up the hot end with the bed... I'm assuming having it off by enough that it was visible to the eye was probably affecting leveling and the quality of initial layer.

Got some stringing going on there, but I believe that's one of the things the bullseye is supposed to help with (along with better cooling for more consistent bridging and overhang).
That is pretty neat. Have you tried it to see if it helps with your prints?
 

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