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Air Intake for new build with AIO

freeagent

Active member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
39
Location
Winnipeg, Canada
If it were me, I would have the rad up top, drawing cool air from up there, the fronts would be pulling in cool air, and a strong fan for exhaust. And in this instance, I would probably try running without the pci covers. In my current case I have 4 in 2 out. Works great, but I am moving many cfm's.
 

Lysrin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
3,228
Location
Nova Scotia
I had a dual 360 rad both in push/pull setup. Seems since the site changed all my old photos are gone hehe. I ran rad to rad to cpu to motherboard to vid back to rads. 12 fans on the rads. 2 intake on the front for hard drives and motherboard. Single exhaust. Even a dual or triple AIO with push/pull should easily keep an overclocked cpu under 60 no problem.

Like I say... I pumped as much room air into my computer as possible and had incredibly low temps. My idle temps in winter were 20c average. Vid card never went over 40-50c. About a year ago Lowfat and myself posted on a long thread about this very discussion and we both pretty much proved to everyone that lower temps come from more fresh air and positive pressure.

Running more exhaust than intake is called negative pressure and it just doesn't work as well. I guarantee that hot air will be forced out of the case through every conceivable hole in the case including the exhaust fan. It's definitely worth trying. Personally I only do one exhaust and everything else in basically forcing the hot air out in any direction it wants to go.

One of these would work to get a basic inside temp https://www.amazon.ca/Thermometer-Temperature-Aquarium-Incubator-Greenhouse/dp/B07TXPYKMK/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=led+temperature+sensor&qid=1569003527&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Dazmode has some stuff and there's other USB type stuff on amazon for cheap.
Busy weekend, just seeing this now. Thanks for the extra info clshades.
 

dave343

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
15
I swapped out the Gigabyte Master for a MSI Gaming Pro Carbon, temps were good but I didn't noticed until last night MSI is pumping 1.48v just at Idle in bios and windows. Yikes... but temps are my mentioned 57-58 gaming, 60ish prime, and 38c idle... so this is odd but whatever. I then updated to the latest BIOS from MSI, dated Sept 18th... I believe. PC would then NOT post. Finally got it to post through multiple power resets, and CMOS clearing. Left BIOS settings stock, let it boot into 10, and everything, I mean everything wanted to reinstall. Was greeted with super low res, device manager listed a lot of the devices as unknown and started to re-install the drivers for everything. I have to say, I don't think I've encounted this behavior before when flashing a newer BIOS, but after the video card, sound, nic's, mobo chip-set, etc reinstalled itself, it was good. Then I went back into the BIOS and turned the XMP profile back on. It was ON and working OK before the bios update. Set the XMP profile to on, 3600 c18, save restarted... nothing. Will not post. Weird... went through the reset CMOS again, finally booted back up to default values, re-enabled XMP, again no post! Arg! It was fine before the BIOS update. As a side note, looks like MSI is only pumping 1.4v now to the 3700x... I guess that's better, I know I could set thing manually but just haven't yet. This XMP Profile thing is frustrating, but at least my temps are still under control and good.
 
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