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ASUS - Chassis Intruded FIXED!

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Lpfan4ever

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rrrake, as a new member you should be expecting us to assume you don't know much. It's just safer that way for us to assume that, as well as being true for most new members. If someone new came onto here not really knowing stuff, and we told them to go solder their motherboard instead of pulling the battery, that would be giving terrible advice. We have no way to know what you can/can't do unless you tell us. (Which you didn't)

In addition I am not trying to be a dick..
I'm calling bullshit on that! :bleh:
 

rrrake

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Look, may I just say that not everybody who comes across this will have done extensive googling. For all we know someone might find this before being told to pull the battery. In addition not everybody has a soldering iron or knows how to use it; this can lead to people desperately trying other ways of getting it done and that can result in damage. Even people who can kinda wield an iron may not be very experienced and tend to overheat parts.

I would suggest that you instruct to pull the battery first and then break out the soldering iron as plan B. Just to cover all bases.

In addition I am not trying to be a dick..

But I generally advise against dinking with random jumpers. They are on the board for a reason and if you need extras then grab one from a dead drive or dead board. Better yet remove them from dead drives and boards before you recycle them and keep a stash of jumpers, both the larger common ones and also the ittybitty ones they used to use on old SCSI drives and whatnot.
I'm not sure how that isn't being a dick but I'll take your word for it.

But really, would you expect pulling out a jumper from a board would trip this, causing the board to not post? I assumed when I put it back it would be the same, it didn't have power.

I'm trying to NOT packrat my hardware these days, its rare when I actually need a jumper.



I guess I maybe have too much faith in some people, this is a out of warranty nothing else works fix, fix. I figured that was obvious when I posted it, but maybe I shouldn't assume anything.

But, I don't know anyone willing to solder a wire onto a board before they have tried EVERYTHING else possible? If you are reading this reader, and you are that person, TRY EVERYTHING ELSE POSSIBLE FIRST, PLEASE. But if it doesn't work. Soldering that wire WILL work.
 

sswilson

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Heh... now simmer down folks.... ;)

Points given and taken on all sides, let's either play nice in this particular sandbox, or find another corner of the playground to hang out in for a while.... :)
 

KaptCrunch

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solder less method

But, I don't know anyone willing to solder a wire onto a board before they have tried EVERYTHING else possible? If you are reading this reader, and you are that person, TRY EVERYTHING ELSE POSSIBLE FIRST, PLEASE. But if it doesn't work. Soldering that wire WILL work.
but iron must be a ESD type of soldering iron, if not kiss MB goodbye for non-ESD iron

will introduce Vac to circuits from tip.

best is just strip some copper strand wire and take a few strands and wrap around pins to connect

and cover with electricial tape if have no jumpers
 

rrrake

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but iron must be a ESD type of soldering iron, if not kiss MB goodbye for non-ESD iron

will introduce Vac to circuits from tip.

best is just strip some copper strand wire and take a few strands and wrap around pins to connect

and cover with electricial tape if have no jumpers
Good advice, thanks!
 

Unclocked

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Apr 7, 2012
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i am a motion designer and effects compositor and as such i have a custom build pc... first of to the OP ignore all the negative comments because only the people that really got this problem in these mother boards (mine being a p5e3 deluxe) can know how frustraded they have been. this is not the same fix as a clear cmos to reset its hardware configuration because in this case its the winbond chip that is the hardware problem. further it has to do with any high frequency signal and the way it locks the binary answer to each property. so clearing cmos or removing battery or any of the firmware is pretty dumb when the problem starts before and ends after the cmos. thats why you can boot up your system on default only once after a clear cmos. then the nvram reads one time and writes down the intrusion after powering up again. i have been considering removing the s72 but your fix has a lot of sense to it.. just tell us what to solder to what! i deeply thank you for this info.
 

KaptCrunch

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USE A JUMPER (CHICKLET) TO SHORT those 2 pins on intrusion header

for the smoked connection, you just lost your 5vSB power by shortting 5v to ground

mite be the trace cooked or PSU circuit
 

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Cskistad

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Sep 4, 2012
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Unlike The god himself, supergroover, i think the idea of the treadstarter is very good. I built my very first pc last night. And it took me about 60 min to find out that only to remove the batteri, dosent help at all at my model with chassis intrusion alert. And i didnt even know what a jumper was! Well, im a new member. And new members will only be told things once. So i guess we wont hear from the allmighty supergrover again. My solution was entering bios setup, and disable the feauture from there.
Anyway! Thanks for the great tread. And if the allmighty one reads this, please feel free to stick to your "only say once" policy.
 
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