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Ender 3 V2 versus Anycubic Mega S

vulcan500rider

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Nov 28, 2007
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558
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Regina, SK
Thanks, sswilson!

I actually pulled the trigger on a V2 at about $380. I also picked up a kit with some basic upgrades (springs, extruder pieces, bowden tubing, aluminum thumbscrews) for about $35, figuring that I might as well build it the first time with the upgraded bits and pieces. Naturally, the V2 is slated to show up today, but the kit won't get here until Monday... :( I'm excited to get building!
 

vulcan500rider

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Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
558
Location
Regina, SK
Thought I'd offer a bit of an update.

My Ender 3 V2 arrived in good time (and great packaging; wow!). I got it all set up, including some replacement springs, bowden tube, and aluminum extruder parts that I bought as a package. The only disappointing part was that I thought the kit I bought came with a new coupler for the nozzle, but it turns out that that was just the coupler for the extruder. Oh well, perhaps I'll get to the other one at some point in the future.

The build process went fairly well, though it's a good thing there are Youtube videos out there to assist. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors was my go-to for most of it, though I took in a few vids on bed levelling, in particular.

Once I got it all together, I couldn't get anything to adhere to the bed. I tried with both PETG and PLA, and relevelled probably half a dozen times, but the nozzle would just drag the line of filament around and ball it up. I cleaned it, played with the heat settings, and relevelled some more, and eventually I got the little test dog to print in PLA (I had to do it twice--two kids that each wanted one) and the second one still had some trouble with adhesion, though the first had worked fine. PETG was also still a complete no-go.

I eventually gave in and tried a gluestick...it didn't really work. Then I upped the ante a bit and went with painter's tape and it did exactly what I needed it to do--so maybe my nozzle is still a touch high (though I tried a z-offset and that didn't seem to make a difference, so maybe it is just the surface; I don't know).

Anyway, with the two little dogs out of the way, I've now also printed two of the plastic pieces pictured. They're the backs for a drawer-slide system that broke in my dresser and prompted me to start looking at 3D printing in the first place. Buying replacements would have been about $50 for a set, which I thought was crazy. Clearly, spending $400 on a 3D printer was a much more sensible choice :)

Print.jpg
 

lowfat

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Feb 12, 2007
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Can you post a pic of the bottom of the part? Have you done an extrusion test to make sure you are pushing the right amount of filament?
 

vulcan500rider

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Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
558
Location
Regina, SK
Can you post a pic of the bottom of the part? Have you done an extrusion test to make sure you are pushing the right amount of filament?

Is that what the stringiness is about? No, I haven't done an extrusion test yet. There was virtually no stringing with the PLA dogs I printed, if that helps at all.

print2.jpg
 

lowfat

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Messages
10,710
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Grande Prairie, AB
There should be no gaps between the lines of plastic on the surface. A lot of issues are caused by the first layer not being close enough to the bed. So if you can post the bottom of the part, we can tell if you need to be closer or not.
 

vulcan500rider

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Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
558
Location
Regina, SK
You were bang-on. Thank you! Apparently I was under-extruding by about 10%. It is now fixed, and while I haven't printed anything, it actually looks different when the filament is coming out of the nozzle now; it's much more of a straight fall instead of curling.
 

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