Feedback / Suggestions on a C$3k Build
- Thread starter Strato
- Start date
It was the rear panel bios flashback button that was being held down by the rear IO panel. You don't have a separate rear IO panel so it's probably not the issue, but just check to make sure the button on the rear panel feels like it's spring loaded and not stuck depressed.
On another note.... what's the cmos reset on that? Is it just a pair of pins that you short out, or is it 3 pins that you move a jumper over on? If it's 3 pins, make sure you don't have the jumper on the wrong two pins.
Strato
Well-known member
@sswilson Ah, thanks for clarifying regarding the flashback button. I don't think it is stuck depressed but will double-check that when I get home. Of note, I did use that button when I updated the flash so perhaps it stayed stuck or partially stuck.
The CMOS reset is the two-pin style that I short out with the tip of my screwdriver.
A colleague of mine who builds PCs for a living suggested that sometimes RAM issues (even if I am not getting a RAM warning LED) can potentially cause the types of power-up problems I'm having. So I will double-check RAM as well. However, I'd need to remove my CPU cooler to do that since the cooler sits above them.
The CMOS reset is the two-pin style that I short out with the tip of my screwdriver.
A colleague of mine who builds PCs for a living suggested that sometimes RAM issues (even if I am not getting a RAM warning LED) can potentially cause the types of power-up problems I'm having. So I will double-check RAM as well. However, I'd need to remove my CPU cooler to do that since the cooler sits above them.
I am curious, you keep mentioning Asus, but the board you bought is Gigabyte? I don't think it would let you flash the incorrect BIOS anyway, but make sure you are on the right site 
And did you hookup both the 4pin and 8pin CPU power?
And did you hookup both the 4pin and 8pin CPU power?
Strato
Well-known member
@JD – Sorry, that's a brain cramp on my part. The board is Gigabyte and the GPU is Asus. And I definitely flashed the correct BIOS (fair question, though! LOL). And yes regarding CPU power. Per your earlier request, I'll attach some photos below.
Current update: The Ethernet / WiFi problem has mysteriously gone away. No idea why, though I did swap ethernet cables today – though why that also fixed the WiFi issue is beyond me (WiFi stayed fixed even after I removed the ethernet cable). Ethernet / WiFi functionality remained working even after a full power-down and re-boot cycle, so that is encouraging.
With Internet available, I downloaded Gigabyte Control Center and through it all the board-related drivers. The Performance panel of GCC doesn't show any issues. I'm able to control fan speed, RGB colours, etc. I was also able to re-start Windows without problem.
The power-up problem remains, though. I have to reset the CMOS to get it to power up. One oddity, though: on my last power-up attempt the system (pre-Windows) displayed a new 'boot failure' screen that I hadn't seen before. I selected the top option and it booted into Windows without any problems. Previously, it either went straight into the BIOS or straight into Windows. FYI, the 'optimized defaults' is the preset that I was referring to previously.
Here's the 'boot failure' message:
And here's some photos of the motherboard and rear of the case. I've downsized these to 1024 px wide. Let me know if any would be useful at full resolution. I'm happy to take additional / zoomed-in photos of anything else if it would be helpful. Please excuse my sloppy cable management – wasn't great to start with and then I've made it worse by my fiddling as I try to check everything (at least, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!).
Current update: The Ethernet / WiFi problem has mysteriously gone away. No idea why, though I did swap ethernet cables today – though why that also fixed the WiFi issue is beyond me (WiFi stayed fixed even after I removed the ethernet cable). Ethernet / WiFi functionality remained working even after a full power-down and re-boot cycle, so that is encouraging.
With Internet available, I downloaded Gigabyte Control Center and through it all the board-related drivers. The Performance panel of GCC doesn't show any issues. I'm able to control fan speed, RGB colours, etc. I was also able to re-start Windows without problem.
The power-up problem remains, though. I have to reset the CMOS to get it to power up. One oddity, though: on my last power-up attempt the system (pre-Windows) displayed a new 'boot failure' screen that I hadn't seen before. I selected the top option and it booted into Windows without any problems. Previously, it either went straight into the BIOS or straight into Windows. FYI, the 'optimized defaults' is the preset that I was referring to previously.
Here's the 'boot failure' message:
And here's some photos of the motherboard and rear of the case. I've downsized these to 1024 px wide. Let me know if any would be useful at full resolution. I'm happy to take additional / zoomed-in photos of anything else if it would be helpful. Please excuse my sloppy cable management – wasn't great to start with and then I've made it worse by my fiddling as I try to check everything (at least, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!).
Bond007
Well-known member
Based on your description and the pop up I am going to say it is a bios setting. Potentially a common cause is related to memory. Maybe ddr5 “memory training” that isn’t quite holding after a reboot.
Have you tried xmp/expo memory profile, or leaving ram at stock?
If you have been leaving it stock, try enabling the xmp/expo profile. If you have been enabling, try disabling.
Have you tried xmp/expo memory profile, or leaving ram at stock?
If you have been leaving it stock, try enabling the xmp/expo profile. If you have been enabling, try disabling.
Strato
Well-known member
It also sounds like it might be a SSD issue. I'd suggest trying everything with just your main OS drive installed (You'll probably have to re-install Windows).
Strato
Well-known member
Those CPU power cables should split apart, but if you're certain the extra 4pin isn't touching anything then I suppose it's okay.
When installing the heatsink, did it seem like it was making contact with anything beside the CPU itself? Kind of seems like there's a short somewhere since the behaviour seems to change as you move cables around on the I/O area.
Noticed the CPU fan header doesn't have anything plugged into it either, are you just relying on the case's fan hub entirely?
Really strange behaviour though...
When installing the heatsink, did it seem like it was making contact with anything beside the CPU itself? Kind of seems like there's a short somewhere since the behaviour seems to change as you move cables around on the I/O area.
Noticed the CPU fan header doesn't have anything plugged into it either, are you just relying on the case's fan hub entirely?
Really strange behaviour though...
