xentr_theme_editor

  • Please do not post any links until you have 3 posts as they will automatically be rejected to prevent SPAM. Many words are also blocked due to being used in SPAM Messages. Thanks!

Help finding something for new desk build

xentr_thread_starter
JUST looked at those countertops.... given that it says you can cut them to any length you want, and cover the cut end with some edging they provide, it SOUNDS as though they're fairly solid, rather than some of their other products that are somewhat hollow, so they might be fairly anti-sag as-is, depending on what that "solid" material actually is. Unfortunately, knowing how a lot of Ikea stuff is put together, I wouldn't count on it.....

Honestly not really worried about the 74" one too much, but that 98" one is long and will have my monitor and a second monitor and possible my rig on it too. Plus printer and who knows what else. And really this came up from some people complaining that they have gotten sag with Karlby and other Ikea countertops. So this is more of a forward thinking do it while I am in the middle of building instead of after once I notice a sag. The countertops themselves are a 1.5" thick particle board and are solid throughout.

That said, if I don't find what I want/need in time for me to be building the desk (new floors and painting has to be finished first) then I will just build without it and add after.
 
You could just use a 1.5" x 1.5" L- angle made in steel or aluminum, but that will project down where your knees are. I'd rather use a thinner C-channel like I linked or a small square tube.
 
Honestly not really worried about the 74" one too much, but that 98" one is long and will have my monitor and a second monitor and possible my rig on it too. Plus printer and who knows what else.

Understandable, BUT how close to the front, or even the middle of those countertops would you likely park that stuff? Again, if the weight of the monitors is most likely at the back, you have legs back there, and if you park your rig over top of the end where the drawers are, that's not a problem there either..... all depends on your likely positioning of those items.

And really this came up from some people complaining that they have gotten sag with Karlby and other Ikea countertops. So this is more of a forward thinking do it while I am in the middle of building instead of after once I notice a sag.

Definitely the preferred method. (y)

The countertops themselves are a 1.5" thick particle board and are solid throughout.

That plays into what I said about Ikea stuff..... knowing what their "particleboard" is often made up of, it's not necessarily trustworthy with a bunch of weight. I'm sure some of their stuff is more robust than others, and what you're getting is better than what my wife got for her similar, albeit smaller, setup, i.e. when assembling that stuff, I found out that she got countertops that have solid perimeters, and a lot of junk, and/or hollow spaces in the middle, which makes it challenging to fasten things in some spots. :rolleyes:

That said, if I don't find what I want/need in time for me to be building the desk (new floors and painting has to be finished first) then I will just build without it and add after.

Hopefully before any sag sets in.

You could just use a 1.5" x 1.5" L- angle made in steel or aluminum, but that will project down where your knees are.

Like I suggested earlier. ;)

I'd rather use a thinner C-channel like I linked or a small square tube.

That 2nd one DOES seem like a real good option. (y)
 
xentr_thread_starter
Ok so it has been a little bit and well renos are still happening just at the finishing touches and painting. Will be building desk next Sat/Sun.

So I think I will just do the L angle and then put a rubber edge trim on it or something. So here is another render (this time the actual correct L direction) and this shows a single piece of steel and I have to decide if I will cut it down or leave it how it is and have it connecting to both.
 

Attachments

  • Desk render 4.webp
    Desk render 4.webp
    90.1 KB · Views: 5
I'd leave it long and connect it to both. Those plates tend to work loose after time, that will help stop it flexing at the joint.
 
xentr_thread_starter
Just realized I never showed what it turned out like.

Finished desk with nothing but a couple things.
PXL_20250923_205956964.webp

Another when I am actually using it for work (hence the blacked out screens)
PXL_20250926_142102333.MP-edit.webp

And then the kitty has already made the bed her own, best supervisor ever.
PXL_20250926_205939270.webp
 
Nice setup! (y) And like I previously said, it appears, at least at this point, that you have the bulk of the weight closer to the back side of the desk, and therefore generally supported by the legs. Having said that, given how long that is, I can definitely see why the concern about potential sag. So, did you add in some metal angle underneath, with some rubber 'knee-saver' strip?
 
xentr_thread_starter
Nice setup! (y) And like I previously said, it appears, at least at this point, that you have the bulk of the weight closer to the back side of the desk, and therefore generally supported by the legs. Having said that, given how long that is, I can definitely see why the concern about potential sag. So, did you add in some metal angle underneath, with some rubber 'knee-saver' strip?
Yup, just a piece of angle and then a rubber strip to save the legs. The annoying part is I meant to grab the 1.25" x 1.25" but somehow grabbed the 1.5" one. Being 96" long returning it as just too annoying so I used it. It would have been nice to have been a quarter inch shorter, but it works and I'm generally happy with it.

I'll take another picture once I have my cable organizers setup and then people will be able to see the underside.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top