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Hot temperatures!

xbournex

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Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
114
Yeah there's a BitFenix 200mm on the roof that's going at about 450 RPM. Can't get it to go any faster, but due to the design of the case it's kind of blocked as well... It gets some airflow through just not the whole fan, and much lol.

If a 200mm one is fine I'll go BitFenix for the front since this is a BitFenix case and all, it should fit.
To note I only have two places for fans; Front and back. The roof came with its own fan.

Our Spectre 200mm fans (Not Spectre Pro) run at 700rpm. Is the fan connected to the power supply or the motherboard?
With a 32-36 ambient temp, I would assume if you mounted the heatsink properly, idle temps would be around low 40's. Another 30-40 degrees on top, due to stress usage, I would find very acceptable. Not going to get any lower than that, unless you increase airflow/get air conditioning.
 
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
16
Where you at? With ambient Temps that warm its going to be tough to cool, as said populate all spots in your Case with Fans......my Silverstone has 4x120mm Case Fans and I added another 140mm Intake Fan to the mix.

If your ambient Temps are constantly that high due to where you live, may want to consider WC.
Ambient is high so that is a limiting factor too. Maybe the OP needs to consider one of those doublethink All in one WC units like the H80
Can't do much about the ambient temperatures unfortunately. Water Cooling is neato but from the reviews and that I saw, the Frio beats a low end water cooling system (Kuhler 620, etc.) and I'm not sure if I'm up for spending a lotta money to get a system I'm going to have no clue how to use.
This case can only support the single fan water cooling from the looks of it, too. (So Corsair Hydro H100 wouldn't fit)
I mean I suppose if it's a garunteed to push it down some difference I could save up... but to be honest the Frio was supposed to be good in all reviews as well and it's not living up to its standards for me. With this temperature and a case not so great in cooling I don't blame it though.

And yes, populate the last fan slot at the back. regardless.
Aye aye, Captain! I was thinking of putting in the 'Scythe 120mm Ultra Kaze 3000RPM Fan' for the back, so that way the RPM is faster than the Frio so it doesn't cause any troubles.

Our Spectre 200mm fans (Not Spectre Pro) run at 700rpm. Is the fan connected to the power supply or the motherboard?
To the motherboard.
With a 32-36 ambient temp, I would assume if you mounted the heatsink properly, idle temps would be around low 40's. Another 30-40 degrees on top, due to stress usage, I would find very acceptable. Not going to get any lower than that, unless you increase airflow/get air conditioning.
Yeah that's pretty much how it is, temperature wise. I want to keep it under 65 is all. I may be able to do that with the addition of fans, but I suppose I didn't pick the best case for cooling too...
 

Dragonstongue

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Sep 15, 2011
Messages
551
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Brockville, ON
umm, I wouldnt be using a 450w to power that rig, yes they are gentle on power, but that is also not leaving much room, that and it is by no means a "quality power supply"

TIM is thermal paste, I use artic silver 5 or now I use MX4 which I find better.

For the fans, one blowing in from front, one exhausting out the back where your cpu cooler is blowing to, and the one on top blowing in. Its about trying to find as much air as you can, stuff it in, and keeping it smooth, positive airflow.

As far as the fan in the back, it would be best to have a fan that is slightly more powerfull then the fans you have in there. a Sythe slipstream 110 cfm would work well enough.

Generally you do not want to push to much air at the fans on the cpu as it would cause them to overwork, but for the fan in the rear, its trying to suck the air out, so you want a good volume or CFM of air leaving the case, but more being stuffed into it.

I have a raven 3 case, and love it, excellent cooling, and tons of room.

But I would reseat the cpu cooler, and do not put much TIM on it, just a small dot in the dead center of it, and let the heatsink squish it down, to much or to little thermalpaste can cause the temperatures to be high.

Also, in your bios, make sure the fans on the heatsink are spinning as much as they are capable, if you have for example an asus board, and you go into the bios, it has the option of having the fans spin slower or full out, I would let them spin fulll out by disabling the Q fan forcing them to go as fast as they can, this should help.
 

invisibleninja06

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Joined
Dec 10, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Brome, Quebec
like others have mentioned, populating fans is a must when running high end components, fill that front intake and put the rear 120 and see how the temp lower. CoreTemp is a good mention as its temps are usually more accurate. You mentioned cable management and in my experience spending a couple minutes cleaning up wire mess can not only help your temps but make dust cleaning easier. I hope you solve your issue.
 

Silent_Avenger

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Nov 18, 2011
Messages
464
Location
Toronto
I probably wouldn't use a 3k rpm fan for your rear exhaust It'll get annoyingly loud. 1800-2000rpm should be more than sufficient. Plug that 200mm fan directly to your power supply using a molex to 3pin adapter and it will run at it's rated speed since your motherboard may be throttling it based on temps. Also upgrade the psu when you can TT isn't great in terms of quality for power supplies. Possibly bump up to 600w but 550w minimum. Yes since your comp runs much cooler with the side panel off your case will limit your cooling capacity. The only harm from running the comp without the side panel is lots of dust and possibly damaging parts if anyone/anything decides to play around inside your computer.
 

Soultribunal

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Can't do much about the ambient temperatures unfortunately. Water Cooling is neato but from the reviews and that I saw, the Frio beats a low end water cooling system (Kuhler 620, etc.) and I'm not sure if I'm up for spending a lotta money to get a system I'm going to have no clue how to use.
This case can only support the single fan water cooling from the looks of it, too. (So Corsair Hydro H100 wouldn't fit)
I mean I suppose if it's a garunteed to push it down some difference I could save up... but to be honest the Frio was supposed to be good in all reviews as well and it's not living up to its standards for me. With this temperature and a case not so great in cooling I don't blame it though.


Aye aye, Captain! I was thinking of putting in the 'Scythe 120mm Ultra Kaze 3000RPM Fan' for the back, so that way the RPM is faster than the Frio so it doesn't cause any troubles.


To the motherboard.

Yeah that's pretty much how it is, temperature wise. I want to keep it under 65 is all. I may be able to do that with the addition of fans, but I suppose I didn't pick the best case for cooling too...

The FRIO will only beat a Low end WC sealed unit when its Given AMPLE air to do so.
The H80 is a double thick double pass RAD that is designed to maximize cooling in less than ideal Airflow situations.
It will do better than the FRIO for sure.
That being said , I would pull the Spectre off of the MB and run it full speed via direct to PSU. THe Ultra KAZE is a very loud but fast fan. You don't like noise but you might change your mind running one of those full speed.
Otherwise get all the fan slots set, and running max and see where it stands from there.

-ST
 

Ernimus Prime

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Jan 7, 2011
Messages
855
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia
I have a i5 2500K and I am using a Zalman cool quite at about 1000 RPM. and Temp is running 20-21 C. I used Arctic Silver 5. I recommend reinstalling using a good compound. And dont over do it. Use a bout a pea size amount on the CPU and install the Cooler.
 

enaberif

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Dec 9, 2006
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11,412
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Calgahree, AB
I have a i5 2500K and I am using a Zalman cool quite at about 1000 RPM. and Temp is running 20-21 C. I used Arctic Silver 5. I recommend reinstalling using a good compound. And dont over do it. Use a bout a pea size amount on the CPU and install the Cooler.

Unless your ambient is like 5 degrees there is no way your cpu is running at 20-21 degrees unless its under some crazy cooler.
 
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
16
I probably wouldn't use a 3k rpm fan for your rear exhaust It'll get annoyingly loud. 1800-2000rpm should be more than sufficient. .
THe Ultra KAZE is a very loud but fast fan. You don't like noise but you might change your mind running one of those full speed.
Actually, I don't mind noise. At all. My previous computer had a side panel missing and a stock fan that went at 3400 RPM, you could hear it from the other end of the house - It didn't bother me a bit.
This computer is silent... too, silent. I can barely see if it's on or off thanks to the Logo light that's broken and you can barely hear it lol

I also figured I'd need to have a 3000RPM fan on the back because the Frio is blowing out air in that fan-mounting-holes-thingy at 2400, and if I put a fan with like, 1900 RPM then it would bottleneck since the Frio is throwing more wind at it than it can handle.

Also upgrade the psu when you can TT isn't great in terms of quality for power supplies. Possibly bump up to 600w but 550w minimum. Yes since your comp runs much cooler with the side panel off your case will limit your cooling capacity. The only harm from running the comp without the side panel is lots of dust and possibly damaging parts if anyone/anything decides to play around inside your computer

I was thinking of getting a Modular power supply sometime in the future, one that's 600W or more since I know 600W works for my comp. But I'll remember not to go Thermaltake then.
This case is designed so it's hard to get into it... so, it's hard to get off. The feature of the case is that it has a handle because I carry it back and forth to my friends a lot, so having the side panel off creates a few issues that was a reason I wanted an entire new case (along side with the handle and how good it looks)

The FRIO will only beat a Low end WC sealed unit when its Given AMPLE air to do so.
The H80 is a double thick double pass RAD that is designed to maximize cooling in less than ideal Airflow situations.
It will do better than the FRIO for sure.
So saving up for the H80 is a good idea you think? If I'm gonna save up for that water cooling unit then I suppose I don't need to bother with the 3000rpm back fan since the Water cooling socket goes there.
 

Soultribunal

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Actually, I don't mind noise. At all. My previous computer had a side panel missing and a stock fan that went at 3400 RPM, you could hear it from the other end of the house - It didn't bother me a bit.
This computer is silent... too, silent. I can barely see if it's on or off thanks to the Logo light that's broken and you can barely hear it lol

I also figured I'd need to have a 3000RPM fan on the back because the Frio is blowing out air in that fan-mounting-holes-thingy at 2400, and if I put a fan with like, 1900 RPM then it would bottleneck since the Frio is throwing more wind at it than it can handle.



I was thinking of getting a Modular power supply sometime in the future, one that's 600W or more since I know 600W works for my comp. But I'll remember not to go Thermaltake then.
This case is designed so it's hard to get into it... so, it's hard to get off. The feature of the case is that it has a handle because I carry it back and forth to my friends a lot, so having the side panel off creates a few issues that was a reason I wanted an entire new case (along side with the handle and how good it looks)


So saving up for the H80 is a good idea you think? If I'm gonna save up for that water cooling unit then I suppose I don't need to bother with the 3000rpm back fan since the Water cooling socket goes there.

The H80 is honestly the best Sealed WC unit made to date. It combines the pedigree of a Canadian WC team (Coolit) with the refintement of Corsair. A match made if there ever was to be one.
Combine that with say a Blademaster or Typhoon fan and you should best that FRIO in your case without fail. Just don't use the stock paste on it, they pile it on thick.

If you are going modular PSU something like a Silverstone Strider Plus, Corsair HX or AX would suffice.
Its not that TT on a whole is bad. Their Grandpower units are pretty decent. Right now however they are still on a kick of crap OEM's that your hard earned money shouldn't be wasted on.


Good luck,

-ST
 

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