Bond007
Well-known member
I agree that I like to see cooler temps, but 85 is under the 95 throttling mark. That is a lot of cpu performance that a budget air cooler is handling without issue.
Completed Hyte Y70 Touch Custom WC
- Thread starter sswilson
- Start date
freeagent
Well-known member
I have like all of the last gen Thermalright coolers, well the ones at the top.
PA120SE ARGB is a good cooler if you are keeping things in the ~180w range.
Venture past 200w (7nm) and it will show its displeasure with your CPU choice heheh.
You can also run different fans, that would probably be the easiest option.
Their C12 Pro and B12 V2 are pretty good. I might try out the B12 Extrem, 3K..
PA120SE ARGB is a good cooler if you are keeping things in the ~180w range.
Venture past 200w (7nm) and it will show its displeasure with your CPU choice heheh.
You can also run different fans, that would probably be the easiest option.
Their C12 Pro and B12 V2 are pretty good. I might try out the B12 Extrem, 3K..
Lysrin
Well-known member
I need to get some time to do something different with mine. I am running at 85-86 C in DA:V. That game certainly seems to use both the GPU and CPU heavily. I need to try the top front fan off as you suggested, and perhaps I should consider going up to a bigger heatsink option over the Noctua I currently have. One of the Thermalright options would be cost effective for a boost in cooling I'd guess.
The Peerless Assassin SE in pull config did a pretty decent job on my 5900X.
Lysrin
Well-known member
I don't mind it reaching 85-86, as it isn't throttling there I don't believe, but that gets me into a much louder spot on my fan profile and I certainly don't want it peaking any higher. If I was able to get the same temp, but quieter, that'd be good. If I could get cooler temps and quieter that would be even better!
freeagent
Well-known member
A stock 5900X is pretty easy to tame, its like a big kitty cat.
Lysrin
Well-known member
I appear to be tame-challenged
The power button light is stupidly bright so I had initially thought to pull the sockets to disable it, but instead swapped it over to the HDD LED position. I don't need a power light, I've got a ton of RGB fans to let me know if it's running. OTOH, it still remains to be seen if I think it's too bright for a HDD activity light, and if I decide it is I'll just pull one of the leads to disable it all together.
edit: Oh, and while I'm at it.... this board/windows install really doesn't like having power removed from it. First boot after disconnecting PSU power often results in issues with my sign-in pin and seems to result in a windows error. Next boot and everything seems fine.
Finally got enough elbow fittings in to take a crack at how I've envisioned Loop V1 (there's almost aways a V2 shortly after the first...
). I'm using flex tubing, but the idea is to use straight runs and fittings/extensions if it was rigid tubing. Pictured above is the temp air cooled version. The PA can go back in the box for a future build.
I've already got a pic up of the return line from the rad to the pump, this was the first roughed in pump outlet going to the cpu block. I know I won't be able to get everything to match up exactly, but this looks like it's going to be a decent fit.
Here's the final (dry) loop. The lower line requires some kind of support, but I'm not really happy with how the dual cable clamps turned out. I suspect I'm going to try to print up a brace for a single cable clamp on the side that attaches to one of the bottom mounts of the pump.
Not quite as straight as I'd like, but close enough that I don't think OCD will kick in every time I look at it.
2.5 hours into the leak test without any issues. Loop is pretty much bled and I'm not seeing/hearing any trapped air.
FreeKnight
Well-known member
That poor Radeon card is whispering "water cool me too"
