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Completed Meshify C, 8700K - my journey to a custom loop

rjbarker

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Feb 19, 2008
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Looking forward to seeing your WC build log.

Not sure if it's been mentioned during your discussions on building loops in small cases.... one of the biggest things I've run into is the absolute necessity to ensure that you're not applying undue pressure on swivel barbs when you're trying to get the tube onto them. Sometimes in tight spaces it's hard to get the tube onto the barb, and the easiest way to get it on is to muscle it on without thought of how much pressure you're putting onto the joint. If possible, use straight barbs in tight spaces, or be very careful about putting extra pressure on the joint.

(I personally enjoy the challenge of building a loop in a small space... where's the challenge in building a loop in a case the size of a costco warehouse???? ;) )


Couple of more tips when working in tight corners trying to install flex tubing without applying "pressure on an angle to rotary fittings".....
Consider:
- installing tubing to the fitting prior to installing the radiator into the case (leave the tubing a tad longer and cut it to fit afterwards).
- Get your kettle boiling...pour the water into a large bowl....soak the ends (or the entire length of tubing) in the bowl of hot water for 30 sec or so....it wil soften the tubing and the ends will slip over the barbs a lot easier.
- Have a good "tube cutter" that will ensure a nice straight perpendicular cut with no jaggies...I think Daz used to sell them....got mine at Home Depot...
- For leak testing I use one of these I also got from Daz about 6 yrs ago...
https://www.dazmode.com/store/shop/watercooling/advanced-psu-jumper-50cm-19/


If you have a PWM pump I see Daz also has PWM to Molex converters to run your pump directly off of PSU
 

sswilson

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Moncton NB
Couple of more tips when working in tight corners trying to install flex tubing without applying "pressure on an angle to rotary fittings".....
Consider:
- installing tubing to the fitting prior to installing the radiator into the case (leave the tubing a tad longer and cut it to fit afterwards).
- Get your kettle boiling...pour the water into a large bowl....soak the ends (or the entire length of tubing) in the bowl of hot water for 30 sec or so....it wil soften the tubing and the ends will slip over the barbs a lot easier.
- Have a good "tube cutter" that will ensure a nice straight perpendicular cut with no jaggies...I think Daz used to sell them....got mine at Home Depot...
- For leak testing I use one of these I also got from Daz about 6 yrs ago...
https://www.dazmode.com/store/shop/watercooling/advanced-psu-jumper-50cm-19/



If you have a PWM pump I see Daz also has PWM to Molex converters to run your pump directly off of PSU

I've got a usb hdd data transfer kit that has a PSU with a molex adapter that I use. (similar to this... https://www.amazon.ca/Mosuch-Adapte...03H51MH7ECZ&psc=1&refRID=RF0227CBE03H51MH7ECZ )
 

Sagath

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The PEX tube cutters for home plumbing work very well to give a good end cut.
 

Lysrin

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The PEX tube cutters for home plumbing work very well to give a good end cut.

That is what I bought from Canadian Tire. Wasn't expensive, and I think I bought the right thing, but if I somehow bought the wrong thing it won't be a great loss.

Going to wait on additional Daz purchases so I can absorb his shipping cost a bit better. I'll test these Canadian Tire ones before making my next Daz purchase.

I have the pin jumper for the power supply. There's no inherent issue with turning your actual power supply on and off frequently while testing, with the jumper on, is there? Same wear and tear as turning on and off your PC I assumed, but anything I'm missing there?
 

JD

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I have the pin jumper for the power supply. There's no inherent issue with turning your actual power supply on and off frequently while testing, with the jumper on, is there? Same wear and tear as turning on and off your PC I assumed, but anything I'm missing there?
Shouldn't be, but I use an old Coolmax PSU from TigerDirect for such purpose. It's faced way more cycles and still keeps working, so I'm sure a quality PSU would be fine.
 

Lysrin

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So the first piece or real custom loop gear (well not counting coolant and tubing) has arrived! :thumb:



In excellent condition, thanks BookOfElie. I was really surprised at how heavy the block is. Quite an impressive piece of kit in person.

So, now I'm committed :biggrin: and need to get figuring out the rest of the loop layout so I can figure out the parts list. Since I went with the plexi CPU block I'm planning on this GPU block I think:

https://www.dazmode.com/store/shop/watercooling/gpu-blocks/nvidia-cards/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-strix-rgb-nickel/

That gives me nickel for both, and I also think the RGB will give me a little lighting of the lower part of the case without additional strips.
 

JD

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Yeah it's surprising how much heavier blocks are compared to heatsinks. You'll see the same with the GPU block.

Did you get 2 base plates with that block? Copper and a nickel one?

(and please remember to remove the sticker on the EK logo... when I took out my GPU a couple weeks back, I realized I had forgot...just like the stickers Corsair puts on their RAM...)
 

rjbarker

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Yes as JD said wait till you see how heavy the GPU Blocks are....when I have both my GPU's put together with the SLi Terminal Block attached (ready to be installed in the Board), the entire unit has to weight close to 2-3 lbs.......heavy!!!


btw......did that Block come with both Copper and Nickel (I see copper in the package) heat sink base? Ive never seen a Block come with both......


Tip: Whenever you take apart the Block (whether CPU or GPU) try to do it without disturbing the O Ring......they can be a bitch to get back in and seated correctly!!!
And be careful of how you orientate the heat sink base when attaching the top.....if it skewed 90 degrees in the wrong direction your temps will be up around 5c higher than normal ......I believe the fins should be in the same orientation as the same input/ouputs.....not skewed 90 degress......Ive made this error ....found my GPU temps up by 10c ......when you take it apart just be very careful to re-install exactly as you found it....


......check the jet plates and insert (likely wont have to change insert), but the jet plates that come installed I believe are for 2011 / 2066 platforms iirq....there should be another jet plate in the accessory package for 1151......the instructions will help you identify the correct jet plate and how to install....
 
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Lysrin

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Manual says that default out of the box it supports LGA-115x and LGA-2011(-3).

It looks like two bases. Looks like the nickel one is preinstalled and the copper one is separate and bagged separately. I'll see if I can get some pics later. No time at the moment, but based on what I see in the manual and what is already on the unit it looks like two.
 

pmachado

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Mar 3, 2014
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Looking good so far. I just got that same RAM and waiting to start my new build
 
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