Completed Meshify C, 8700K - my journey to a custom loop

[rjbarker]

Manual says that default out of the box it supports LGA-115x and LGA-2011(-3).

It looks like two bases. Looks like the nickel one is preinstalled and the copper one is separate and bagged separately. I'll see if I can get some pics later. No time at the moment, but based on what I see in the manual and what is already on the unit it looks like two.

Good stuff C !!! Keep the pics coming as this goes together......thats a bonus you got 2 bases with the block....Ive never seen this before .....maybe it was some special promotion from EK ....


btw...I pulled the pin on the Vector All Nickel w RGB ....next time off drain...replace and fill :thumb:

 

[Lysrin]

Looking good so far. I just got that same RAM and waiting to start my new build

Thanks! It is hopefully going to do some serious changing as I move to the custom loop!

Good stuff C !!! Keep the pics coming as this goes together......thats a bonus you got 2 bases with the block....Ive never seen this before .....maybe it was some special promotion from EK ....


btw...I pulled the pin on the Vector All Nickel w RGB ....next time off drain...replace and fill :thumb:

Nice! I shall forever live in your water cooling shadow Sir! :thumb: I have a couple more pics. Just need to get the uploaded to share.

Not sure if the stock info is just to entice you to buy but Dazmode is saying only two of the GPU blocks left that I want so I need to get crackin'!

 

[JD]

Not sure if the stock info is just to entice you to buy but Dazmode is saying only two of the GPU blocks left that I want so I need to get crackin'!

I would say get a move on since I doubt EK is producing 1080 Ti blocks anymore as NVIDIA/OEMs aren't producing cards. Probably whatever stock is left in the channel is it.

EK probably still has some in their warehouse, but Daz would have to get that in, and I don't see him wanting to sit on GPU blocks that he can't sell.

 

[Lysrin]

I would say get a move on since I doubt EK is producing 1080 Ti blocks anymore as NVIDIA/OEMs aren't producing cards. Probably whatever stock is left in the channel is it.

EK probably still has some in their warehouse, but Daz would have to get that in, and I don't see him wanting to sit on GPU blocks that he can't sell.

Yeah, agreed JD. My thinking exactly. I'll be out of luck if I don't get going. And although ordering direct from EK is an option too, I would prefer to support Dazmode for whatever I can. No reason not to support the local Canadian shop right?

Here are the pics of the block in default assembly out of the box and the copper base, I think... That what it looks like to you guys?

Here is the default assembly, looks like the nickel base pre-installed:

and this is the copper one in the bag, front and back:

rj, the copper one, is that showing the fins you are talking about orienting? So the water flow should be across the fins, or along lone axis of the fins?

Also, if I use the nickel base already installed, I'm safe in assuming it would be together correctly from EK right?

 

[Sagath]

Damn dude. You've got some mitts on you :haha:

Fin orientation should be with the water. The less resistance the better being the idea.

I'd reassemble. Why take the chance that it's perfect from the factory?

 

[Lysrin]

Damn dude. You've got some mitts on you :haha:

Fin orientation should be with the water. The less resistance the better being the idea.

I'd reassemble. Why take the chance that it's perfect from the factory?

The camera adds 10 inches... har har har :bleh:

I can reassemble, I was concerned about rj's warning about disturbing the o-ring.

But I want to keep the nickel base right, especially since the GPU block is going to be nickel too? Or am I still understanding something incorrectly there? I get that mixing nickel and copper is not like mixing with aluminum but I figure if I can avoid mixing, well all the better.

 

[Lysrin]

So just to be clear, we are talking about the orientation of the fins inside the block, correct? Not the orientation of the fins relative to the long axis of your CPU. The latter seems to be debated online too.

If inside the block, based on what you guys have said and what I can gather from the installation instructions, I think this block is actually together wrong! You can see in the pic below that looking in through the out port, water would be moving across at 90 degrees to the fins rather that along the fins.

That looks to me like the base needs to rotated 90 degrees. That look right to you guys?

This is from the AMD installation section of the guide, but this certainly seems to say that orientation of the fins should be as you've said, with the water flowing along the length of the fins.

So... guess I have to take the block apart after all! :doh: Well, I'll get to understand the parts better I suppose.

 

[rjbarker]

You can also search Youtube EK Waterblock disassembly and you'll see video of folks taking apart and putting back together...thats where I twigged onto the orientation of the fins......

 

[FreeKnight]

The camera adds 10 inches... har har har :bleh:

On a more serious note, I'm jealous. I really want to do a loop, but it's not worth it on my Z97 if I'm planning on an ice lake upgrade (although there's a good chance the blocks will match). I've decided not to keep the 2080Ti I ordered as I signed up for some more professional certifications over the next month so I'll be in study mode for the next 1-2 months.

Keep the pictures coming Lysrin, definitely want to see how this comes together. Plus then I can make sure my loop looks waaaaayyyy better :bleh:

 

[JD]

TBH, I've never checked the fin orientation in relation to the inlet/outlet... though I don't believe I've taken apart my EK CPU block yet.

That copper baseplate you have looks used though, yet the sticker still seem to be intact on the base... Probably the guy you bought it from had plans or used parts of it or something, hard to say. Looks like there's a story behind this though.

Taking blocks apart generally isn't a big deal though, the oring fits into a groove so it's pretty much fail proof. Just don't use any sharp objects on it or over tighten the screws when you put it back together.