Mr. Cipher
Well-known member
Hey everyone,
I got my new system (same as "Odin" in my sig) and decided to give overclocking a whirl. I currently have stock cooling, using an Antec 900 with all fans but the top one on medium - that one is on high.
Components:
I booted the system with the F5 bios, and I was dismayed when I saw e2180 @ 1.8ghz (200x9). When I updated the bios, that fixed it.
Also, the F5/F7D bios, without changing any values, had set my ram to the JEDEC standard for PC2-6400, which was 5-5-5-15 @ 1.8v. It wasn't until I updated to the F7D bios that I could change the timings. Later I learned that in the tweaking section of the bios, if you apparently press ctrl+F1 you open up a secret section. I never tried it with the F5 bios so I wouldn't know.
Ambient - 20 Celsius, TJunction Max - 85 Celsius, all speeds CPU-Z verified and tested on Orthos. Stock voltage is 1.275v according to the bios.
1. Tried 210x10 on stock voltage, as a test
2. Upped it to 250mhzx10 = 2.5Ghz, no problem on stock. CPU-Z said the voltage under load went down from 1.232v to 1.216v (Any thoughts? verified)
3. Went to 280x10 = 2.8ghz, again 1.232v idle and 1.216v on load. (verified)
4. Went to 300mhzx10 = 3.0Ghz on stock voltage, loosened memory to 5-5-5-15, 2.1v to run at 900mhz. (verified)
5. Tried to go for my goal of 330x10 = 3.3Ghz, but at this point the system became unstable. I tried all minimum increments for the CPU voltage, and once I hit 1.375v without it being able to run Orthos (Super Pi 2M was OK) I resigned myself to 3.2ghz
6. 320mhzx10 = 3.2ghz at 1.375v. At this point I let the BIOS automatically set the voltage and that is the number it came up with. CPU-Z says I am idle-ing at 1.328v and on load, 1.316volts. My EasyTune (Gigabyte utility) says I am at 1.375 volts as I think it runs off the BIOS. Stable overclock for 8h52min Orthos. (Validated,screenshot)
I just woke up so I haven't had time to aggregate and graph the raw temperature data. Eyeballing it, it appears that the temps went from 30/33 on idle @2.0ghz to 34/36 on idle @3.2ghz, to 54/55 load @2ghz to 62/63 on load @3.2ghz.
Again, keep in mind that's with my Antec fans all on medium (except the top one on high), and stock CPU cooling. I would really like to push this to see if I can get to 3.4ghz but I'm worried about the kind of voltage I have to put through. I'll be installing my TRU 120 Extreme first to get some better temps.
Something I also noticed was that despite having a 8800gtx, I can fit a fan in the side panel. Every review site I went to said that wouldn't work. Also, my cabling is really clean (as it can be) without any case mods, despite what everyone has said. I think I might review the case to show you all what I've done. Seeing as how I can put the fan on there, I may very well OC the gtx even more (again any pointers are appreciated).
Lastly, seeing as how I have the heat pipe coolers on my RAM, I am going to try to overclock that...although it's hard to test without voiding my warranty. At least I can go to 2.2v.
Oh and actually, one more thing. I have options such as increasing PCI-E frequency (I set this to 100 so it wouldn't go up on auto as I OC'D), FSB voltage and northbridge voltage. When would I change any of these settings? I was under the impression we simply give the CPU more juice and that'll get it to boot if we OC like mad.
At any rate, if you have thoughts or suggestions, I would appreciate them very much. For now, I'm not going to complain about a 60% OC :funky:Time to go play some BioShock!
**Update 1: I got up to 3.33GHz (333MHz x 10) last night at 1.425v. Stable for 8h30m with Orthos. I could boot at 1.306v at 3.33GHz, but it was not stable. I also installed my TR ultra 120 extreme, and temps are about 28/29 idle and 53/54 on load. It shaved a few degrees for sure, almost 8-10 on the load side and 3-4 on the idle side. It was HARD to install though, the amount of pressure I had to use to get my 2nd screw in, wow. Not fun. Works though. Now to try 3.4ghz. Any ideas what the maximum "safe" air cooled voltage might be, and when should/would I increase the northbridge voltage? What's the point of that?
**Update 2: 3.4GHz (340MHz x 10) at 1,431v. Super PI 4m ran fine. Memory is 4-4-4-12, 850MHz, 2.1v. Testing with Orthos for the evening and will update tomorrow. Temps on 100% load reading 51/54 (~10c cooler than when I was at 3.2ghz w. no Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme!), no throttling either. If the Tjunction max is 100C instead of 85C, my load is 65/69...seems high to me. Also noticed Rightmark reports the CPU as Allendale, CPU-Z reports as Conroe.
**Updated 3: The previous OC was not stable - failed Orthos after 5h 23m. Upped voltage to 1.437v, and it's been stable for 9 hours now, memory at 4-4-4-12, 850mhz 2.1v. I am running Orthos for the rest of the day to continue testing for stability. It appears that I have gained 70% OC on my e2180, load temps still only 52/54. I wonder how much I've shortened its lifespan. Does anyone know if upping the FSB or NB voltage by +0.1v will allow me to drop my VCORE?
I got my new system (same as "Odin" in my sig) and decided to give overclocking a whirl. I currently have stock cooling, using an Antec 900 with all fans but the top one on medium - that one is on high.
Components:
- MoBo: GA-P35-DS3R rev 2.0, bios f7d
- RAM: OCZ Reaper HPC PC2-6400 (4-4-4-15, 2.1v, 2x1gb)
- CPU: Pentium Dual Core E2180, M0 Stepping
- GPU: BFG 8800 GTX OC 610mhz/910mhz (puny OC on top of BFG's, I'm doing that next)
- PSU: Corsair HX 620
- Chassis: Antec 900
I booted the system with the F5 bios, and I was dismayed when I saw e2180 @ 1.8ghz (200x9). When I updated the bios, that fixed it.
Also, the F5/F7D bios, without changing any values, had set my ram to the JEDEC standard for PC2-6400, which was 5-5-5-15 @ 1.8v. It wasn't until I updated to the F7D bios that I could change the timings. Later I learned that in the tweaking section of the bios, if you apparently press ctrl+F1 you open up a secret section. I never tried it with the F5 bios so I wouldn't know.
Ambient - 20 Celsius, TJunction Max - 85 Celsius, all speeds CPU-Z verified and tested on Orthos. Stock voltage is 1.275v according to the bios.
1. Tried 210x10 on stock voltage, as a test
2. Upped it to 250mhzx10 = 2.5Ghz, no problem on stock. CPU-Z said the voltage under load went down from 1.232v to 1.216v (Any thoughts? verified)
3. Went to 280x10 = 2.8ghz, again 1.232v idle and 1.216v on load. (verified)
4. Went to 300mhzx10 = 3.0Ghz on stock voltage, loosened memory to 5-5-5-15, 2.1v to run at 900mhz. (verified)
5. Tried to go for my goal of 330x10 = 3.3Ghz, but at this point the system became unstable. I tried all minimum increments for the CPU voltage, and once I hit 1.375v without it being able to run Orthos (Super Pi 2M was OK) I resigned myself to 3.2ghz
6. 320mhzx10 = 3.2ghz at 1.375v. At this point I let the BIOS automatically set the voltage and that is the number it came up with. CPU-Z says I am idle-ing at 1.328v and on load, 1.316volts. My EasyTune (Gigabyte utility) says I am at 1.375 volts as I think it runs off the BIOS. Stable overclock for 8h52min Orthos. (Validated,screenshot)
I just woke up so I haven't had time to aggregate and graph the raw temperature data. Eyeballing it, it appears that the temps went from 30/33 on idle @2.0ghz to 34/36 on idle @3.2ghz, to 54/55 load @2ghz to 62/63 on load @3.2ghz.
Again, keep in mind that's with my Antec fans all on medium (except the top one on high), and stock CPU cooling. I would really like to push this to see if I can get to 3.4ghz but I'm worried about the kind of voltage I have to put through. I'll be installing my TRU 120 Extreme first to get some better temps.
Something I also noticed was that despite having a 8800gtx, I can fit a fan in the side panel. Every review site I went to said that wouldn't work. Also, my cabling is really clean (as it can be) without any case mods, despite what everyone has said. I think I might review the case to show you all what I've done. Seeing as how I can put the fan on there, I may very well OC the gtx even more (again any pointers are appreciated).
Lastly, seeing as how I have the heat pipe coolers on my RAM, I am going to try to overclock that...although it's hard to test without voiding my warranty. At least I can go to 2.2v.
Oh and actually, one more thing. I have options such as increasing PCI-E frequency (I set this to 100 so it wouldn't go up on auto as I OC'D), FSB voltage and northbridge voltage. When would I change any of these settings? I was under the impression we simply give the CPU more juice and that'll get it to boot if we OC like mad.
At any rate, if you have thoughts or suggestions, I would appreciate them very much. For now, I'm not going to complain about a 60% OC :funky:Time to go play some BioShock!
**Update 1: I got up to 3.33GHz (333MHz x 10) last night at 1.425v. Stable for 8h30m with Orthos. I could boot at 1.306v at 3.33GHz, but it was not stable. I also installed my TR ultra 120 extreme, and temps are about 28/29 idle and 53/54 on load. It shaved a few degrees for sure, almost 8-10 on the load side and 3-4 on the idle side. It was HARD to install though, the amount of pressure I had to use to get my 2nd screw in, wow. Not fun. Works though. Now to try 3.4ghz. Any ideas what the maximum "safe" air cooled voltage might be, and when should/would I increase the northbridge voltage? What's the point of that?
**Update 2: 3.4GHz (340MHz x 10) at 1,431v. Super PI 4m ran fine. Memory is 4-4-4-12, 850MHz, 2.1v. Testing with Orthos for the evening and will update tomorrow. Temps on 100% load reading 51/54 (~10c cooler than when I was at 3.2ghz w. no Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme!), no throttling either. If the Tjunction max is 100C instead of 85C, my load is 65/69...seems high to me. Also noticed Rightmark reports the CPU as Allendale, CPU-Z reports as Conroe.
**Updated 3: The previous OC was not stable - failed Orthos after 5h 23m. Upped voltage to 1.437v, and it's been stable for 9 hours now, memory at 4-4-4-12, 850mhz 2.1v. I am running Orthos for the rest of the day to continue testing for stability. It appears that I have gained 70% OC on my e2180, load temps still only 52/54. I wonder how much I've shortened its lifespan. Does anyone know if upping the FSB or NB voltage by +0.1v will allow me to drop my VCORE?
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