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Quiet case with good airflow? Is the Meshify the best option?

chrisk

Folding Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
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7,603
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GTA, Ontario
Got the Meshify S2 white today. God, that thing is pretty. I also get why Dimitry loves pulling the wrap off the tempered glass. So satisfying.

I ordered some of the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease too, now that I'm relocating the gear. I used Arctic Silver 5 and it was probably good enough, but decided that I needed the newer stuff because....I dunno. I'm in hardware upgrade hell now.

Looking at a good platform / case stand to keep the new case off the carpeted floor. I'm just using a piece of wood now, but would not mind using something with a bit more height. I'm also looking at things like furniture dollys, etc. as a way to get some height and air under the case.
 

chrisk

Folding Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
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7,603
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GTA, Ontario
Ran into a small snag as I was lining up the stuff I'm planning to jam into the case.

Plan A: As discussed above, put my 240mm AIO at the front, with a 140mm fan below it. All intake. Then have three 140mm fans as exhaust, two at the top, one at the back. Now that I am looking at it, I'm actually not 100% sure the AIO will fit there at all with a bottom 140mm fan I bought.

Plan B: I just picked up a 280mm Corsair AIO that I was going to put in the front with the 140mm fan. Looks like now that the AIO is not going to fit there with the other 140mm fan intake. So plan B is def out.

So I'm wondering..do I return the 280mm AIO and try to get my current 'old' 240MM AIO in the front with that 140mm fan as mentioned in Plan A (no guarantee actually it will fit), or should I go to plan C, which would be 280mm AIO at the top as exhaust, rear 140mm exhaust, and three 140mm fans as intake. Plan C would end up with positive pressure I think.
 

CMetaphor

Quadfather
Joined
May 5, 2007
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5,679
Location
Montreal, Canada
Ahhh silly rads... Those extra bumps are the bane of so many builds. Silly Q perhaps, but does the 280 AIO rad work with the inlet/outlet at the bottom? Aka, let the rad bump overhang the last bottom intake fan? I'm assuming there's no room for the rad bump at the top... Alternatively, and something I've done in the past myself to get around these types of issues:
1- can you mount the bottom most intake fan between the front panel and it's mounting? As opposed to inside the case, you sandwich it.
2- bit more annoying, but I've done it as well: use old/crappy/loud fans, chip out out the fan itself, frame + motor and the supports, and just use the frame of the fan as a spacer. I have personally done this a couple of times and it works surprisingly well. Ex: intake/push fan then fan frame then rad then optional pull fan. One big ol' sandwich, but it moves the rad enough to sometimes get around other build problems.

Edit: Plan C/ positive pressure is Not something I'd recommend for a gamer PC, like ever.
 

chrisk

Folding Captain
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Jul 12, 2008
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7,603
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GTA, Ontario
So I came up with a hybrid plan, similar to plan D above :)

1. Returned the 280mm AIO, and I'll keep the 240mm AIO. It was unopened so I got 100% refund back. I bought a 120mm fan.

2. I'll mount the 240mm AIO to the front as intake, with a 120mm fan below for intake as well (the new one I just bought).

3. I'll mount a 140mm fan at the rear as exhaust.

4. Two 140mm fans at the top as exhaust.

I have one additional 140mm fan I'm not using. I will probably have room for it at the top as an additional exhaust, or even bottom mount it next to the PSU, but I think that will interfere with the front intakes.

Besides possible noise, would it be advisable to add the 3rd 140mm fan to the top as exhaust as well? That would mean:
- 2x120mm on the AIO as intake
- 1x120mm on front below as intake
- 1x 140mm as exhaust on rear
- 3x 140mm on top as exhaust (or just have 2 up there?)

That looks like so much negative pressure I might have a tough time getting the side panels off :)

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Bond007

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Jun 24, 2009
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Nova Scotia
Personally I wouldn’t add exhaust towards the front of the top. I would keep it to the 2 you have up there at most. Any option for bottom intake? Personally I would leave the front as you said, 1x rear and 1x top (back) exhaust, and add a bottom intake for the GPU (sorry I didn’t look up the case fan options).
 

CMetaphor

Quadfather
Joined
May 5, 2007
Messages
5,679
Location
Montreal, Canada
Gotta disagree with @Bond007, sorta?

The only Real problem with excessive negative pressure /too much exhaust fans is overwhelming the intake and drawing in air from the case from strange places - which normally aren't filtered. So you *could* go with the new plan no problem, but the only real way to tell how well it works is to check how much dust you have inside your case after a little while. Having a top exhaust right next to the top edge of your rad isn't a bad thing either, at all. Getting hot air Out, as fast as possible, is great IMO. My current personal system does exactly that and there are no issues at all. Less heat inside the case means less things that heat up due to what their neighbors are doing.

Go for it, try it out. Worst case? Slow down the top exhaust fans a little bit, which will also make them quieter anyway 👍 But do check for other weird places that dust might get in, I didn't look that closely at your case, but a lot of manufacturers put things like a widely spaced grille near the IO slots, thinking it'll somehow help with GPU temps (which it won't no matter what type of gpu it is). Getting creative with silly design decisions like those can take some creativity. I've used electrical tape and bits of clear plastic on more than one occasion to get around such problematic "styling", so be careful and check for it.

Side note: Cases with crazy excessive grills and meshes everywhere are the only reason to use positive pressure for a gaming PC. Ex: there are some "slim" gamer ITX cases like the Ncase M1(?)(Mcase N1? Whatever) that are just unfiltered grills almost everywhere. In those situations your only choice is pushing air into the FAST to get hot air out of those grills while also preventing them from drawing in dust. Tbh it's a pain in the butt for a gamer case, which is why almost every gamer PC I've ever built has been negative pressure with good filters. Positive pressure is only really good for ultra compact stuff, think low profile ITX w/o expansion slots. Those cases just draw air in (sadly unfiltered) from one fan and rely on fast air pushing in to force the hot air - and dust out - from everywhere else. Negative airflow ftw I say 🤷‍♂️🤣
 

Bond007

Well-known member
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Jun 24, 2009
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Nova Scotia
No issues with your points at all @CMetaphor . Negative pressure does seem to give better temps in some cases. With 2 cats and a dog I ensure I have positive pressure. My case stays spotless inside after years of use by just vacuuming the filters.

When I did some testing of fan placement in my case, my GPU temps went up with the forward top fan installed (Exhaust). I figured it was probably immediately drawing out the air taken in from the front. When I moved it to bottom intake I had a further drop in GPU temps and no change to cpu temps.
 

chrisk

Folding Captain
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Jul 12, 2008
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Location
GTA, Ontario
Got it together. Looks great, still trying some temps...looks like I'm about 8-10c over what my old CM Trooper was on the CPU, 5c over on the motherboard, and the gpu is also about 5c over...but its much quieter, so I think I'll have to ramp up the fans a bit for a more fair comparison. These temps are all idle, I have not done much testing yet under load (a quick 10mins of prime95 gave me similar to my previous setup with a max of high 60c range on small ffts).

I'll document here what I experienced during the build, just in case it helps anyone else who finds this thread.

Main components are:
- Mobo is Asus Strix B550-E
- Asus RTX 2060
-

General install notes:
- the mobo standoff screws I used in my old case, and probably followed me from case to case, didn't fit the standoffs here. I had to use the ones that came with the mobo
- one of the standoffs were not exactly in the right spot. Not something I expected on a case like this.
- the case comes with a power extension cable that makes installing 3 HDDs a breeze.
- lots of little holes and case clips to hide and route cables.
- having the front panel connectors attached to the front panel when you remove it really is a pain, as mentioned by various reviewers. The connectors should really be attached to the top panel.

Fan setup general
- replaced all the stock Meshify Fans with FRACTAL DESIGN Venturi HP-14 140MM PWM Cooling Fans (4 in total). I got the 120mm version of the same fan for the front. I did this because I wanted 4-pin PWMs, and not the 3 pins that came with the case. I removed the built-in fan hub that came on the Meshify, and let the Asus mobo control the fans.
- these fans have rubber corner mounts.

Specifics:

- 1x120mm in the bottom-front as intake. I had to attach this on one side with a zip tie, as I would not have had room for my 240mm AIO Fractal Design Celsius S24. Pictures below
- 2x120mm in the front as intake, pushing through the AIO rad. The rad is pressed against the fan at the top, and about 2mm clearance on the 120mm fan below it.

1596989043343.png

Massive amount of room on the right of the mobo there...I think I found something that I might be able to try mounting there....see the last pic below :)


Two white fans came with the AIO, and I connected both to a splitter and connected to the CPU fan header on the mobo. Here, on the right-bottom, you can see the zip tie I used to secure the 120mm intake fan as I could not use all 4 of the mounting holes. I was only able to use 2 screws on the left:
1596989189023.png

1596989247978.png


- 3 x140mm exhaust, with the two rear connected to a splitter and connected to the mobo on the CPU-OPT fan header. Also, I circled the place where the front fan is literally touching the end of the AIO. The front fan is connected to a fan header on its own.

1596989407797.png

Overall view of the inside. The rear fan is exhaust, and not connected to any splitters and has it's own header. Through the case grille on the right, you can see the 3 HDDS I installed. The case came with a power cable that easily let me add power to those drives which was really nice.


1596989499618.png


Just enough room at the bottom for easy cable management and connecting the audio and case connectors, and fan headers. I'll have to see what code q 40 means. lol

1596989800047.png

Bit of light bleed on the right side of the case where the HDD/Power LED is:
1596989881385.png


I made zero effort to really tidy up behind, but the panel is still flush with the top (so thats not the reason for the light bleed, but also shows how much room is behind the tray...no pics of the mess yet):

1596990031674.png


Wifey laughed and said that my new chair matched my case and I was a huge nerd. She was right (and totally by accident):

1596990104808.png

I found this while cleaning up.. I wonder if I can get it to fit in the case to the right of the mobo:

1596990193078.png

Overall, I think I will have to speed up the fans a bit. I'm getting higher temps than I would like (CPU temps fluctuate a lot between high 30 and mid40c on idle), but the case is completely silent right now. I also used the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease instead of Arctic Silver I usually use.
 

Bond007

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2009
Messages
5,745
Location
Nova Scotia
Nice work. The kryonaut should give better temps the AS5.

What fan speed do you have running at idle? Have you checked GPU temps yet?
 

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