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Rants etc.....

lowfat

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Shit, had resanded my WB for the GPU and must have had something in the paper, or really bad technique. I've done two rounds of polishing after sanding to 3000 grit, but there's still lots of hairline scratches.

Will probably have to restart at around 800 and go through the 1000-1200-2000-3000 then polish again.

On the upside I grabbed a different polish (Novus heavy and novus fine) and it seems to be working a lot better than the PlastX
PlastX is IMO the best polish for acrylic. IMO the most important phase is the 800grit or lower. All deeper scratches need to be out @ this phase.

You are using a drill to polish? For the flat surfaces this makes a HUGE difference. I can't comment on the quality of the pads but something like this. You'd want a pad for cutting and a pad for polishing.
 

FreeKnight

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PlastX is IMO the best polish for acrylic. IMO the most important phase is the 800grit or lower. All deeper scratches need to be out @ this phase.

You are using a drill to polish? For the flat surfaces this makes a HUGE difference. I can't comment on the quality of the pads but something like this. You'd want a pad for cutting and a pad for polishing.
I skipped the drill pretty early, but I'll take a look at those. Switched to hand sand and polish for the bridge and it looks great, but the block itself I'm having less luck with.

Maybe I'll start with a 600 or 800 again. Since I ordered a couple resevoirs to test fit I've got some time to kill on it.
 

LaughingCrow

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Southern Ontario
I skipped the drill pretty early, but I'll take a look at those. Switched to hand sand and polish for the bridge and it looks great, but the block itself I'm having less luck with.

Maybe I'll start with a 600 or 800 again. Since I ordered a couple resevoirs to test fit I've got some time to kill on it.
Just occurred to me. Two more methods.

Scraping? Using a steel edge to scrape the plastic smooth. I've used wood scrapers for wood. I have used scrapers or a knife edge to scrape the ragged edge of plastic sheeting that had been cut with a saw - depends on the plastic. Typically, a wood scraper is hardened steel sheet as thin as 0.4mm (0.016") thick with either a ground flat edge. You can modified the edge slightly with a tungsten tool to give it a bit of a lip for a more aggressive scrape. I've used both on soft & hard woods. Scrapers come in a variety of shapes, thickness and sizes. But for plastic any steel should work including a good quality knife blade.

What about flame polishing? Only works on some plastic types but you're basically using a propane type torch to gently melt the surface.

Disclaimer - never used water cooling so I have no idea what these look like or the type of plastic used.
 

sswilson

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We'll see how it goes now that I've finally got all of my devices set up, but my initial impression of this new HP printer's networking capabilities aren't good.

Network discovery seemed to take several tries on each device. No changes in the network and/or device, just couldn't see the printer on the network, until it could......

I've locked the IP to the MAC addy so hopefully it stays connected and available on the network.

On a positive note, the print quality is more than adequate considering it was a $100 printer with a full xtra capacity toner tank.
 

Marzipan

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Prince Rupert, British Columbia, Canuckistan
We'll see how it goes now that I've finally got all of my devices set up, but my initial impression of this new HP printer's networking capabilities aren't good.

Network discovery seemed to take several tries on each device. No changes in the network and/or device, just couldn't see the printer on the network, until it could......

I've locked the IP to the MAC addy so hopefully it stays connected and available on the network.

On a positive note, the print quality is more than adequate considering it was a $100 printer with a full xtra capacity toner tank.
you know HP is being taken to court for bricking printers if the user tires to use non-HP consumables?

and for networking...WiFi or wired?
 

Shadowarez

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Oct 4, 2013
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Arctic Canada
My wife, and other moms having to deal with homeless people in the public washrooms at the park where my son plays soccer. Passed out in the bathroom stalls and doing drugs of course.

Sigh....
hey at least your city didn't contemplate a see through public washroom near the Canada post where all the homeless congregate and pass out plan next place to get kicked out of. that would have been worst decision to burn tax payers money on.
 

sswilson

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you know HP is being taken to court for bricking printers if the user tires to use non-HP consumables?

and for networking...WiFi or wired?

Wifi, and in this case (tank style) I don't think they can determine where the toner comes from, but even if they can, 5K worth of toner is under $50 so I don't mind the idea of paying manufacturer's prices.
 

lowfat

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Sigh. I missed all the OSB for the shed roof. And the sheets for the flooring somehow didn't make it on the order. So probably close to another $400.

Edit: $540. :(
 
Last edited:

Izerous

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Sigh. I missed all the OSB for the shed roof. And the sheets for the flooring somehow didn't make it on the order. So probably close to another $400.

Edit: $540. :(
If using OSB want to make sure you coat it with something (stain/paint whatever) snow covered shoes etc will start to track in snow and moisture over time will help extend the life of the floor
 

lowfat

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If using OSB want to make sure you coat it with something (stain/paint whatever) snow covered shoes etc will start to track in snow and moisture over time will help extend the life of the floor
I went with pressure treated 3/4 for floors. Omg it is ever heavy when 'wet'. I can't lift it. :eek:
 

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