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Rants etc.....

clshades

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,505
Location
Big White Ski Resort
My shower door has been partly broken since I bought the place five years ago, it doesn't close properly since the door doesn't stay square. I've taken the door apart and tried to fix it a couple times with little result so I finally decided to take the whole mount, frame and everything apart, clean and try to reseat them.

Sadly the crappy plastic mounts meant it's a no-go. So I pulled the frame off and am making due with a rod and curtain for now.

The annoying part is that the dimensions are a bit odd so there's no replacement surround and door I can find that fits, so I'm likely going to have to demo that whole shower 'room' of the ensuite, put kerby or cement board in, waterproof and tile the whole thing. Sigh.
I'd buy a firebglass base. Then I'd use green board drywall and mapelasic HPG. The HPG is roll on rubber membrane and has a longer warranty than kurdi, it's cheaper and easier than the kurdi matting for the walls and less painful to install tile over.

I'd also replace your positemp valve while you've got the walls apart.
 

clshades

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,505
Location
Big White Ski Resort
My shower door has been partly broken since I bought the place five years ago, it doesn't close properly since the door doesn't stay square. I've taken the door apart and tried to fix it a couple times with little result so I finally decided to take the whole mount, frame and everything apart, clean and try to reseat them.

Sadly the crappy plastic mounts meant it's a no-go. So I pulled the frame off and am making due with a rod and curtain for now.

The annoying part is that the dimensions are a bit odd so there's no replacement surround and door I can find that fits, so I'm likely going to have to demo that whole shower 'room' of the ensuite, put kerby or cement board in, waterproof and tile the whole thing. Sigh.
Don't use cement board. If anyone tells you you shoud or it's code they are stupid and don't have a clue.
 

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gingerbee

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Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
10,258
Location
Orillia, Ontario
Durock/cement board is not the go-to anymore ?? I ask because after redoing the silicone/caulk on my tub shower I noticed that its plastic is getting brittle so I will have to redo the whole bathroom when I do it in a few years, I was planning on just doing the sink and toilet before finding the shower was getting bad, I mean it will be ok for a while but thinking I will get many more years out of it just won't happen.
 

FreeKnight

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Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
4,657
Location
Edmonton, AB
Sorry I should have said fiberboard or whatever it's called. I remember Durock from back in the day, but know there's better stuff now that's presumably a lot lighter and less brittle..

I assume the stuff in your picture is that roll-on waterproofing membrane stuff (can't remember what it's called at the moment).

Edit: Whoops missed your first post. I had thought aquaboard wasn't recommended anymore tbh, but haven't looked into it in a while. Not a lot of showers building refineries and chemical plants ;).

I'll definitely replace the valves, shower heads, etc when I get to it. When you're using aquaboard and that roll on membrane, I assume you still mud and tape your aquaboard as normal, or do you just caulk the seam that'll be under the membrane?
 

lowfat

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Staff member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
13,215
Location
Grande Prairie, AB
O just dandy. Chewing a peice of gum and a crown fell out. And it took half the tooth with it. Work recently switched insurance providers and it sucks. It was previously $800 for normal stuff and $800 for cosmetics (ie crowns). Now it's just $800 combined. Crowns are $1000+lab fees. Plus the cost to buildup the tooth. So probably $500-800 out of pocket.

The thing was I was 'saving' my dental from this year to do a root canal. Plan was to do it near end of year and use next year's for a crown in January. So either I get it extracted or I'm going to be out of pocket for like $1500 next year.
 

clshades

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,505
Location
Big White Ski Resort
Durock/cement board is not the go-to anymore ?? I ask because after redoing the silicone/caulk on my tub shower I noticed that its plastic is getting brittle so I will have to redo the whole bathroom when I do it in a few years, I was planning on just doing the sink and toilet before finding the shower was getting bad, I mean it will be ok for a while but thinking I will get many more years out of it just won't happen.
It doesn't have to cement board if it's water proofed properly. The blue stuff in the photo is the HPG and I've never had a failure. The problem with cement board is it is very difficult to work with and nearly impossible to get it flat when the studs are perfect. It also falls apart when screws get too close to the edge. It's also impossible to trim and adjust if you don't get the cuts perfect, drywall doesn't have this problem. After the tile is done I will also paint this stuff around the shower valve, shower head outlet, and tub spout. You can water proof a cardboard box with this stuff.
 
Last edited:

clshades

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,505
Location
Big White Ski Resort
Sorry I should have said fiberboard or whatever it's called. I remember Durock from back in the day, but know there's better stuff now that's presumably a lot lighter and less brittle..

I assume the stuff in your picture is that roll-on waterproofing membrane stuff (can't remember what it's called at the moment).

Edit: Whoops missed your first post. I had thought aquaboard wasn't recommended anymore tbh, but haven't looked into it in a while. Not a lot of showers building refineries and chemical plants ;).

I'll definitely replace the valves, shower heads, etc when I get to it. When you're using aquaboard and that roll on membrane, I assume you still mud and tape your aquaboard as normal, or do you just caulk the seam that'll be under the membrane?
I use fiber tape or mesh tape with thinset where ever there's tile, and drywall mud where ever there is paint. Like I say, the HPG roll on stuff comes with a 25 year warranty. 2 coats in the corners and along the top of the tub, one to two coats everywhere else, 3 coats if it's a steam shower or shower base that's going to be tiled. This stuff will water proof anything.

 

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