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Some home audio upgrades

lowfat

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Just a thread to post about some home audio / theatre upgrades I'll be doing. Lots of DIY stuff similar to the car audio thread. Will be a very slow burn. As I'll only be working on it when I feel like it.

Over the last couple week I've been working on a subwoofer cabinet for a 'new' living room speaker. First up design. Going w/ a sealed cabinet. Normally the larger the cabinet the more efficient the speaker is. But the downside is speaker has more pressure, which can cause over excursion, which is the speaker traveling more than it is mechanically save to do). The problem w/ box building is there are so many variables. And TBH I think I probably screwed up here. I should have added multiple variations of the box in the same graph so I could compare. Will keep this in mind for next time.
This is the SPL aka efficiency of the same subwoofer but with 2 different cabinet sizes. One a very small 1c.ft. The other a monstrously large 3.5c.ft. About 4dB louder w/ the same amount of power @ 20Hz. That is a huge difference. So I went and started building the 3.5 cubic foot box. I'll show my mistake at the end.
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Not going to show all the pics of building a box as it isn't very exciting. All the wood was reused from old projects. Made from 1/2 mdf most of it. Then for the piece the sub mounted was doubled up 3/4" MDF. Feet are 3d printed. PLA w/ TPU as a cushion layer on the bottom. Sub is a 12" Pioneer that I bought off FB for $25.
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The little box on the floor is the amp I'll be powering it with. 150W RMS, which ain't a whole lot. Obviously not staying in the middle of the floor. :p
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Compared in size vs the old Velodyne sub I was using before.
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Cross over on the receiver is @ 40Hz. And it sounds really nice, clean and deep. Remembered how I said that larger boxes cause over excursion? Well the way you combat this is by using a subsonic filter, which adds a crossover below 20Hz to help reduce really low frequencies to prevent the sub from blowing it self apart. The box building tool does a simulated graph of excursion.

See how everything from about 37Hz and below is above the red line for the first one? That sub is going to blow, fast. The other is the small box.
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So I apply a 17Hz 48dB/octave (every octave will drop 48dB in power) @ 17Hz. Crossovers do affect frequencies above the crossover point as well tho. You can see the excursion is now in the safe area.
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xentr_thread_starter
This is where I messed up and should have compared it to a smaller sub box. This is the SPL / efficiency graph with the subsonic crossover applied. OMG, it is worse than the small box! o_O

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Maybe I can stack 48dB/octave crossovers even lower than 17Hz. But no one does this and there has to be a reason why.

EDIT: Originally I wasn't going to use this Pioneer sub but my ol' trusty Planet Audio sub that I've had for nearly 25 years. I had it in a 2c.ft box the entire time and I gave it 340W its whole life and its still going. Which is over twice as much power as above. Which should put it WELL above its max excursion I would think (can't find specs on such an ancient subwoofer). So maybe I'll use the Pioneer w/o the subsonic filter for now and see how it manages. And if she blows I'll toss in the Planet Audio and give it another shot?

EDIT2: 340W @ 2c.ft is 15mm of excursion for the Planet Audio. 150W @ 3.5c.ft is 12.5. Seems like the smarter choice. Maybe I'll swap over subs tomorrow.

Planet Audio is the red line. Bottom is the SPL / efficiency graph. It technically isn't as good as a sub as the Pioneer. Hence why I was going to use the Pioneer. Yellow is the small theoretical box w/ the Pioneer.

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xentr_thread_starter
So I ended up throwing the old Planet Audio 12 in the box. It sounds good. But definitely not loud enough for my tastes. I picked up another sub so one of the subs I was saving for my office is free now. So in the near future I'm going to add it to the living room as well. A JL 12" W3V3. Also in an absolutely massive box. Even bigger lol. But this sub is a lot more mechanically sound. It can handle a whole lot more excursion. The box for the JL will be 4 c.ft and ported, tuned to 20Hz.

This graph shows the estimated subs excursions. Red is the planet audio in the box I posted earlier. Blue is the JL. The Planet Audio is only getting 150W here while the JL is getting 350W.
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And then the estimated SPL of the 2. Absolutely massive difference, about 10dB.
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A couple weeks ago I swapped receivers between my PC and living room in order to get a way to play Tidal without the TV being on. Had this NAD 2200 amplifier that I bought a few months ago sitting unused as its for my office, which won't be done for a looong time yet. So decided to try it out. First tried w/ the B&W DM603s, saw no change. So I stole the speakers from my PC and hooked them up. I don't understand why a home amplifier needs to be this powerful. These speakers can handle a massive 180W continuous. But at that volume my ears are nearly bleeding. The amplifier wasn't likely even breaking a sweat.

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With the Paradigms hooked up. The sub I made to the right, doesn't look all big when these monster speakers are nearby. I had plans to build new cabinets / crossovers for these speakers. But think I'll just repair the cabinets instead. I bought a roll of nice satin black vinyl wrap for them. Although not sure if I'll cover up the grey on the front, it is in good shape still.
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I gave up on my home theater aspirations. I bought a decent soundbar and it easily replaced what I was using.. sorta. Music could be better.. but everything else is pretty decent.

So now I will use that until I can get my hands on a proper 2 channel stereo, no subs needed. I might have to travel back in time a bit to do it though. Also, nice to see we have a similar taste in music :)
 
xentr_thread_starter
nice! I love the sound of classic paradigm speakers
Now with even more Paradigm lol.

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Noticed a weird distortion show up in tweeter. I swapped positions and tweeters and I couldn't pinpoint issue. Eventually I just rebooted amp and all of a sudden its the other speaker causing issue. So obviously an amp issue. Now I'm scared as I'm not at a level to fix an amp. But after a quick google it seems like it may just be the soft clipping 'feature' that creates an article distortion to prevent damage from clipping. Turned it off and so far no distortion. But turning troubleshooting I had the tweeters out and I could see the cabinets were made from chipboard not mdf, which ain't very premium.

So I was doing some googling and if it's worth it to replace crossovers / cabinet. And trying to find the original msrp of these speakers. Found one post on avforum that said around $1000. Well damn I thought these were just the newer version of the 2nd speakers. While the other set was their flagship speakers selling for $1900USD.
 

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xentr_thread_starter
Ordered a couple pairs of outriggers for the speakers as I think they look cool. Ordered new diaphragms for the tweeters. Ordered contact paper (as far as I can tell this is what speakers generally use for the fake veneer) as I want to repair the cabinets on the SE11 MK3s. And then ordered a small class D amp to power a 2nd subwoofer.

And now working on designing the new subwoofer box. Same height and depth as the Paradigm Studio Monitors, just a couple inches wider.

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And internals showing the port and the bracing. I really wanted to use round ports as they look better IMO. But it was impossible. I'd need two 4 inch pipes 40 inches long each in order to keep the port noise low enough. So I'll just make a rectangle one out of mdf.

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EDIT: Just noticed I really didn't explain the 2nd set of speakers in the post above. They are a pair of Paradigm Studio Monitors that I bought 6 months or so ago for $40. I thought they were just older versions of the SE11 MK3s but they are not. They were both sold at the same time. The SE11 MK3s sold for about $1K USD. While the Studio Monitors sold for $1900USD. The Studio Monitors are absolutely better built. But I had never had them in the same room to compare.

EDIT2: Redesigned the subwoofer cabinet. Making it much simplier, thus larger internal volume. And the port only has 1 90 degree turn instead of 2 180s, which should improve output.

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