Honestly haven't used it in 20 years. But a quick google says it may be a good choice. It is an epoxy filler so it should pretty strong. I'll pick some up in the next day or two to test.
Some home audio upgrades
- Thread starter lowfat
- Start date
When I was doing new builds and tiling the custom cabinet guys used it all the time for MDF type stuff.
If bondo works on a car in harsh outdoor elements then it should more than survive on a speaker indoors. There are wood fillers and other things as well but if just going to paint over it anyways bondo seems like a reasonable option.
bondo...duct tapes twin brother from another mother.
Here is what I've came up with for the sub box. Using dowels for all bracing now. Will be so significantly easier. Baffle is 1.5". Rear is 1.25" thick since it won't have any bracing. Rest 3/4" and then 1"x1" bracing on corners, edges. The end of the port is also 1.25" since I can't brace there due to the sub being in the way. Will be 6.95 cubic ft.
All the repairs were done to the 11SE MK3 cabinets. Wrapped all the edges in pool noodles to bring them upstairs safely. Worked on wrapping them today. And holy hell is it time consuming. I worked on it for at least 3 hours and I'm not even done 1 speaker.
I still have the front to do. But I'd give myself a 7.5/10 on this one. My knife slipped a couple times scoring the back. But considering it originally was just painted back before I think it's still an improvement. All the corners and edges are clean. And over all they like 5x better than before.
Edit: originally I wasn't going to do anything with the grey front. But I scuffed it when repairing. Now I need to. And I can't figure out how to cover it with the contact paper. I can't get the grill peg hole inserts out. And I can't get the contact paper over without damaging it. Hmm....
Edit: ordered some higher quality vinyl to see if it will work for the front.
I still have the front to do. But I'd give myself a 7.5/10 on this one. My knife slipped a couple times scoring the back. But considering it originally was just painted back before I think it's still an improvement. All the corners and edges are clean. And over all they like 5x better than before.
Edit: originally I wasn't going to do anything with the grey front. But I scuffed it when repairing. Now I need to. And I can't figure out how to cover it with the contact paper. I can't get the grill peg hole inserts out. And I can't get the contact paper over without damaging it. Hmm....
Edit: ordered some higher quality vinyl to see if it will work for the front.
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Part of me screams, but part of me understands.
LowFat
need some spot putty and crayola perm magic markers to restore the look.
put some putty on cardboard then match your with the markers then fill crators you made and for light scratching use the makers.
need some spot putty and crayola perm magic markers to restore the look.
put some putty on cardboard then match your with the markers then fill crators you made and for light scratching use the makers.
Still doing some research. So haven't started building anything yet. But have decided on a vertical center channel. If 2 speaker are outputting the same same signal, they need to be within 1/4 wavelength from each other. Otherwise there will be cancellation as waves overlap. So at 250Hz, all speakers would née to be within a foot. So for center channels that lay flat and the woofers are on the sides of the midrange, people who are off center will not hear as it should sound. So a speaker that is vertical or a single bass driver would be preferred. But IMO a non symmetrical speaker looks goofy. Thus this design.
Drivers are from a Kef iQ9 tower speaker. The midrange is a coaxial (tweeter in center). The cabinet is pretty large. 24H x 14W x 15D
Worked on redesigning subwoofers for living room. Decided to move to a sealed box 12" JL W7 used for music / main position. Then use a vented 10" JL W3 for the 2nd seating position. This is only for home theatre, so the delay caused by the really low tuning frequency won't matter. I can use a DSP to adjust the delay so the subs hit at the same time. Just not sure how the vented enclosure would affect music. Both subwoofers are exactly the same outer dimensions. 48H x 17.5W x 15D
This is the 12" W7. Due to fact the subwoofer moves over an inch and I didn't want a 3" thick speaker grill, I've recessed the sub 1.5". This sub will get 600W.
And the 10" W3 ported. This one will only get 275W.
The SPL graph. Even tho the 10" has less surface area, getting over half the power, it still is substantially louder below 30Hz due to the port.
But here is the group delay. The ported sub has 100ms of delay, which is HUGE.
Drivers are from a Kef iQ9 tower speaker. The midrange is a coaxial (tweeter in center). The cabinet is pretty large. 24H x 14W x 15D
Worked on redesigning subwoofers for living room. Decided to move to a sealed box 12" JL W7 used for music / main position. Then use a vented 10" JL W3 for the 2nd seating position. This is only for home theatre, so the delay caused by the really low tuning frequency won't matter. I can use a DSP to adjust the delay so the subs hit at the same time. Just not sure how the vented enclosure would affect music. Both subwoofers are exactly the same outer dimensions. 48H x 17.5W x 15D
This is the 12" W7. Due to fact the subwoofer moves over an inch and I didn't want a 3" thick speaker grill, I've recessed the sub 1.5". This sub will get 600W.
And the 10" W3 ported. This one will only get 275W.
The SPL graph. Even tho the 10" has less surface area, getting over half the power, it still is substantially louder below 30Hz due to the port.
But here is the group delay. The ported sub has 100ms of delay, which is HUGE.
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Bought some speakers off FB. Having issues with tweeters on 3 of them. Swapped a working tweeter in to one of the Studio 100s. Went from no highs to almost no highs. So it's both a tweeter and crossover issue. I can likely fix tweeter.
Pull crossovers from the 100s and the 570 center channel. This speaker seemed to have no sound from mid or tweeter. You can see 2 of the inductors look really dark. Will need to pull them to see if they are cooked or not. And then you can see the 2 caps behind the one inductor are blown. We're they the cause or the effect? Hmm.
Crossovers from the 100s. Same pcb. But not the same arrangement. One has a resistor where the the doesn't and different caps. Wonder why? Will need to find where I put my multimeter.
Pull crossovers from the 100s and the 570 center channel. This speaker seemed to have no sound from mid or tweeter. You can see 2 of the inductors look really dark. Will need to pull them to see if they are cooked or not. And then you can see the 2 caps behind the one inductor are blown. We're they the cause or the effect? Hmm.
Crossovers from the 100s. Same pcb. But not the same arrangement. One has a resistor where the the doesn't and different caps. Wonder why? Will need to find where I put my multimeter.
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