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Sound deadening the car. And a few audio upgrades.

lowfat

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Done for the day. Got all the speakers installed.

Dash. 'Soundqubed HDX-SP35. 0 reviews on Amazon lol. But comparing the Theile Small paramenters they are the same speakers as these, which are reviewed well. And these were like $10 cheaper. I just wanted a simple 3.5" midrange that didn't have a tweeter. These will be going through the DSP.
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Front doors. Hertz H165s. I just printed an adapter to change the 6x9 adapters, I made before, to fit the 6.5 + tweeter. I ran another set of wires for the tweeters. Tweeters and mid will both be amped separately. BUT they'll share the same DSP signal. I think the DSP should be able to overcome any issues I have w/ the amp's crossover.
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Rear doors. Mids from JL C3-650 components. Tweeters are blown and won't be using the crossover. These will go through DSP. They'll be used as midbass only. From 45Hz to 160Hz.
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lowfat

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Everything is going under passenger seat. Going to be a tight fit.
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Spent probably 7 hours out there wiring today. It ain't looking pretty so far. But I am doing my best to cable management. But 8 channels, 2 amps, the level converter, relay, DSP, and other stuff there are SO many cables.

Level converter is wired. Amps are mosly wired. Relay is wired. Still need to tap fuse box, run tweeter wires under carpet to amp. Plus DSP wiring.

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This is still a WIP. It won't be as good as my PCs but at least should be manageable hopefully. :p
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lowfat

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hows the back doin? Heh!
When I'm leaning over I'm able to rest on my knee so not too bad. But my legs are sore from just sitting in the same spot all day.

Where I'm at so far. So many wires.... Anyways just need to wire the speakers. It is raining tho so will need to wait for it to stop so i can fish the tweeters.
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Also have noticed that the rain drips on to my speaker magnets since they are way bigger than stock, and then it drips in to vehicle. So I'm going to have to make some baffles for all the speakers to deflect the rain away from them.
 

lowfat

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So the speaker rain deflectors I made do in fact work great. We had on /off thunderstorms today and no water dripping in cabin.
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I finished up all the speaker wiring. Ran wiring for the dash cams mostly. Front one I've ran to the headliner but didn't have time to remove the ADAS cover to split it through to dash cam. Rear one I've ran up to the hatch but I'll need to remove the rear seats again in order to remove the panels to access the cable routing holes in order to route it to the hatch.
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Finished wiring up everything under hood. Broke the first power wire crimp by overtighting. For remote I taped the only open / wired option in the fuse box under the hood. Diagram just shows that fuse as crossed out. Go to start. Check engine light. Uh oh. Has to be the fuse tap. Pull it and back to normal. So I guess crossed out means do not use. Then why the hell is there a fuse for it?

So fine I'll tap a fuse in the cabin. Should have done this originally but not quite sure why I didn't. This fuse box uses the smaller fuses. So crimp up a tap and go to install it, It just won't fit. Can't seat enough to stay in place. So I try the larger fuse tap. It works. What is the point of these tiny fuses when they are literally the same size as the larger ones. The 5mm in height ain't a limiting factor? WTF.

But now I'm bushed. I expected a day. Or maybe a day and a half. Here I am @ 4 and not done. FML.
 

clshades

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Why wouldn't you pull right off the battery and fuse that wire instead? There's going the be a live wire and a live wire with only the key turned to accessory/radio.

When you say tapping a fuse, do you mean bending a wire under one side of the fuse and pushing it back in?
 

lowfat

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Why wouldn't you pull right off the battery and fuse that wire instead? There's going the be a live wire and a live wire with only the key turned to accessory/radio.

When you say tapping a fuse, do you mean bending a wire under one side of the fuse and pushing it back in?
Taping off the fuse is for the relay. There is still a connection to the battery which is fused. Without the relay the amp and all the devices would be on 24/7 and would kill the battery.

Using a fuse tap like this. Remove existing fuse if one. From the way I understand it, if I didn't have the 2nd slot filled for the existing fuse, it shouldn't have completed the circuit. So I have no idea why it would cause the CEL to come on. But it did.
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This morning I did install the new fuse tap in the cabin and after some troubleshooting all speakers are working. BUT I messed up on my measurements on the speaker brackets and I can't install any of the door skins. :ROFLMAO:

And of course my printer is being a POS. Really hope this damn thing can finish the revised speaker adapters.
 

moocow

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Vancouver, BC
Could it be a voltage diff cause by extra device on the tap causing the CEL? Also, are you going to start blasting Taylor Swift as you drive around the hood?
 

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