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Work in progress Warmachine 5.0

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
So, I'm about to place an order with EK to get everything I'm going to need for my new loop in the Lian Li O11 XL.

I currently have the following in Warmachine 4:
1 x EK Quantum Velocity D-RGB - AMD Nickel + Plexi Waterblock
1 x EK CoolStream SE 360 Radiator
6 x EK HTC Classic 16mm – Black Nickel Hard Line Fittings
1 x EK AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Black Nickel
1 x EK Quantum Torque Extender Rotary MM 14 - Black Nickel
1 x EK AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black Nickel
1 x EK CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black Nickel
1 x Bitspower G1/4 Temperature Sensor

Here's my parts list:

EK Wishlist.JPG

So my plan is to mount a rad at the top and bottom of the case with 3 Corsair ML120's pulling air up through the bottom radiator and 3 ML120's pushing the hot air out through the top radiator. Everything will be hardlined back to the distro block. Out of the drain port on the back I'm going to put one of the 20mm extenders into a rotary fitting. That rotary fitting will go into the T fitting with a bottom drain and a thermal probe on top. The drain will be plumbed through the bottom f the case using a pass through so that the pump doesn't interfere with the valve operation and it remains the lowest point in the case.

Am I missing anything on my list up there?
 

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
I was trying to work up how to wire up the 10 fans to my Commander Pro.

Here's the plan:

Fan Connections
Fan Port 1 to a Silverstone SST-CPF04-USA 8 Port Fan Splitter
Fan Ports 2-5 to the top radiators ML120's.
Fan Port 6 to the rear mounted LL120.

SilverStone Fan Hub
Fan Ports 1-3 to the ML120 Pro's on the bottom of the lower radiator.
Fan Ports 4-6 to the ML120 LED's on the top of the lower radiator.

RGB LED Hub
LED Ports 1-3 to the ML120 LED's on the bottom of the upper radiator.
LED Ports 4-6 to the ML120 LED's on the top of the lower radiator.

The RGB LED Hub will be connected to the LED 1 header on the Commander Pro. This leaves one RGB fan (the LL120) connected directly to the LED 2 header on the Commander Pro.

I have a G1/4 temperature probe for my water cooling loop that I plan to plug into the Temp 1 input.

I think this will work and give me maximum control over everything without putting two great a load on the Commanders power rails. I like that the Silverstone hub has a cap to ensure even power to the fans. I'm considering adding a light strip kit which will likely connect via a Lighting Node Pro anyway.
 

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
Worked up a wiring schematic to layout how the fans and LED's will be connected to the Commander Pro. Looks like it's going to be a cable management challenge for sure!

1601827459701.png
 

sswilson

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Dec 9, 2006
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Moncton NB
Slight problem there..... I'm assuming the lower R/H block is your Commander pro? If so, your non-Corsair Led strips will not be compatible unless you successfully re-wire them. Even if they're the same operating voltage, corsair uses a non-standard pin-out.
 

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
Slight problem there..... I'm assuming the lower R/H block is your Commander pro? If so, your non-Corsair Led strips will not be compatible unless you successfully re-wire them. Even if they're the same operating voltage, corsair uses a non-standard pin-out.

There's a vendor on eBay who makes adapters to allow standard 5V D-RGB strips to be controlled by the Commander Pro. Several users on the Corsair forums confirm that they work great. I plan to test run them through a Lighting Node Pro first. That way if something fails spectacularly it shouldn't take the Commander with it.
 

sswilson

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Rgr. Sounds good. Just wanted to make sure that you knew they weren't compatible without some kind of adapter.
 

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
I'm going to have one radiator as a push/pull setup, and another as either a push or pull setup. I'm wondering if it makes much difference which I mount where.

My initial gut is to put the push/pull on the bottom and a push radiator venting out the top. This should hopefully give me positive air pressure.

Thoughts?
 

Lysrin

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Mar 10, 2014
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4,036
Location
Nova Scotia
In my situation, after recommendations from on here, I ended up with better temps by pulling cool air in through the rads from outside. By several degrees under load. So I ended up with two front 120s pulling in, two top 120s pulling in, and a single vent fan at the back. Originally I had two pulling in front, but two exhausting through the top rad. Didn't work as well for temps.

Mine is a smaller loop that yours, but that was a wisdom on here and it was proved out with the results in my case.
 

Skippman

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
475
Location
St. Louis, MO USA
Here was my original design for the fan configuration.

1601999568542.png

If I did it your way that would be 6 intakes and one exhaust though which is quite a lot of positive pressure for one exhaust. Guess I need more study.
 

Lysrin

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I'm no expert Skippman :) My current build is my first custom loop build. Just passing on what was recommended to me, and seemed to work, but I don't have any other personal experiences to compare to. It does make sense to me that cool external air for the rads would cool better than warm internal air, and that is borne out in my testing. But you have bigger rads, bigger case, and a lot more fans. All could be a factor to the best performance scheme for you.

I've never paid a tonne of attention to positive/negative air pressure tbh, beyond thinking about dust in the case.
 
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