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How to: Change subwoofer in Logitech Z-5500

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If you look at home theater subwoofers instead of car audio ones, you can find single voice coil, 8Ω versions. Obviously this is a moot point, but just thought I'd bring it up that you don't have to limit yourself to car audio, since they tend to have higher power handling capabilities and therefore lower SPL sensitivity.

Great job on the sub!

And I completely agree with Jake, the guy ranting in this thread doesn't understand.
 
Hey, thanks for the replies guys. I really appreciate it. I will try to seal the sub to the box better and I will post back with results. Thanks again!

EDIT: while after sealing everything back up properly the sub is now working properly! Here is a picture of it. I know the grill is on it, but we throw a lot of parties and I didn't want the new sub getting kicked in ;) Thanks for helping me get it running guys!

10z5lrb.jpg
 
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Hate to get into an argument, but Tomba is actually correct: An underpowered amp thats clipping when unable to provide sufficient RMS power to a subwoofer speaker can damage and destroy it. A quick google search will show this to be true, but I've grabbed a couple of examples:

How can an underpowered amp damage speakers??? | AVForums.com - UK Online

Reasons For underpowered amps blowing speakers? - Gearslutz.com

A more details: Driving the sub to the point where the Amp will clip will create a square wave signal, which is about the same as putting DC current directly to the voice coil of the sub speaker. The amp will survive, but you can easily burn a voice coil. I've seen this happen many times, a friend of my family repairs speakers for a living, he is a professional and his experience is in the decades. His most common repair? Subwoofers from clubs. Why? Many sub speakers running off amps that cannot handle them. Their voice coils burn, then distort and touch the magnet while playing, causing the whole cone to seize in place.

So, just saying that it is Possible - it might not happen, but it's certainly not the ideal way to be running a subwoofer. You can destroy it, given the right circumstances.
 
I can agree with you 100% if the amplifier is running above the RMS limit (of course assuming that the manufacturer was honest in supplying said limit), however I was always under the impression that the RMS limit listed by both the amplifier and the driver was the maximum power that both could operate properly. Or, to put it differently, it's the limit before any clipping occurs. Since the only power mentioned was RMS power, I believe that lead to the disagreements above.

As I mentioned though, this hinges greatly on manufacturer honesty, and doesn't take into account degradation of the components over the life of the unit.
 
Thread revival! This is even being used by Google's AI summary :ROFLMAO:

Any good sources for woofers in Canada?

I came across this store which has these that seem suitable?

Or go with a similar idea to the OP, with a dual voice coil subwoofer meant for cars?

There's some cheaper models on that QComponents site, but I'm guessing I need to stay above the 188W RMS spec? If I put in say a 140W woofer, it could blow out if running at maximum volume/maximum bass?

And side idea, if I bought this: https://www.amazon.ca/DA100-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Electronic-Adjustment/dp/B0GCJSPXDG to use with a pair of bookshelf speakers, could I technically wire up the sub to this too? Since the amp is only 2ohm/100W though, I'm guessing it would be super underpowered with a 8ohm/200W sub...

I guess they're all around the $100 price point (trying to keep costs minimal in case it's not the culprit). I suppose I should tear it apart and confirm the sub is blown too, but it surely sounds like it is.
 

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