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In this pic, you can make out the size of the printed corner adjustment wheel. when i adjust z height live, i push the wheel one tab only. And i misscounted, it's 1/12th turn - 12 tabs per wheel.
From making so many prints, I can feel - 'see' - how a first layer should look like for proper adhesion. Then yes, I adjust on the fly while the brim is being printed. Hence why it's 3-5 lines wide. Gives me time (lenght?) to adjust the z live.
But no, not a quarter turn but 1/16th turn. If...
Nice setups.
But I've tried a couple versions of auto bed leveling. none worked to my liking. this borosilicate glass is so smooth and level its unreal. I leveled the x-axis against the glass once, eyeball the gap from head to glass then print. minimal adjustments while printing the brim with...
PID done, flatliner.
Extruder multi done.
Wall thk too thick by 0.04mm. Easy fix.
Pressure advance set up complete.
Still manually tramming the bed when the brim is printing. Screw that autolevel shit.
I am pleased with the result.
Had enough of that bowden tube disconnecting at the extruder, so goodbye tube and hello direct drive. 40$ for the basic kit over at Aliexpress, since I already had the bmg extruder on hand.
Calibration is tomorrow night.
had 2 2-disks version die recently; one was the power brick giving up the ghost and killing mb + hdds, second mb died while corrupting data on both hdds (both units were used for data backup, in raid 1).
moreover, their mobile app is terrible for external access (both android and ios)...
i always:
manually level bed while hot, never cold
zero Z, then manually move X and Y with motors disabled to level the bed
print with a 3 wide skirt/brim, so as to adjust bed level live. 0.5mm from piece, helps with corner adhesion too
wait for the bed to fully cool off, before removing the...
Yes, called a fang. printed to suit a Noctua head fan and an axial 5015 fan. seen on left is the bed leveling IR sensor while on the right is a provision for an inductive sensor.
it is more of a matter of learning what had to be done on our machines... i do not know the Ender series, and what Creality learned from their user base which they may have introduce as upgrades on their latest printers.
i for one would not buy my cr-10s if i knew what i was about to spend on...
Being only the beginning, did the same mods on mine... converting Y axis to linear rails presently. Another worthy mod was the bed heater to a 120v (750W) model, controlled by a SSR.