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General question(s) on Ethernet crimping / cables

sswilson

sswilson

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I'm considering finally grabbing one of the pass-through crimper kits as well as a box of cat 6e cable.... anything I should be keeping in mind?

So far it looks like there's a plethora of similar sub-$40 crimper kits on amazon with what looks like cable testers built into the handle, anything wrong with those?

As far as the cable goes.... the boxed cable that comes up in a quick search all seems to be twisted pair.... how does that work with the pass-through crimper, do you just untwist it after stripping the insulation, or am I looking at the wrong type of cable? Do I need to worry about anything if I might want to use a cable I created for PoE?

Any specific recommendations for connectors + boots?

Thanks in advance.
 
sswilson said:
As far as the cable goes.... the boxed cable that comes up in a quick search all seems to be twisted pair....
Click to expand...
because it is all supposed to be twisted pair :). Supposedly reduces electromagnetic interference and crosstalk (don't remember the science behind why it helps).

The flat cables that are not twisted have a higher risk of interference and such.
 
I have essentially this exact kit and it's served me great for probably thousands of crimps. And the wiring guide built in is very handy as a reference since I always need a reminder no matter how many I do.

Make sure the connectors you buy are designed for pass-through crimping.

For cabling, just make sure you're buying 4 pair cat6, and don't get cca. (copper coated aluminum) it's a fire hazard and shouldn't exist. I'm a big fan of Infinite Cables since they're Canadian, and they make very solid products.

I wouldn't recommend outdoor cables unless you actually need to bury the cable or it'll be in a very wet environment, since it has the perifin wax gunk all through it.

Plenum rated cabling isn't necessary for home use. It's only really for commercial or industrial structured cabling. You'll likely spend a lot more for it and never need it. It also often has a heavier wrapping, and doesn't have as much flex. That may or may not matter to you.

Here's a very short video that essentially shows how it's done. I've never used the felt tip, but it's actually a pretty smart trick.
 
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One more note... if you're running any distance, especially near or around other cabling/power/etc, then you should consider getting shielded cabling. The video I linked above is shielded cabling; it's the foil stuff he peels off after taking off the sleeve.
 
Caldezar said:
One more note... if you're running any distance, especially near or around other cabling/power/etc, then you should consider getting shielded cabling. The video I linked above is shielded cabling; it's the foil stuff he peels off after taking off the sleeve.
Click to expand...
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't shielding require you to ground it as well to work effectively. Otherwise it becomes an antenna? So you have to use shielded the whole path so its all connected? I am only asking as I was wiring my basement and came across some information that mentioned this. So I'm not sure how much of it is true.
 
Black_Ice-Dragon said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't shielding require you to ground it as well to work effectively. Otherwise it becomes an antenna? So you have to use shielded the whole path so its all connected? I am only asking as I was wiring my basement and came across some information that mentioned this. So I'm not sure how much of it is true.
Click to expand...

Yes it requires grounding, but that just means using shielded tips such as these, and making sure you correctly ground the patch panel using the include grounding cable. The patch panel should have a green grounding cable you can connect to the rack, and the rack should be grounded from there. EZPZ.
 
xentr_thread_starter
Really gotta pay close attention to the descriptions on the cable..... lots of CCA being described as "solid core" (as opposed to "pure copper") without specifically stating that it's CCA.
 
Also in the video I think he did b-spec. Always do b-spec just in part to annoy the a-spec guys ;)
 
Izerous said:
Also in the video I think he did b-spec. Always do b-spec just in part to annoy the a-spec guys ;)
Click to expand...

Anyone that does structured cabling in a-spec should have their cabling privileges revoked. Re-terminating cabling is a pain in the ass when you don't realize the other end is a different pin out. It's 'B' or nothing for this guy. 😝

sswilson said:
Really gotta pay close attention to the descriptions on the cable..... lots of CCA being described as "solid core" (as opposed to "pure copper") without specifically stating that it's CCA.
Click to expand...

The rule for me is typically that any deal on cabling that seems too good to be true, probably is. Stick to name brands like FastCat, Beldin or CommScope of you want to be sure. Or stick to a company like Infinite Cables that typically doesn't even stock CCA.
 
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