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Primer necessary?

That tool is bit of an overkill...it's for rigorous sanding jobs. Not for this job where there will be tight corners and areas. Remember the first sanding before applying anything is just scruffing up the surface so paint adheres better - using high grit sandpaper (500 and up). You're merely roughing the surface (do not apply alot of pressure, let the sandpaper do the job) and shouldn only take a few mins at most.

Then subsequent sanding (use wetsanding) in between coats is for removing any imperfections from the paint job that might arise - like paint sags, uneven coats, paint blobs. Remember for the first coat the most common mistake people do is they think they have to have complete coverage and invariably end up overspraying areas making the paint job look uneven and blotchy. Just work quick with the spray ...if you miss an area don't worry about it (get it at the next coating). It's more important to do several light coats than to do 1 or 2 heavy coats. WetSand in-between coats once it's dry with low grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections which should be minimal if you followed the above steps.

Also for interior it's better to use flat paint (gloss paint reflects more heat). No need to clear coat at the end.
For the exterior I'd use a semi gloss paint (or satin for those who dislike too shiney surfaces)...several thin coats with high grit wetsandings in-between coats and finally,finish up with a clear coat to protect it. Gloss paint hardens better besides looking glossy which is why it's better for exteriors.

If you're using rustoleum, no priming needed (rust paints don't need primer). For other types of paint you do - self etching primer is preferable. If you can't find that - Zinsser Bullesye or Stix would be my recommendation.

That's for the DIY, then there's powdercoating in which case I'd derivet the whole case and send it to a shop to do it.
Good luck!
Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
steel wool the inside of the case
primer the inside with self etch
wipe down that
spray light coat of final color
repeat 2-3x

wipe hands and enjoy
 
xentr_thread_starter
That tool is bit of an overkill...it's for rigorous sanding jobs. Not for this job where there will be tight corners and areas. Remember the first sanding before applying anything is just scruffing up the surface so paint adheres better - using high grit sandpaper (500 and up). You're merely roughing the surface (do not apply alot of pressure, let the sandpaper do the job) and shouldn only take a few mins at most.

Then subsequent sanding (use wetsanding) in between coats is for removing any imperfections from the paint job that might arise - like paint sags, uneven coats, paint blobs. Remember for the first coat the most common mistake people do is they think they have to have complete coverage and invariably end up overspraying areas making the paint job look uneven and blotchy. Just work quick with the spray ...if you miss an area don't worry about it (get it at the next coating). It's more important to do several light coats than to do 1 or 2 heavy coats. WetSand in-between coats once it's dry with low grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections which should be minimal if you followed the above steps.

Also for interior it's better to use flat paint (gloss paint reflects more heat). No need to clear coat at the end.
For the exterior I'd use a semi gloss paint (or satin for those who dislike too shiney surfaces)...several thin coats with high grit wetsandings in-between coats and finally,finish up with a clear coat to protect it. Gloss paint hardens better besides looking glossy which is why it's better for exteriors.

If you're using rustoleum, no priming needed (rust paints don't need primer). For other types of paint you do - self etching primer is preferable. If you can't find that - Zinsser Bullesye or Stix would be my recommendation.

That's for the DIY, then there's powdercoating in which case I'd derivet the whole case and send it to a shop to do it.
Good luck!
Hope that helps.

Thank you so much for an excellent and informative response! Definitely helped :thumb:

steel wool the inside of the case
primer the inside with self etch
wipe down that
spray light coat of final color
repeat 2-3x

wipe hands and enjoy

Quick and dirty, also an extremely helpful post. Just a little surprised there were no anti-900 remarks coming from you :bleh:
 
Thank you so much for an excellent and informative response! Definitely helped :thumb:



Quick and dirty, also an extremely helpful post. Just a little surprised there were no anti-900 remarks coming from you :bleh:

Antec 900 is like Vista; My opinion is well known and I don't need to say anything ;)
 
xentr_thread_starter
Hahaha that's excellent. I guess to each their own.
 
would 600 grit wet dry sandpaper be a little too coarse for sanding in between coats of paint?
i have all the panels from my black pearl off the case and primered,and am ready tomorrow to start the painting.
 
xentr_thread_starter
I've heard anything from 400 - 1200 grit wet sanding is acceptable. Depends on how shiny you want it I believe.
 
i ended up using 1000 grit.
i contacted plastikote about a couple ?`s i had,and their replies were prompt and very helpful.
very important to let the paint dry-cure completely before applying clearcoat.

if applied too soon the clearcoat can go white,which would suck beyond words.
 

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