A Tools Thread
- Thread starter lowfat
- Start date
Over last couple days finished calibrating the table saw. Took a lot longer than expected but it's as good as it will get.
One issue w/ zero clearance inserts is the lack of air flow really humps up dust collection. So I tried to add some slots to help. I believe I over did it. I should really need any of them besides the ones near the front.
I've also worked on sealing up the saw cabinet as best as possible all the air flow has to come through the saw blade insert. I've stuffed in closed cell foam between the cabinet and the cast iron top. But it is still leaky. May try some spray foam to really seal it up.
I've tried adding a pressure valve in case the saw blade insert gets completely covered and pressure builds up. Definitely works. I tried pressing the reducer against it and it works too. So I'll be able to use the dust extractor and the big separator with smaller tools as well. Just will need to make a new reducer with a pressure valve as well.
Big issue with the saw is the base. It can be moved easily but their is no leveling feet! And my basement floor is no where near level. So I think the next thing I'll be building is a new table saw base.
One issue w/ zero clearance inserts is the lack of air flow really humps up dust collection. So I tried to add some slots to help. I believe I over did it. I should really need any of them besides the ones near the front.
I've also worked on sealing up the saw cabinet as best as possible all the air flow has to come through the saw blade insert. I've stuffed in closed cell foam between the cabinet and the cast iron top. But it is still leaky. May try some spray foam to really seal it up.
I've tried adding a pressure valve in case the saw blade insert gets completely covered and pressure builds up. Definitely works. I tried pressing the reducer against it and it works too. So I'll be able to use the dust extractor and the big separator with smaller tools as well. Just will need to make a new reducer with a pressure valve as well.
Big issue with the saw is the base. It can be moved easily but their is no leveling feet! And my basement floor is no where near level. So I think the next thing I'll be building is a new table saw base.
You'd love my buddies custom table. It's built for everything.
My approach to sanding drywall has been a 5in orbital sander attached to a shop vac.
Well even using the really quiet DeWalt vacuum just air air rushing through the sander (even with the sander off) was uncomfortable enough to want hearing protection.
Got my hands on a proper 9in cordless DeWalt sander meant for drywall. Attached to the exact same vacuum could have a conversation with someone while sanding
Well even using the really quiet DeWalt vacuum just air air rushing through the sander (even with the sander off) was uncomfortable enough to want hearing protection.
Got my hands on a proper 9in cordless DeWalt sander meant for drywall. Attached to the exact same vacuum could have a conversation with someone while sanding
I assumed an orbital sander would pull too much material off too quickly, but might give it a try when I get to mudding.
I've used the (reynolds?) rectangular hand sander with the vacuum attachment and it's decent for patching. We'll see if it's enough for mudding and taping whole rooms, but I generally try to keep my coats pretty thin.
Got the last of my metric measuring equipment (for now). The T-square is nice. And unlike imperial one I have, it isn't possible to assemble it out of square. The layout squares are thicker than my iGaging ones, but are missing features (that I never used).
Did a quick and dirt build for new base for the saw over my days off. Besides the melamine top, most of the lumber was used before. Wood cost was probably $20. Castors and leveling feet were about $70. The saw sits on the plastic dust collection funnel/base. And it isn't quite sitting level for some reason. It hasn't been bolted down as I need to figure out why. But happy with outcome. Will be making a wood wing to full the huge void in the fence. And add a few drawers for tools needed to run the saw.
Did a quick and dirt build for new base for the saw over my days off. Besides the melamine top, most of the lumber was used before. Wood cost was probably $20. Castors and leveling feet were about $70. The saw sits on the plastic dust collection funnel/base. And it isn't quite sitting level for some reason. It hasn't been bolted down as I need to figure out why. But happy with outcome. Will be making a wood wing to full the huge void in the fence. And add a few drawers for tools needed to run the saw.
Had decided to make a Festool Domino clone (see 3d printing thread). Didn't do much research on the actual wood domino tenons you could purchase before hand. So I'm on KMS website, they listed 7mm width. Ok cool, that is pretty much exactly the same as 9/32. Freud sells a 9/32 straight cut router bit. So I order the bit and the dominos. Get bit 4-5 days ago, tossed the packaging. Get the dominos today. They are 4mm... The KMS website was just wrong. Sigh.
So do some more research and the Domino uses 4, 6, 8 and 10mm sizes. And of course all routers in Canada are imperial. So you cant just buy metric router bits. And the router collets aren't going to fit them either. The Vevor trim router I have is a clone of Makita. I was able to find a Makita 6mm & 8mm collets that should fit, on Ali.
But then the bits.... 5x30mm dominoes are about half the price of 6x40mm. So I'd prefer them as I mostly just use sheet goods. But trying to find ANY 5mm router bit that didn't use a weird 5mm shank took me 3 hours! I ended up finding just 2. Technically they seem to be both for aluminum. I don't know if they are an up or down cut. I guess we'll see when they get here.
If it ends up working good, I may try to sell a couple on FB.
@SugarJ I got the DW735 folding tables today...Man what a POS lol. The hardware was all warped. Threads were terrible. And I had to force rethread one of the bolts.
The fact that the outfeed table can't fold is rather irritating. I found this on Makerworld. Magnet was $7 from Aliexpress.
So do some more research and the Domino uses 4, 6, 8 and 10mm sizes. And of course all routers in Canada are imperial. So you cant just buy metric router bits. And the router collets aren't going to fit them either. The Vevor trim router I have is a clone of Makita. I was able to find a Makita 6mm & 8mm collets that should fit, on Ali.
But then the bits.... 5x30mm dominoes are about half the price of 6x40mm. So I'd prefer them as I mostly just use sheet goods. But trying to find ANY 5mm router bit that didn't use a weird 5mm shank took me 3 hours! I ended up finding just 2. Technically they seem to be both for aluminum. I don't know if they are an up or down cut. I guess we'll see when they get here.
If it ends up working good, I may try to sell a couple on FB.
@SugarJ I got the DW735 folding tables today...Man what a POS lol. The hardware was all warped. Threads were terrible. And I had to force rethread one of the bolts.
The fact that the outfeed table can't fold is rather irritating. I found this on Makerworld. Magnet was $7 from Aliexpress.
I need to get my butt in gear and finish some mudding of a drywall project I started years ago, you guys are making me feel bad with all these awesome shop stories. There's some huge gaps in the walls from a renovation I had done and I never got around to a final mud coat, ughh what a mess it will be.
I'm in the same boat. I have a few started projected that made it to 80% that I didn't push across the finish line. Like I blew holes in the wall of the basement utility room to fit the server rack but didn't put doors up to cover the holes etc. Tore apart the back entry and painted it but didn't replace the flooring yet so I didn't put up new trim and more.
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