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Fitting/pump Help

Different tops for the MCP655 barely have an affect on performance. You can gain up to .2 GPM depending on the top. They are mostly for aethethics. On the other hand for the MCP355, a top can make a rather large difference.

And FYI 3/8ID 5/8OD Primoflex will stretch over 1/2" fittings. Hell it can even stretch over 5/8" fittings with enough force and hot water.
 
homer98 said:
Would you guys still recommend a top? everyone is saying you get better efficiency/performance/aesthetics. Thoughts? and if so, any preferable tops?
Click to expand...
Last I looked I believe it was a 5-7% increasing in performance for the EK top V2, as I said in PM you can always cut the stock 655 fittings and tap the pump for G1/4 fittings. Very easy to do if you have a tap and a hacksaw.

EDIT:
And FYI 3/8ID 5/8OD Primoflex will stretch over 1/2" fittings. Hell it can even stretch over 5/8" fittings with enough force and hot water.
Click to expand...
I tried with Feser 3/8 and gave up, maybe I should have used boiling water instead of just hot water.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
xentr_thread_starter
Heh, ok. When I was talking to you before about the tubing and fittings. thats the stuff you recommended. So should I just go with 1/2" fittings for tighter fit or try to stick to the 3/8"?
 
Supergrover said:
EDIT:
I tried with Feser 3/8 and gave up, maybe I should have used boiling water instead of just hot water.
Click to expand...
The difference in stretchability is huge between using hot water and boiling water from a kettle.
homer98 said:
Heh, ok. When I was talking to you before about the tubing and fittings. thats the stuff you recommended. So should I just go with 1/2" fittings for tighter fit or try to stick to the 3/8"?
Click to expand...

I would use the bitspower 3/8" fittings. Spending hours stretching tubing makes your hands (well at least my girly hands) extremely sore. Not worth the time. The Primoflex tubing is rather sticky. I've never had it pull off a barb ever, actually I have to almost always pry it off the tubing to get it off. Every time I've had a leak with it was because it was so tight to started to pull the fitting loose if the tubing was applied to the fitting w/ a twist to it.
 
xentr_thread_starter
Alright guys. Thanks for all this info, very helpful. I am exhausted and heading to bed. Im sure I will have more questions once I start putting the loop together and finalizing components. Cheers !
 
sorry to thread hijack here , would putting one of those on my mcp655 increase performance especially with 2 radiators in one loop?
 
xentr_thread_starter
What causes the most restriction? is it the actual blocks that reduce it the most or the fittings?
 
It's definitely the blocks. Although, some blocks are significantly more restrictive than the rest.

And for the record, 90 degree elbows and fittings are NOT that bad lol.
 
Keywork said:
It's definitely the blocks. Although, some blocks are significantly more restrictive than the rest.

And for the record, 90 degree elbows and fittings are NOT that bad lol.
Click to expand...


Agreed! The waterblocks are your biggest source of restriction. But, depending on exactly which and how many radiators you have, they can be a source of restriction as well. Skinnee Labs | Triple Radiator Comparison V2

From an oilfield background, when doing quick and dirty friction loss calculations There are some pretty widely accepted shortcuts. Of course it depends greatly on the radius of the elbows, but this is easier than getting the engineering data and doing "real" maths.

d = inner diameter of pipe / tubing. input units = output units.

90* elbow = 30d
45* elbow = 20d
Straight through a T = 15d
90* turn in a T = 60d

So for example, a 90* fitting in a 1/2" ID system would be equivalent to 15" of tubing. Mind you, for watercooling this is a conservative calculation as most fittings(Bitspower anyway) have an ID closer to .4" rather than a full .5" ID.
 
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