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UPS recommendations for short voltage drops

Sounds like you probably more want noise filtering rather than UPS, so a power conditioner?

Tripp Lite IsoBar might be an affordable option, otherwise you could look at more serious HT-oriented products, perhaps something from Furman, Panamax or Black Lion Audio.
can you measure your power at the box? I have a client in a new development and because his place is one of the few there his power is high and wreaks havoc on his electronics. he's put a Tripp Lite ISOBAR on each one now.
 
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Sounds like you probably more want noise filtering rather than UPS, so a power conditioner?

Tripp Lite IsoBar might be an affordable option, otherwise you could look at more serious HT-oriented products, perhaps something from Furman, Panamax or Black Lion Audio.

I'm no expect but these would only aid in surgeprotection? I read that power bars/panels only have some form of voltage filtering to help provide clean power but nothing in comparison to the AVR/UPS
 
I'm no expect but these would only aid in surgeprotection? I read that power bars/panels only have some form of voltage filtering to help provide clean power but nothing in comparison to the AVR/UPS
Well you mentioned it's only when "high load" appliances turn on, so I think that's usually EFI/noise. But I suppose it could be causing a brownout too, though if that's the case, an electrician visit is probably best to split the circuit.

bingo,
Snagged one of these, I can have my modem/router run for a few hours if the power goes out as well instead of having to tether to my phone.
I don't think it offers any "backup" power, I think it's probably just a large capacitor inside to smooth out the voltage. You'd want a full UPS with AVR for that purpose but I'd say you're looking at roughly double the price too for something decent.
 
xentr_thread_starter
I don't think it offers any "backup" power, I think it's probably just a large capacitor inside to smooth out the voltage. You'd want a full UPS with AVR for that purpose but I'd say you're looking at roughly double the price too for something decent.
Hmm, I believe you are right, I thought the VA rating was related to capacity. The specs show runtime as 0 on another site, curious as to how this compensates for a brownout if its prolonged more so than a flicker.

Cyberpower have these,
What is VA ratings defining then? is that just another unit for max wattage for the out at a given time?
 
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all modern UPS units don't really clean up your power but they keep it within safe ranges by boosting or lowering when spikes/drops out happen then they switch to batter in MS to protect against said spikes/drops that are beyond their lowering/boosting range there not just to power things when your power goes out, hence why you may see it go to batter for a couple of seconds then back to ac power when those spikes/drops happen but still achieving your goal of protecting your hardware.

if you want peak protection from Noise you just have to set your APC UPS to high sensitivity that all I had to do. To my understanding all the good brands Cyberpower/APC have automatic voltage regulation or what they call AVR



the only difference I can see if Cyberpower has a line of AVR units but almost all APC units have AVR nowadays, anyone of them are good units imho
 
bingo,
Snagged one of these, I can have my modem/router run for a few hours if the power goes out as well instead of having to tether to my phone.
That is a 220V unit ... your modem and such is near a 220V power source? (Actually one description states 120v another 220v in the details so maybe just weird text for the listing)

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Simulated sin waves are flat and square shaped and thats what you get from the cheaper AVR units. The pure sin wave series I mentioned as a smooth wave form instead of the jagged shape. If for things like audio equipment and TV the nicer wave form can be ideal if they are already proving to be sensitive to crappy power.

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By code a furnace is already on a circuit of its own so simply splitting circuits likely isn't going to solve anything since your already not on the same circuit as the furnace.
 
Are the PFC sinewave better for very sensitive devices sure will most devices work just fine using a standard UPS with a square sinewave yes, it all depends on what your powering and budget ( I almost bought a Genset inverter but found out from my electrical engineer buddy that I could just use a Genset with one of my UPS cause he told me as long as it's in the Voltage range and Hz arent jumping all over the place then I am good )

here's the page for the PFC sinewave from Cyberpower and they tend to cost a lot more than a basic UPS that will do the same thing so it comes down to budget and devices used I think. or if you can find one for the price of a unit with just basic AVR


or if you want a pure sinewave with APC UPS just buy the Back-UPS Pro line they seem to have a pure wave but any unit with a pure sinewave is about double form a modified wave with Cyberpower or APC
 
The problem is, it's still a really wide range for voltage. From my Cyberpower 1350PFCLCD for example:

1644953345201.webp

The APC AVR unit (non-UPS) offered 90V - 140V as the range, so slightly more sensitive at brownouts, but still I'm still doubting it will help with your TV/HDMI issues.

A better starting point might be something like a Kill-A-Watt to see what the voltage is when you experience issues.
 
I'll reiterate the same as I said before, and as @gingerbee and @JD are implying, it probably won't matter, these devices you're trying to give 'clean' power to are AC to DC devices; they actually don't care, within (very) broad limits of course. By nature they're inherently less prone to care about AC voltage, even if it's a 'dirty' modified square-sine wave, or a 'pure' sine wave. Most good Dc power supplies have line filtering built in as well.

I deal with this stuff daily as my job working with some very sensitive medical and laboratory electronics. I still firmly believe this is a poor cable or over-length cable causing the issue. A UPS will not solve anything here, except drain your wallet of cash.

Edit: this is also the reason most power bricks list a range of both voltage and frequency inputs. They're designed to not care and just take whatever you throw at them.
 
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