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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

At a glance it almost looks like you should lower your purge and include a prime tower. I found with the bit of multicolor stuff I have done the prime tower better avoids well voids and bleeding than relying strictly on purge.

This is WITH a prime tower, it seems to do best with a prime tower and max purge from black and clear with at least the bleeding part.
 
I'm going to try this one.......



Holy crap though.... that first plate looks like it's designed to fail. (I'm trying it on the cool plate in the hopes that adhesion on the taller parts won't be an issue) :)

edit: Initial layer looks like it went down properly.

1767467815050.webp


Worked like a charm. A bit tricky regulating the speed while using a cordless drill/screwdriver, but it works well and distributes the filament across the width of the roll.

I wasn't sure if I could just tape the rfid tag onto the new roll so I put it back on the original and left the tag in place. Hopefully I won't have any more issues with this roll not wanting to feed into the AMS correctly.
 
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xentr_thread_starter
Have 2 rolls of same filament in AMS If there is a issue with 1 roll not feeding, why can't the printer use the other roll? Pretty ridiculous IMO.

Almost as dumb as not being to resume a print with a similar but different colour.
 
xentr_thread_starter
I've been able to do this before recently, I told it to use the same spot and it assumed it was the same colour.
The problem it needs manual intervention.


Today I tore apart my 2 DIY Klipper CoreXY machines :(. One of them was built 100%. Just needed a Klipper config written. The other was complete minus assembling the gantry. Problem was they both shared the same Z gantry design I thought should work, but it just didn't. It was almost impossible to level (should only need to be done once). Doubly so since they were enclosed and I couldn't reach the required parts. I hadn't touched either printer in over 3 years. So time to move on.

In the next couple weeks I may try to fix my Prusa MK3S. :unsure:
 
Well have the new hotend in place, and ran a PID calibration test but didn't try to print anything... honestly tempted to grab a BTT Eddy Duo and replace the firmware seeing how much faster an eddy current bed "probing" is. The BTT one suposedly works on the K1 series printers that have a CFS, where the Cartographer variant is supposedly missing some firmware to support the CFS.
 

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