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Rants etc.....

xentr_thread_starter
ipaine said:
At this point they are waiting on manufacturer and not sure if full replacement or if they will be able to just swap out the control board. I men it should be doable, but you never know.

And back to the other rant of the switch and outlet.

Just taking a quick look before I have to head out briefly but this is what it looks like in the switch.

View attachment 45118

Now from the quick look am I right in thinking the easy way would be to just completely bypass the switch? Just take the hots off switch and connect them and put a blank plate on. Of course then I am stuck with a sensor light but I mean that isn't that bad of an option either.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Looks like it's a straight up single pole switch. If it were me I'd take the chance and just tie them together if you absolutely have to use that outlet for your freezer.

I'm assuming the light is a ceiling light? Maybe one of the wireless remote switches like this one?

 
sswilson said:
Looks like it's a straight up single pole switch. If it were me I'd take the chance and just tie them together if you absolutely have to use that outlet for your freezer.

I'm assuming the light is a ceiling light? Maybe one of the wireless remote switches like this one?

Click to expand...
Yea we really do have to use that outlet, not going to be daisy chaining extension cords for the freezer.

But that is a good idea you sent, and actually more for the laundry room since the mrs has already complained it only has the pull chain light. Between that or just using a motion sensing bulb, this will work easily enough. I mean I already have the blank plate, and everything else needed for tying them together.
 
I would check the light and outlet first see what wiring is there and if any of it is hot when the light is off

Electricity doesn't need to go to the switch first. But based on what's there you might be out of luck.

If it was going to the light or outlet first chances are there would be half as much wiring at the switch itself
 
My wife and I, at considerable expense, have invested in software and training to make our business as streamlined as possible to make tracking hours, materials, photos, and notes for assigned jobs as easy as possible. Operating within the trades space is difficult no matter how much is invested.

2 months later the 2nd year still isn't tracking his jobs, taking before and after photos
ipaine said:
At this point they are waiting on manufacturer and not sure if full replacement or if they will be able to just swap out the control board. I men it should be doable, but you never know.

And back to the other rant of the switch and outlet.

Just taking a quick look before I have to head out briefly but this is what it looks like in the switch.

View attachment 45118

Now from the quick look am I right in thinking the easy way would be to just completely bypass the switch? Just take the hots off switch and connect them and put a blank plate on. Of course then I am stuck with a sensor light but I mean that isn't that bad of an option either.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Just use a marrette and tie them together.
 
xentr_thread_starter
Having a UPS on your NAS to prevent unsafe shutdowns = a pretty good idea.... wondering why your NAS went into a parity check after you had a power bump and then realising you've plugged your NAS into the surge-protection-only side of the UPS, not so ideal....... :rolleyes:

(And no... it hasn't been like that all along, I tested the bloody setup when I first got the UPS. I had taken stuff offline and mucked about with plugs & cables while troubleshooting the networking issues I had a couple of weeks back).
 
I know that pain. When I pluggued my new nvr, I choose the wrong side of the ups, and wondered why it did not shutdown gracefully :(
After a few tests, I pointed myself in the mirror for shame.
 
The non backups outlets I actually find handy. What I do in the rack is anything with redundant PSU I set one on battery and one on surge only. Then if power goes out it still has power but only 1 PSU is energized.

I actually get email alerts when that happens.
 
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