System Light Dark

xentr_theme_editor

xentr_page_setup xentr_appearance xentr_sidebar

  • xentr_page_width

    xentr_toggle_page_width

    xentr_page_width_description

    xentr_color_pickers

    xentr_toggle_color_picker

    xentr_toggle_color_picker_description

    xentr_typography

    xentr_select_the_font_you_want_to_use

    xentr_node_layout

    xentr_grid_layout

    xentr_grid_layout_description

  • Style variation

    xentr_select_the_style_variation_you_want_to_use
    System Light Dark

  • xentr_sidebar

    xentr_toggles_sidebar

    xentr_sidebar_description

    xentr_sticky_sidebar

    xentr_sticky_sidebar_description
    xentr_sidebar_position
    Left
    Right
  • Please do not post any links until you have 3 posts as they will automatically be rejected to prevent SPAM. Many words are also blocked due to being used in SPAM Messages. Thanks!

Rants etc.....

lowfat said:
Someone selling an amplifier for $200 in Edmonton. Have a coworker there that can pick up for me. Message seller asking if they'll take $175. "You can have it for $180 cash". They want to meet in front of RCMP, sure. So get coworker to message them for a time. They seem friendly enough on arrival. But they are saying it is $200 cash. Coworker tells them he was told seller agreed to $180. Then they start freaking out. Telling coworker I lied and they didn't agree to anything. Coworker goes back to his vehicle to 'get the money' and he calls me. I send him the screenshot were they agreed to $180. So coworker shows seller the screenshot. "That isn't the same amplfier. I've already sold that one. " Still freaking out. Coworker tell them to eff themselves and probably a bunch of other stuff then leaves. Um what, TBH glad it went sideways as he wouldn't have had any idea if it was a different amplifier than the one I wanted.
Click to expand...
the old bait and switch
 
My shower door has been partly broken since I bought the place five years ago, it doesn't close properly since the door doesn't stay square. I've taken the door apart and tried to fix it a couple times with little result so I finally decided to take the whole mount, frame and everything apart, clean and try to reseat them.

Sadly the crappy plastic mounts meant it's a no-go. So I pulled the frame off and am making due with a rod and curtain for now.

The annoying part is that the dimensions are a bit odd so there's no replacement surround and door I can find that fits, so I'm likely going to have to demo that whole shower 'room' of the ensuite, put kerby or cement board in, waterproof and tile the whole thing. Sigh.
 
FreeKnight said:
My shower door has been partly broken since I bought the place five years ago, it doesn't close properly since the door doesn't stay square. I've taken the door apart and tried to fix it a couple times with little result so I finally decided to take the whole mount, frame and everything apart, clean and try to reseat them.

Sadly the crappy plastic mounts meant it's a no-go. So I pulled the frame off and am making due with a rod and curtain for now.

The annoying part is that the dimensions are a bit odd so there's no replacement surround and door I can find that fits, so I'm likely going to have to demo that whole shower 'room' of the ensuite, put kerby or cement board in, waterproof and tile the whole thing. Sigh.
Click to expand...
I'd buy a firebglass base. Then I'd use green board drywall and mapelasic HPG. The HPG is roll on rubber membrane and has a longer warranty than kurdi, it's cheaper and easier than the kurdi matting for the walls and less painful to install tile over.

I'd also replace your positemp valve while you've got the walls apart.
 
FreeKnight said:
My shower door has been partly broken since I bought the place five years ago, it doesn't close properly since the door doesn't stay square. I've taken the door apart and tried to fix it a couple times with little result so I finally decided to take the whole mount, frame and everything apart, clean and try to reseat them.

Sadly the crappy plastic mounts meant it's a no-go. So I pulled the frame off and am making due with a rod and curtain for now.

The annoying part is that the dimensions are a bit odd so there's no replacement surround and door I can find that fits, so I'm likely going to have to demo that whole shower 'room' of the ensuite, put kerby or cement board in, waterproof and tile the whole thing. Sigh.
Click to expand...
Don't use cement board. If anyone tells you you shoud or it's code they are stupid and don't have a clue.
 

Attachments

  • 20240907_164126.webp
    20240907_164126.webp
    88.4 KB · Views: 13
Durock/cement board is not the go-to anymore ?? I ask because after redoing the silicone/caulk on my tub shower I noticed that its plastic is getting brittle so I will have to redo the whole bathroom when I do it in a few years, I was planning on just doing the sink and toilet before finding the shower was getting bad, I mean it will be ok for a while but thinking I will get many more years out of it just won't happen.
 
Sorry I should have said fiberboard or whatever it's called. I remember Durock from back in the day, but know there's better stuff now that's presumably a lot lighter and less brittle..

I assume the stuff in your picture is that roll-on waterproofing membrane stuff (can't remember what it's called at the moment).

Edit: Whoops missed your first post. I had thought aquaboard wasn't recommended anymore tbh, but haven't looked into it in a while. Not a lot of showers building refineries and chemical plants ;).

I'll definitely replace the valves, shower heads, etc when I get to it. When you're using aquaboard and that roll on membrane, I assume you still mud and tape your aquaboard as normal, or do you just caulk the seam that'll be under the membrane?
 
O just dandy. Chewing a peice of gum and a crown fell out. And it took half the tooth with it. Work recently switched insurance providers and it sucks. It was previously $800 for normal stuff and $800 for cosmetics (ie crowns). Now it's just $800 combined. Crowns are $1000+lab fees. Plus the cost to buildup the tooth. So probably $500-800 out of pocket.

The thing was I was 'saving' my dental from this year to do a root canal. Plan was to do it near end of year and use next year's for a crown in January. So either I get it extracted or I'm going to be out of pocket for like $1500 next year.
 
gingerbee said:
Durock/cement board is not the go-to anymore ?? I ask because after redoing the silicone/caulk on my tub shower I noticed that its plastic is getting brittle so I will have to redo the whole bathroom when I do it in a few years, I was planning on just doing the sink and toilet before finding the shower was getting bad, I mean it will be ok for a while but thinking I will get many more years out of it just won't happen.
Click to expand...
It doesn't have to cement board if it's water proofed properly. The blue stuff in the photo is the HPG and I've never had a failure. The problem with cement board is it is very difficult to work with and nearly impossible to get it flat when the studs are perfect. It also falls apart when screws get too close to the edge. It's also impossible to trim and adjust if you don't get the cuts perfect, drywall doesn't have this problem. After the tile is done I will also paint this stuff around the shower valve, shower head outlet, and tub spout. You can water proof a cardboard box with this stuff.
 
Last edited:
FreeKnight said:
Sorry I should have said fiberboard or whatever it's called. I remember Durock from back in the day, but know there's better stuff now that's presumably a lot lighter and less brittle..

I assume the stuff in your picture is that roll-on waterproofing membrane stuff (can't remember what it's called at the moment).

Edit: Whoops missed your first post. I had thought aquaboard wasn't recommended anymore tbh, but haven't looked into it in a while. Not a lot of showers building refineries and chemical plants ;).

I'll definitely replace the valves, shower heads, etc when I get to it. When you're using aquaboard and that roll on membrane, I assume you still mud and tape your aquaboard as normal, or do you just caulk the seam that'll be under the membrane?
Click to expand...
I use fiber tape or mesh tape with thinset where ever there's tile, and drywall mud where ever there is paint. Like I say, the HPG roll on stuff comes with a 25 year warranty. 2 coats in the corners and along the top of the tub, one to two coats everywhere else, 3 coats if it's a steam shower or shower base that's going to be tiled. This stuff will water proof anything.

www.mapei.com

Mapelastic HPG

Flexible Waterproofing and Crack-Isolation Membrane Mapelastic HPG is a ready-to-use, highly flexible, liquid acrylic waterproofing membrane for installation under ceramic tile or stone on residential and light commercial interior floors and walls. Applied with a roller, trowel or brush,…
www.mapei.com www.mapei.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

xentr_legal_notice_title

xentr_legal_notice_description

Back
Top