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Sound deadening the car. And a few audio upgrades.

Holy crap Lowfat I mean I thought the sound deadening was extreme but then you add in all the audio wizardry, Just wow cant wait to see it done good luck on working out all the bugs, you really do take things to the next level and the quality of your work is to die for.
 
Holy crap Lowfat I mean I thought the sound deadening was extreme but then you add in all the audio wizardry, Just wow cant wait to see it done good luck on working out all the bugs, you really do take things to the next level and the quality of your work is to die for.
Mad scientist hard at work.
 
xentr_thread_starter
Next will be the fun problems like the rear view mirror vibrating out of place
Is that actually an issue on newer vehicles? I have a 12" sub in the old minivan getting 300WRMS sent to it and never had any issues.


Well I am done w/ the sub box. The 'carpet' I used was terrible. Literally just a piece of felt. And I hated doing it. If I ever make a sub box for a vehicle again I won't be carpeting it.

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The seam here actually looks ok.
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But the back just looks terrible. Since it is felt it stretches so its hard to get the seams to line up. And even still the seem is so visible compared to actual speaker carpet. Thankfully this will never be seen.:sick:

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The dual 10s on 600w RMS monoblock very easily make mine point at the floor but also 20 years old. 10+ years of having subs in the vehicle. Mirror is honestly partly worn out
 
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Work is dead so I start working on the door speakers, again.

I add some leads to the tweeters. The crossovers I have are from JL C3-650's. Should be similar enough eh?
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Literally the only place I can find to 'mount' the crossover. And there are wires underneath it so I can't screw it in place. So I used some VHB on the back and secured it w/ some polymide tape. Test speaker. Seems decent.
:ROFLMAO:
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Move on to the other door. Get everything installed. No woofer. Seems if I press down on the woofer connections on the crossover it worked. So I double check connections. Measure for AC voltage across the pins, 0. Hmm. I know it worked when I pulled them from the old van. So I take them inside to start measuring the components to see what is the issue. I can't get it out of the case. They used a huge blob of adhesive on the back of the PCB. I end up destroying the casing to get it out. Measure everything, its all good. WTF. Put it back in car, same issue. As I'm handling it the woofer starts to crackle. It is the damn jumper for the woofer gain. I spent a couple hours troubleshooting and breaking the case over a damn jumper.
:mad:

I can't find any jumpers so I just unsolder the pin and just bridged it w/ solder. I'll never adjust the woofer gain anyways. Don't have a case now so I have to get creative :p. So I just wrap the PCB in polymide tape. Then secure it like the other. TBH I think it is even more secure.

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It is 34C out and misting myself only goes so far. So not sure if I'll get the amp in tonight. Plus I'll have to run some bigger gauge power wire.
 
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Installed the Hertz amp this morning. Absolute world of difference. No more distortion. BUT I am having the same issue where the right speakers are louder. Literally the only thing I can see being the issue is the level converter, which is the only new part in the whole setup. I think if I play white noise, I should be able to measure the inputs to the level converter and see if AC voltage is the same. That way I know if its before the converter or not.
 
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Well not good news. I measured voltage at the line out converter (LOC) and sure enough voltage on passenger is absolutely lower. So do some googling and it is a thing likely done intentional by Harman (infotainment manufacturer).


I'll guess I'll try the dash speakers and see if they get a full signal and are balanaced. Probably would be the easiest solution I can think of. Otherwise I need to shell out a few hundred on a LOC that can actively correct these issues. :(

EDIT: Dash speakers had same issue. Looks like I need to shell out more money. :(
 
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Installed the Hertz amp this morning. Absolute world of difference. No more distortion. BUT I am having the same issue where the right speakers are louder. Literally the only thing I can see being the issue is the level converter, which is the only new part in the whole setup. I think if I play white noise, I should be able to measure the inputs to the level converter and see if AC voltage is the same. That way I know if its before the converter or not.
Well not good news. I measured voltage at the line out converter (LOC) and sure enough voltage on passenger is absolutely lower. So do some googling and it is a thing likely done intentional by Harman (infotainment manufacturer).


I'll guess I'll try the dash speakers and see if they get a full signal and are balanaced. Probably would be the easiest solution I can think of. Otherwise I need to shell out a few hundred on a LOC that can actively correct these issues. :(

EDIT: Dash speakers had same issue. Looks like I need to shell out more money. :(
Are the right speakers louder or quieter? I can see them being slightly louder by default so that the driver's seat is the optimum listening spot.

Do none of your control devices have any kind of balance option?
 

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