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3D Printer / CNC discussion thread

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Use a 3d printed cat litter sifter as I use spruce pellets for my litter. Broke it this morning. Go to print another on the Creality K1. It just jams non stop w/ PETG. Try PLA and I can't get enough bed adhesion. No slicer yet allows lower travel speed for first layer, which is the problem for this part since it has about 500 retract moves on the first layer. Try to print on Prusa and it will take 9 bloody hours. Start it anyways, but cancelled after 2 hours since it had a lifted corner.

Go back to the K1, swap back to PETG...Nope its jammed BAD. Since I got to take it apart I might as well swap to the new version of the extruder / hotend that they sent me (paid $2 including shipping including 1KG of filament and a camera). FMMFL. 4 hours later and the printer is still down. I'm not sure I've been more frustrated ever in my life.

Install the new extruder still can't feed. Take it apart again. Cannot clear the jam from the hotend. Get the nozzle out but I can't get the CNC Kitchen Volcano adapter out, its seized in there good. But I cleared the jam. So I'll just reinstall the old hot end.... Nope, can't find the damn CHT nozzle. FML. Install new hotend then. Put it together. Then I find the CHT nozzle inside the printer. I tipped the damn thing upside down to make sure it wasn't in there. But somehow it was. O well I'm not taking it apart again.

Can't feed the damn filament through. WTF. Wasted my entire evening.. :mad:
 
Started piecing together the LowRider CNC V3 I ordered. Appear to be missing 2 pieces so need to get that sorted out.
 
Pics or it didn't happen. :p I'd like to see what you're doing and get your impression of the build process.
Things like "I suggest thread locker or glue" in the instructions is more of a do it now or regret it later because if that nuts comes loose you have to take off 5 things to get at it and re-seat it.

I forgot that I opted for the 1in pipe brackets so the conduit I have cut is useless. I need to hit up a metal shop tomorrow and get the proper thickness. If this works well I intend to do some like metal cutting so the larger pipe made sense at the time.
 

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I was not at all pleased with the leather headband on the Audeze Maxwell's, so I found a design on Thingiverse (albiet for a different model), and modified it to work for the Maxwell's size and mounting mechanism. I used TPU90. 1st try and nailed it haha, it fits perfect, spreads the load out better, has more cooling, and is all around more comfortable. Also, the headphones dont slip off my head now when I look down! WIN. I just signed up for a Thingiverse account so I cant post the remix for 24hrs, but it'll be up soon!
 

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Looks pretty sweet! Did you print it @ 100%? How about orientation on the print surface... any consideration given to how the layers were printed for max strength?

I haven't done a lot of printing with TPU, but bought a roll for testing purposes and liked the results for the few projects I tried.
 
I did 20% infill however when I checked the slicer, it was only 1 layer of infill Lol. I had to orient it at 45deg to fit my print-bed (Anycubic Vyper). See below for settings. I'm no 3D printing wizard either so I just used the generic TPU95a setting in Cura and it seems to work fine for the TPU90 I have.
 

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Switch display 1.jpg

A switch display/test box. Currently printing up a second one for the RK branded switches.


Designed as a CNC switch box and everything seems to fit together well so I suppose it would work well if a person wanted to wire up the switches.
 

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