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this is the unofficial odd thoughts, observations and random question thread

Epoxy is hard enough that it won't compress when you try to put the screws in after it's cured. Drilling and gluing in a 1/4 or 3/8 dowel would be the best option.
 
sswilson said:
I've also seen suggestions for glued toothpicks forced into place w/ a small diameter nail.
Click to expand...
I just put 1 or 2 in the hole and drove the screw in, don't recall using glue. The other 2 screws in the hinge were tight though, it was just 1 that wasn't so I didn't think it was a big deal.
 
JD said:
I just put 1 or 2 in the hole and drove the screw in, don't recall using glue. The other 2 screws in the hinge were tight though, it was just 1 that wasn't so I didn't think it was a big deal.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this is a really old door hinge (has common brass screws... :) ) with all 6 of the screw holes blown out. It's going to need to be done right. :)

I'll probably end up going with the dowels even though it feels/sounds like a lot more work than it should be.
 
sswilson said:
Any recommendations on a "wood filler" product that can be used to fill door hinge screw holes so that I can drill a pilot hole and have it take the screws securely?

Sounds like the most recommended solution is to drill out a hole big enough to accept wooden dowels and then glue those into place.... that sounds like a lot more work than finding something like an epoxy filler that would work..........
Click to expand...
Dowels would be the best option. The problem might be finding a good hardwood dowel that's also accurately sized. Imported dowels might be metric size or poorly size and the drill size is Imperial. Test drill in a scrap of wood and check.
Bevel the dowel edge end that goes into the wood work. I use a V carving tool to cut a few shallow grooves along the side for air/glue to escape. Can use a hand saw to cut the grooves as well. Once glued in and the glue is dry, predrill for the screw size/length. Tapered drill if you have it.
 
SugarJ said:
If labeled as a gift and valued at say $25 (which is undervalued, of course) I don't think there'd be any issues.
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Today, the recipient said she rec'd the package today (unopened), no duty applied.

From my earlier research, it appears that Chicago is a major nexus for parcel post from Canada. That's where it cleared customs according to Canada Post. So I expect that small packages from Canada would like funnel there as well.

For commercial shipments, it would depend on the US port of entry via common carriers like UPS, DHL, FedEx, CanPar, Purolator, etc. and require a US Custom's broker for clearance.
 
Is it a bad idea to just refresh a 2/3 full 8 yr old tub of drywall goop?

Didn't have to add any water, just gave it a good stir with an electric drill + a paint stir attachment and it seems fine. Just had to remove the large hard chunks which fell in from the side.

Oh, and while I'm at it, how bad can these big tubs of interior paint be????


It's super cheap at costco when compared to buying by the gallon from the hardware store?
 
sswilson said:
Is it a bad idea to just refresh a 2/3 full 8 yr old tub of drywall goop?

Didn't have to add any water, just gave it a good stir with an electric drill + a paint stir attachment and it seems fine. Just had to remove the large hard chunks which fell in from the side.

Oh, and while I'm at it, how bad can these big tubs of interior paint be????


It's super cheap at costco when compared to buying by the gallon from the hardware store?
Click to expand...
I tend to buy the pails of primer even with a paint and primer in 1 then any tinted gallon cans after that tend to cover a lot better and go further.


I don't recall if that one is but some of the primers are also tintable making the top coat colors stretch even that much further. (instead of multiple gallons of tinted paints).

Mud I would expect is fine as long as it didn't grow mould
 
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