discussion Sound deadening the car. And a few audio upgrades.

[lowfat]

Could it be a voltage diff cause by extra device on the tap causing the CEL? Also, are you going to start blasting Taylor Swift as you drive around the hood?

I assuming it has to be detecting current or something on that fuse. Not sure why.



Got my 3d printer working again yesterday. So printed out the new speaker adapters. Proud to say that all door skins fit now w/ speakers installed.

Pic w/ the front doors w/ the new speakers installed.


Had to take out rear seats / panels in order to run wires for the rear dash cam. Found a comment on a YT vid from someone who sound deadens vehicles for a job. He had suggested stuffing the rear 1/4 panels with foam. Since you can't really reach between inner and outer panels to apply the butyl. So I stuffed the snot out of them.

 

[lowfat]

Been playing w/ the DSPs and finally figuring stuff out.

An example of the config of the dash speakers. Input to a basic filter, which just eliminates hiss caused by the DSP itself. Then to the crossovers. which are set to 48dB/octave ( ) outputting only 600Hz to 5000Hz. Then a delay. Once I do the measurement sweeps plugging in the numbers will allow me to get the speakers perfectly in phase. Which will fix perceived imaging as well as help w/ wave cancellation. Then an alias, which just allows me to continue further down while it still looking neat.

Next is where the magic happens. Once I do the meaurement sweeps w/ Room EQ Wizard, I can throw in the frequency curve file it generates and the DSP will try to correct its issues. These DSPs and this software are so cool.


Took my first measurements tonight w/ REW. This is with the crossovers disabled to see what the actual frequency response was. I was using onboard audio on the laptop as I didn't think I had another option. But I do actually have a DAC I can try in the future. Was way too hot in the vehicle as I didn't want the car running to skew the output. Will have to finish this on in the morning / cloudy day sometime.

 

[lowfat]

Not happy w/ the car audio at all so far. Not sure if it is the amp or what. The tweeters sound terrible. They have distortion even with the crossover set very high on the amp. And the passenger side door midrange is substantially louder than the driver side. This is w/o the DSP connected so that isn't the issue.

I bought some other used gear today. Will swap out my old amps for the Hertz 5-channel. Will ditch the rear mid-bass speakers. Swap out the front door speakers for some better ones i got today. And decided to throw in a small sub.

So tonight I hooked up the sub to the Dayton Audio DATS V3 test system to get parameters in order to design a proper enclosure.


Then I enter this info in to WinISD, an app that show the performance of a enclosure for the speaker. Thinking on a 0.9 c.ft ported enclosure as I want it small as possible. Then a 18Hz high-pass filter @ 18Hz to prevent over-excursion when playing 20-30Hz. And a low-pass filter @ 100Hz so its only playing sub-bass. Estimated frequency response curve. Black is the ported enclosure. Blue is a sealed enclosure of the same size.

Graph showing the excursion of the subs in the enclosure w/ a 380W going to it. The limit on the sub is 15mm, so this will be safe.


And the group delay, which is is the delay between when the audio input and output. I have 20ms @ 40Hz, which I believe is pretty decent. You can see this is where a sealed enclosure actually benefits over a vented. Which is why people say sealed enclosures are quicker / punchy. But that should only really be an issue w/ prefabricated boxes which are not tuned @ all for the specific driver.


Now on to designing something up in Fusion 360.

 

[moocow]

I'm waiting for the day when you decide the ICE is too loud and swap it to EV.

 

[djbrad]

With all the hard work and hours you put in that car, I just hope you find the audio problem quickly, and then enjoy the ride!

 

[Izerous]

As a sanity check I'd work back to the start and hook speakers directly to the HU to make sure your getting a clean signal out before you start swapping amps and stuff around. Sucks to put in all that work to find out the origin was the problem.

 

[lowfat]

I'm waiting for the day when you decide the ICE is too loud and swap it to EV.

The engine isn't noticable on the highway. Just the road noise.

As a sanity check I'd work back to the start and hook speakers directly to the HU to make sure your getting a clean signal out before you start swapping amps and stuff around. Sucks to put in all that work to find out the origin was the problem.

I want the amp anyways for more power and to will be eliminating the 2nd amp. And I definitely didn't have the issues when I was running stock.

3d printing new front speaker adapters ATM. First one is printed and JB Welding it to elminate the air gaps. The yellow is HIPS and the blue is ABS. Forgot how amazing HIPS is to print. Will be using the 'new' JL speakers.


I have the crossovers from my old JL C3-650 components (blew tweeters). Should be pretty easy to slice in the crossovers to the 'new' coaxials.




Finished designing subwoofer enclosure. Taking in to account driver, port, and bracing displacement, it should be damn near exactly the 0.8 c.ft I was looking for.




Picture of the cross section of the port. Just under 30in long, 3.75in wide, and 2in deep. Projected max air velocity is 26.6m/s, which should be ok.


Cleaning up the work area today. Hoping to cut and work on the enclosure tomorrow.

 

[lowfat]

Making progress....slowly.

Port is made, glued together, and put in place. Almost 1KG of PETG filament. Next time I'll just make a basic one out of wood I think. It sucked making it.




And somehow I didn't notice it was in crooked. TBH I have no idea how this is possible. I used a square to draw the lines to cut. Only crooked by about 1.5mm so not too terrible.


Really hoping to get the rest together tonight and cut the hole for the speaker.

 

[chrisk]

Just scanned this thread...holy cow my knees, back, and patience are shot just looking at this. You have always been the meticulous type so I expected nothing less.

Sorry if I missed it...how much extra weight did the soundproofing add to the car? Was it enough to have any impact on things like fuel economy, etc?

I drive a 2020 Sorento and that thing is pretty quiet...a big difference for me though was the tires used. My old Pirellis were very quiet...I replaced the old Pirellis with new ones and 2/4 were bad from the factory, so I went with Michelin Defender2s and boy, did those tires add some new road noise. Hoping they get a little more quiet as they break in.

If you have the budget, check out some new tires. I would have suggested Pirelli P7 AS Plus 3 but I'm wary of them right now. Tire Rack will give you some ideas.

Friend of mine drives an Outback and it's loud too. We often go to lunch and over the winter his car was loud and we figured it was due to winter tires...he OEMs were put back on and still loud. I suggested an alignment check for him and that really helped in his case.

 

[lowfat]

Just scanned this thread...holy cow my knees, back, and patience are shot just looking at this. You have always been the meticulous type so I expected nothing less.

Sorry if I missed it...how much extra weight did the soundproofing add to the car? Was it enough to have any impact on things like fuel economy, etc?

I drive a 2020 Sorento and that thing is pretty quiet...a big difference for me though was the tires used. My old Pirellis were very quiet...I replaced the old Pirellis with new ones and 2/4 were bad from the factory, so I went with Michelin Defender2s and boy, did those tires add some new road noise. Hoping they get a little more quiet as they break in.

If you have the budget, check out some new tires. I would have suggested Pirelli P7 AS Plus 3 but I'm wary of them right now. Tire Rack will give you some ideas.

Friend of mine drives an Outback and it's loud too. We often go to lunch and over the winter his car was loud and we figured it was due to winter tires...he OEMs were put back on and still loud. I suggested an alignment check for him and that really helped in his case.

Probably about 100 pounds added. I still get amazing gas mileage. Over the last 10K km I've gotten 7.0 L / 100km.

I know the tires are an issue. But they only have about 3-4 / 32s of wear on them. I expect them to last at least next summer.