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3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )

lowfat

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Yup, i gotta find a way to repair them. I can't justify another 16h print + filament lol..
There are some that did a dual Z lead screw mod. 2 z steppers working in tandem.
1 Stepper but w/ 2 lead screws is what you really want. 2 steppers has a chance to become out of sync.

I'll grab a pic from one of my printers later on so show what I mean exactly.
 

lowfat

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@danmitch1

Here is how I did it on one of my printers.

MVIMG_20200225_140324 (Normal).jpgIMG_20200225_140304 (Normal).jpg

Found this for an Ender 5. Not exactly the same way as what i did as he isn't using gearing. But still better than 2 motors.

 

danmitch1

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@danmitch1

Here is how I did it on one of my printers.

View attachment 28262View attachment 28263

Found this for an Ender 5. Not exactly the same way as what i did as he isn't using gearing. But still better than 2 motors.

Oh wow! Serious setup man, nice one.
Im looking for a kit, can't seem to find it exactly. Most difficult to find seems to be those shafts on either side of the lead screw.

I like the belt setup you have, why not make a complicated machine mire complicated eh lol!
 

lowfat

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Oh wow! Serious setup man, nice one.
Im looking for a kit, can't seem to find it exactly. Most difficult to find seems to be those shafts on either side of the lead screw.

I like the belt setup you have, why not make a complicated machine mire complicated eh lol!
The linear / smooth rods? Definitely can get from Aliexpress. Getting exactly 390mm is a bit more difficult. Only found one seller and it would be about $20 for them shipped. If you buy 400mm and cut them down yourself it would probably be a lot cheaper. A Dremel w/ a reinforced cut off disk can cut them relatively easy.
 

danmitch1

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The linear / smooth rods?
Thats what they're called?! Well that makes things easier
Do you need to cut them?
Found this
Or more this
Just noticed the heatsink on your stepper motor, more things to upgrade ! Add a fan?
I wonder if these would be beneficial to the z axis, im noticing z banding even with the struts.
 
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sswilson

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Clamp unassembled.jpg

Reprinted this in PETG now that I've got a (slightly) better handle on getting quality prints and am happy to say that the threads turned out great without any need to work them in to get them cut. (This is the original image printed in PLA)

On another note... on the off chance anybody tries this print out for themselves... the clamp works a hell of a lot better if you glue/tape a rubber pad to the two surfaces which mate to the desk. Without the rubber the clamp has a tendency to flex a bit and moves off of a flush install with the desktop edge.

edit: Just noticed there's a new Cura version out there as well.....
 
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lowfat

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I downloaded the Cura 4.5 beta last week as I saw they finally added a bridging over infill. IMO this is one of the most important things to me. I haven't actually tried it tho.
 

danmitch1

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View attachment 28270

Reprinted this in PETG now that I've got a (slightly) better handle on getting quality prints and am happy to say that the threads turned out great without any need to work them in to get them cut. (This is the original image printed in PLA)

On another note... on the off chance anybody tries this print out for themselves... the clamp works a hell of a lot better if you glue/tape a rubber pad to the two surfaces which mate to the desk. Without the rubber the clamp has a tendency to flex a bit and moves off of a flush install with the desktop edge.

edit: Just noticed there's a new Cura version out there as well.....
Good to hear, would you prefer PETG over PLA? its the mid point between PLA and ABS no.. like quality print and strength wise?Im running low on filament and was thinking (since my support arm cracked) that maybe I should get something a bit more durable. Then again I want to print nice things and durrable things ( I want my cake and eat it too ).

I noticed you have the same Z banding going on that I have.. Its actually the motive behind printing the extruder stepper arm and bed support. I also bought a flexible coupler that is comming in the mail today. The bed support helped but very minimally, ive been reading that the coupler has alot to do with the issue... we shall see.


I downloaded the Cura 4.5 beta last week as I saw they finally added a bridging over infill. IMO this is one of the most important things to me. I haven't actually tried it tho.
What is bridging over infill?
 

sswilson

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I personally don't see much downside to printing PETG vice PLA. It does cost a bit more (and apparently doesn't seem to go on sale anywhere near as often as PLA) but once the bed is dialed in it seems to print about the same.

The only real downside I'm seeing to PETG is that it's damn near impossible to remove thin layers from the stock Creality print surface. Printed parts aren't overly difficult to remove, but skirts (and I'm assuming brims if you use them) are a major PITA especially if you're under-extruding a bit.
 

lcdguy

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yeah, i killed a print surface once with petg when it was far to close. It also depends on your application for the part.

If it's something where you want durability, environmental resistance (ie: outside install). Your probably better going with petg and/or abs. Having said that there are "strong pla's" but i have no experience with those filaments. If it's something needing better detail (like a model) you might be better off using pla as it's very forgiving and easy to work with but doesn't stand up to things like weather and uv very well.

I used to print in pla exclusively until i gave petg a go and really liked it and switch over to using as my main filament of choice.

You can also looking into annealing pla prints to increase strength. But there are a bunch of caveats that go along with doing that :)

Currently printing a case for a electronics kit in petg :)

A flexible print surface might help with the removal but i know that isn't always an option.
 

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