I don't have a specific reference at hand, but it seems to me that I've seen more than one reference suggesting that PETG is better when close tolerances are needed (like the threads in that previous part).
3D Printer Essentials? (Or maybe better named as "Adventures in Newb 3D Printing" )
- Thread starter sswilson
- Start date
for strength can't really beat abs, but it can be a really finicky material to work with. a heated bed and enclosure are a must.
PLA is the strongest, more rigid and obviously the easiest to print. It has a lower impact strength and poor heat resistance. It also does very poorly if used long term w/ force applied to it, the part will eventually fail. Relatively chemically resistant.
ABS has a higher impact strength because it isn't as rigid as PLA. But it also isn't as strong. Heat deflection temp of around 104C, which is about 50C higher than PLA. Needs to be printed in a high ambient temperature as it tends to contract if cooled to quickly, causing parts to warp and cause poor layer adhesion.
PETG is kind of in the middle. It can flex a lot compared to the others, so it will generally stretch / bend instead of cracking on an impact. It is very strong but not as rigid as PLA. Heat deflection of around 75C. Does very well w/ a constant force applied to it. It can be very hard to tune a slicer profile to print PETG as its very oozy.
ABS has a higher impact strength because it isn't as rigid as PLA. But it also isn't as strong. Heat deflection temp of around 104C, which is about 50C higher than PLA. Needs to be printed in a high ambient temperature as it tends to contract if cooled to quickly, causing parts to warp and cause poor layer adhesion.
PETG is kind of in the middle. It can flex a lot compared to the others, so it will generally stretch / bend instead of cracking on an impact. It is very strong but not as rigid as PLA. Heat deflection of around 75C. Does very well w/ a constant force applied to it. It can be very hard to tune a slicer profile to print PETG as its very oozy.
danmitch1
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- Dec 15, 2007
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Ok so Creality REALLY cheaped out on their screws!!! I went to install my flexible coupler last night and I stripped one of the hex nuts on the lead screw coupler. No matter what the thing would not co-operate.. I spent 2 hours trying to get it loose and ended up scrapping the coupler... I had to remove the the stepper motor and then remove the lead screw in order to get proper access to the coupler screw. I had to drill out the screw in the end. I also had trouble with another one a few weeks ago on the timing pulley shaft, I thought it was an isolated incident... I guess not. what a major PITA!
To add insult to injury, I ordered the wrong size coupler lol. Now my machine is completely down until the correct size coupler comes.
To add insult to injury, I ordered the wrong size coupler lol. Now my machine is completely down until the correct size coupler comes.
What did you strip? The grub screw? What were you using for a driver? I've found a lot of 1.5mm hex drivers are slightly undersized. Both multi-bit sets I've tried had the same issue. Which will cause the grub screws to strip. I keep a Husky muti-hex set specifically for the 1.5mm as its the only one I have that is actually the correct size.
The grub screw or set screw is the one without a head on it. https://www.google.com/search?q=grub+screw
danmitch1
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- Dec 15, 2007
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Oh right ok, it is one of the set screws but has a socket cap head which i believe is an m3
Here, like these
